Jump to content

Has Anyone Installed AFE Hi-Flow Y-Pipe 3" to 3-1/2" PN 48-440


NemesisC5

Recommended Posts

Posted

This has aftermarket cats, bolts to stock exhaust manifolds with oem flanges and eliminates 3rd cat and all stainless construction. Another version offered combined with their shorty headers with 1.75" primaries and another version with long tube headers as well. Lots of Camaro owners purchased something similar but dual mid pipes with Solo brand cats and claimed 25-30+ HP. The crush bend in the oem Y-pipe plus the almost 90* convergence along with 3rd cat doesn't look conducive to performance. It looks oem and may pass visual inspection however the aftermarket cats will likely throw a code and require a tune. Looking for a bump in power and sound but this may not be worth enough of either to justify the money. Listed at $995 shipped on Summit site.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/afe-48-44004

Posted

Couple hundred more bucks and you can have longtubes and a Y pipe.

 

Indeed, my reasoning for "considering" this part is because it looks oem and would likely pass a visual inspection in Texas "if" they look. I'd like a little more sound and performance without drawing a red flag at inspection time. If I don't get any positive reviews/replies I'll likely just gut or remove my 3rd cat. My truck has the GM Performance exhaust made by TMG / Corsa which sounds better than stock but still pretty mild so I feel if given a little extra help will be perfect for me.

Posted

From what I've read, I don't think gutting the 3rd cat nets you more volume. Also I'm not far from you, I live here in Houston.

 

I've read about it both ways and think with stock exhaust it likely won't but with my GM spec Corsa built catback I think it might. I've seen Youtube videos with before and after on a truck with JBA shorties and removing 3rd cat definitely made a difference you can hear. The truck had the JBA's on both the before and after the 3rd cat was removed. With that said I know with stock exhaust manifolds the sound difference with the JBS's definitely helped the sound factor. I may go to a muffler shop this week and have 3rd cat removed and install 3.5" pipe if anyone around will do it.

 

You're just about 90 miles West of me. BTW, I almost purchased the All Terrain like you have.

Posted

For this price, you can get actual headers and Y pipe, and still have cash in your pocket.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,347 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...