Jump to content

2014 Silverado Leaking Water

Billyssilver2014

Recommended Posts

Billyssilver2014 Enthusiast

Billyssilver2014

Posted
Posted

post-166504-148347385939_thumb.jpgpost-166504-148347386927_thumb.jpg

Has anyone had to deal with this issue yet with their 2014 truck? Logic tells me that it's got to be the XM antenna not sealed off right and water leaks in just above the driver side sun visor. Please let me know if you've experienced this and what you did to remedy the problem. Thanks in advance.

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

post-166504-148347385939_thumb.jpg

post-166504-148347386927_thumb.jpg

post-166504-148347385939_thumb.jpg

post-166504-148347386927_thumb.jpg

post-166504-148347385939_thumb.jpg

post-166504-148347386927_thumb.jpg

GMCustomerService Senior Enthusiast

GMCustomerService

Posted
Posted

Billyssilver2014,

 

We recognize your frustrations regarding this situation and certainly do not want this to be your lasting impression of our brand. Have you brought this leaking concern to your dealership’s attention? If you would like, we would be happy to contact them on your behalf and provide an additional layer of support on our end. Please send us a private message along with your full contact information, VIN, and preferred dealership if this is something of interest to you.

 

Best,

 

Anthony

GM Customer Care

  • 2 weeks later...
BuddyS Enthusiast

BuddyS

Posted
Posted

see entire thread and post 126: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/158522-water-leak-in-the-roof/page-9

attachicon.gif20170103_135613.jpgattachicon.gif20170103_140219.jpg
Has anyone had to deal with this issue yet with their 2014 truck? Logic tells me that it's got to be the XM antenna not sealed off right and water leaks in just above the driver side sun visor. Please let me know if you've experienced this and what you did to remedy the problem. Thanks in advance.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
bono83 New Member

bono83

Posted
Posted

I had water dripping from the dash onto the floor on the left side of the driver's floorboard. Because I have 49,000 miles on my truck, my dealer wouldn't look at it under warranty. I was forced to diagnose the leak myself. I found my XM antenna was the source of the leak. The water ran down the antenna's wire, across the headliner, down the inside of the A-pillar trim, through the dashboard, onto the parking brake pedal, then to the floor (or my leg). When I took it apart, I could tell it had been leaking for awhile. There is a metal 3 prong clamp that bolts to the underside of the roof to hold the antenna down. That clip was rusty. I also found the airbag behind the A-pillar trim was wet. Seems like a safety hazard to me. I'm concerned about future problems with any electrical components that got wet in the A-pillar and dashboard.

 

I paid just under $72.00 for a new antenna, installed it, and tested for leaks with a hose. Dry for now. Hopefully I get more than 3 years out of this one. It didn't appear any different than the old one.

 

I emailed GM customer service expressing my dissatisfaction, but in summary, all I got was a sorry for the inconvenience, but your truck is out of warranty. What I really want is some confidence that this will not be a recurring problem with my truck. I'm a faithful GM customer who never owned anything but GM. I currently own 5 GM vehicles, but I'm loosing faith.

 

My last truck was a 20 year old 94 Silverado with 215,000 miles. It had lots of rust, but the interior never, ever leaked. I expect more from a 3 year old $40,000 plus truck. I understand warranty time limits, but I also know enough about cars and trucks that this is not something that should fail in 3 years/49,000 miles.

 

Best wishes in repairing yours.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 549 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...