No start

[Brntwhts]

Please help... i have recently purchased a 1998 4 door chevy tahoe. It was missing very badly. So i changed the plugs and wires as well as the distributor. I definetly earned my distributer swapping stripes. As i had the usuall hard time finding timing again. In the end i lost a few battles, but one the war. She was running pretty strong even for the noticeable miss that was still occurring. So i figured i had a sloppy timing chain on my hand. So i ordered a new one. I continued to drive it till my parts came in. I recieved the parts so i was pretty excited to get rolling on the job. I purchased a new timing cover, water pump and hoses (might as well since i had to take thwm off anyways, right) also picked up oilpan gasket. Anyways the next morning, the day before my tahoe make over. I started it, she fired up all perky like as she had been. I went in the house to grab my coffee for the road trip. When i came back out. She cut out on me. So i tried to restart to no avail. Just some rumbling in the throttle body was occuring. I figured perhaps she new i got her a new chain..lol. anyways i proceded to start the work ahead of time. Well to get to the chase the work was completed. I went to hear her purr and needless to say she did not or i wouldny being asking for help . Well i called over a buddy and he heard me try to start it ans says ur 180 out. I would have bet the house i wasnt as i put it all together dot to dot dizzy at the 8 tab all to spec. So if hecsays so just maybe I fell asleep at the wheel lining up the tab. I know for certian. I am definetly dot to dot on cam and crank. I have picture proof. Sny ways after he swapped to just about every location on the cam gear with the diizy. No luck. So we slept on it and came to the conclusion must be the plugs. Went bought and installed new oem double platnum plugs. First crank i got the neigbor waking backfire out the tail pipe. So i figgured im 180 out. Flipped it around and got nothing but rumbling again at the throttle body. I have removed valve covers to confirm i am in proper time. After moving 552 times the night before. So i am 100 percent sure i am back on all my proper marks. However i am still getting nothing but rumbling out of the throttle body. I have confimed fuel pressure is at 60 and nice clean spark, as well as combustion. I am at a loss as what to test from here on out. It just feels like its not in time... please help. I need to get this thing running. I can not feed the fam with truck down. Any suggestions is and will be highly, and greatly appreciated!!!!!!

[Jsdirt]

If you're 100% certain the timing is spot-on, why would you take the distributor out again? You're chasing your tail. Verify the timing is correct, then move on.

 

From here it sounds like you've got an ignition problem - could be an ignition control module problem, or a wiring issue. Gotta test components - don't just throw parts at it. Could ALSO be cam sensor, crank sensor, bad ECM, shorted sensor ... the list goes on - too expensive to just fire the parts cannon at. Plenty of info found through Google on troubleshooting the various components.

 

Start with the simple stuff first: does the tank have fuel, even though the gauge reads ____? Is the battery good - not just correct voltage, but can it handle an amp draw? Are the battery connections tight and corrosion free? Are the cables good, and do they have good connections? Any visible damage to any wiring harnesses? Mouse nest in the airbox? Do all sensors have a good 5v reference ... and on down the line.

 

I always do a visual first, then throw the meter on the battery - if the battery checks out, I load test it. Wiggle the cable connections. If that checks out, I'll check for spark - quickly first with the old timing light, and then with a spark tester like this: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6589-Electronic-Ignition-Tester/dp/B0050SFVO2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485839376&sr=8-4&keywords=spark+tester - then if that checks out, I'll spray some brake clean into the intake through a vacuum line and try to fire it up- if it runs, then I know I've got a fuel delivery issue. If it doesn't, more testing is in order.

 

Since it ran fine ... and then didn't, you can PROBABLY rule out a mechanical/compression issue ... although a timing chain could break without warning at any time - unlikely, but certainly possible. Troubleshooting and patience will give you the answers you need.

 

This site is pretty good for troubleshooting tips if you spend some time searching for the right info: https://www.obd-codes.com/search/?cx=006282753923640923292%3Absyyn-_1vle&cof=FORID%3A11&ie=UTF-8&q=98+Tahoe+no+start&sa=Search&siteurl=www.obd-codes.com%2F&ref=&ss=3299j804551j18

[barry G]

you do know 1998 is obd2.

 

a cheap scanner in real time data could tell you a lot.

timing off will have crazy vacuum, if you want to use an old dial gauge to check for the flutters.

18 inches is the good old normal for these SBC years.

anything less is wrong.

 

these also can loop back on a ground and bite... make sure all is clean, back behind bellhousing included...top of tranny.

[Jsdirt]

Yep - my post still stands. Codes might point you in a general direction, if you're lucky. Sometimes they're not even in the ballpark. Live data will tell you much, much more.

 

A scan tool capable of showing live data should be standard equipment for anyone owning a vehicle built from 1996 onward.

[Brntwhts]

Hi, sorry i didnt back quickly. Thanks for ur help! I ahould start by saying for other people who may be interested in this thread in the future. I never "threw" parts at this situation my truck was having. When i first purchased the truck i found that the distributor tabs were broke, and the former owner repaired by completely coverin the mating gap whith an entire tube of silicone. Needless to say i could not leave this be! As far as the timing chain. It was complete coincidence that it stop running the day after the timing kit came in. I bought the timimng kit soley for the purpose of preventive maintenance. This tahoe has 210,000 miles on it. Everything else was replaced simply because it was off and again it is a high miles vehicle.

 

I am thankful for ur reply as with it. I ran throught and cleaned all grounding locations. As well as replacing the green corroded ground straps. Thus causing it to indeed have a better power at turn over. Unfortunately as i was gounig to clean starter contacts the were so bad the both broke. When i openened solenoid to replace connection studs the wire snapped at the electric motor internal1y. Causing me to have to replace yet another part.

 

With that being said. My problem was the brand new distributer cap. I had wrote off as being good because it was brand new. was infact bad and causing crossfire within the cap. New oem rotor and cap has this ole girl running like a champ. Knock on dash ofcorse...lol

 

Again thanks for ur replys, very much appreciated! !

[Jsdirt]

Glad you got it fixed!

 

Not surprised at all with the cap. Parts quality the past few years has taken a straight-line nosedive right into the toilet. I've been having to do simple jobs 3 or 4 times in some cases. Ignition components, shock absorbers, ball joints, brake components, cooling components, starting components ... the list goes on. One month I had THREE brand new Ford starter solenoids fail - one of them original Motorcraft brand too.

 

Can't win today ...