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03 Yukon Denali front differential noise/adj tab broken

hoobie
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hoobie New Member

hoobie

Posted
Posted

Hello all,

 

I been hearing a bad bearing noise in my front end somewhere. thought it was hub but was wrong. noticed that my drivers side axel had some decent play going into the differential as well as the oil seal leaking. So I got a new seal and carrier bearing to see if I could change them out to see if that would help/fix problem. After pulling the seal I found the tab from the auto adjuster broken off. I didn't know what to do from there and didn't allow the time to do so I put new seal on with fresh gear oil and here I am...still have problem.

 

anyone know how to go about fixing the broke adjuster thing.

 

Thanks

VikingTrad3r Enthusiast

VikingTrad3r

Posted
Posted

2006 denali xl here.

 

i did the same thing.

 

u need a new lock tab, they are cheap at local dealer.

 

unfortunatly u need to buy the special socket tool that sets the preload on the carrier.

 

i *think* there is a needle bearing in the diff case that the driverside input shaft tides through before it gets to the carrier bearing. not sure its name. i think this may be my issue because i still have the noise (only when i step on throttle) and i still have a super wobbly input shaft to the diff on the driver side as you describe. i had this before i replaced carriers and still do after.

hoobie New Member

hoobie

Posted
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Posted

I meant to say that I wanted to change the axel seal and needle bearing not carrier bearing. I left the old Needle bearing in and just changed the axel seal when I noticed the tab was broken. Has anyone changed the tab for the auto adjuster or know if the differential has to opened up or the process to do so?

VikingTrad3r Enthusiast

VikingTrad3r

Posted
Posted

hi there hoobie. before you crack open the front diff, make sure you have your parts on hand including enough of that yellow paint with a brush so you can set the preload. The most important thing is that you have the spanner wrench tool for this job. Otherwise you may not be able to set the preload for the bearing after you install a new one. That happened to me. I got all that way and then did not have the correct spanner tool thinking I could improvise. It maybe possible to improvise but I couldn't figure out away. I did as best I could which wasn't good enough and I now have to do the same job a second time after ordering the spanner tool from Amazon.

 

The price for this tool is effing ridiculous. My plan is to use it for my diff and then resell it to others on this forum who need the same one. If I can make half of my money back on the tool that's great, and then the next owner can resell it for the same amount and we can just mail this tool to each other as required.

 

here it is if you are in Canada. http://www.zoneoffroad.ca/tools/spanner-wrenches/yt-a08-spanner-tool-for-gm-8-25-ifs/

 

here it is if you are in the United States. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0078U9Y3Y/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EDK43E3P40RFXZNFX6B9

osteo16 Enthusiast

osteo16

Posted
Posted

Tackles this last month... Changed my front diff fluid, had been making noise.. Well, it looked like antiseize pouring out.. So I watched a few videos online, ordered my bearing kit for front diff ($160) not bad. Had to get adjuster lock tab at dealer ($5).. The I went to autozone and looted their free tool catalog.. Torque wrenches, bearing pullers, bearing/seal sets, ect... Grab some RtV while your there.. Anyway, getting the diff out was a little pain but once out it only took a few hours to get everything tore down and reassembled.. Borrow a dial indicator to measure back lash and didn't use any special wrench to adjust preload, just carefully used a punch and mallet to rotate the adjusters, they have teeth on them you can tap against to rotate it.. I'm not sure what the backlash was but I believe I set it about 6-7 thousandths.. At the yoke.. And I didn't change the yoke bearing or crush sleeve. I felt they were fine and didn't want to tackle that because I didn't have a big enough impact wrench on hand.. So, it's doable, takes a day, but to change out that adjuster I'm pretty sure you gotta drop out the diff...

  • 2 years later...
Billyz731 New Member

Billyz731

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have the same problem going on with truck as well. I got the adjustment lock and now I don’t know what to do. How do you set the preload and set back lash on an 01 Chevy Silverado 1500? Thanks in advance. 

Edited by Billyz731
Billyz731 New Member

Billyz731

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have the same problem going on with truck as well. I got the adjustment lock and now I don’t know what to do. How do you set the preload and set back lash on an 01 Chevy Silverado 1500? Thanks in advance. 

Edited by Billyz731
  • 1 year later...
Tan7 New Member

Tan7

Posted
Posted
On 1/19/2017 at 1:35 PM, hoobie said:

I meant to say that I wanted to change the axel seal and needle bearing not carrier bearing. I left the old Needle bearing in and just changed the axel seal when I noticed the tab was broken. Has anyone changed the tab for the auto adjuster or know if the differential has to opened up or the process to do so?

How did u know or see if the tab was broken? My stub shaft is wobbly more than normal and already replaced needle bearing and new seal. Just started leaking again after maybe 5k miles. Any ideas? Maybe new stub shaft? Truck has 316k original miles. 4wd also works in hi and lo

  • 3 years later...
Stuckon50s New Member

Stuckon50s

Posted
Posted

Going to do the same job. You pull the stub axle by taking out the six axle flange bolts, and slide axle out of the way. Pull the stub axle out by prying  on on side and tap on the other side while tapping on the flange. Oil seal is behind the axle, and pretty easy to remove with a large screwdriver or seal puller. Brass Timken bearing adjusting nut is behind the seal. There is a locking tab that you have to bend out to tighten axle carrier bearing. Use a church key to bend.

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