Jump to content

2004 Sierra 2500HD Low beam headlight problem


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all,

This morning while driving my truck I got told at a stop light that my running lights in the back were not working. So when I got to work I got out and checked and sure enough they weren't working so when I left work I turned the truck on and got out to check the lights and they were working just fine. So I though must have been just a connector that wiggled the wrong way. Well 2 days later on the way to work in the morning I realize that my low beam headlights were not working. They have not been working for about 4 days now and I am not sure why. I replaced the bulb, checked the fuses, and even checked the relay and they were all good. All other lights are working just fine including the high beams. I am lost on this and I'm not sure what else to check. Any ideas?

Posted

Switch or photocell on the dash might be showing their age

Posted

Just took the fuse box under the hood out and sprayed all the connections underneath it with contact cleaner and no luck. I have ordered a dimmer switch (the little box on the left that controls the lights) and I am going to try that

Posted

Put the switch in today and no luck. I'm just confused on how this happens all of the sudden and its not something simple like a fuse, switch or relay

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I apologize for long post put going to try to explain everything. Parts replaced so far: Cam sensor Crank sensor Cam phaser valve Cam phaser solenoid Fuel pump Maf 1 injector Pcm Pdm   So about 2 weeks ago coming off the highway my 2007 yukon xl with the 6.2 stalled and would restart. Had unit towed back to house and I messed around with relays and unit started. Drove it the next day and same thing. Had it towed again. Scanned unit and had code p0300 with misfire data showing mainly cylinder 7 but I know that won't cause a no start. Measure fuel pressure and found only 42 psi replaced pump to have unit stall again and not restart. This time I stayed on back roads and just waited for it to restart about 30 to 60 min. During this time I found I have no injector pulse but have good power at injectors. Started unplugging 1 injector at a time and found when unplugging cylinder 7 pulse came back so i changed injecto and same issue. Turns out unit just happen to ready to start at that time. Scanned into unit and found no reason for the pcm to take away injector pulse so I replaced the pcm and same issue. I figured timing sesnor controlled the injector pulse so I replaced both sensors and while I had the water pump of i replaced the vvt components while i was in there. Read multiple people have luck chaging the maf for this issue so I changed it. Unit still stalls to this day and loses injector pulse on the ground side when it does. Have noticed watching the live data the pcm is request injectors to fire via injector pwm value. I have redone the ground wires at the left bottom of the block knowing this was the ground location for the pcm but still no luck. I am a mechanic by trade but this is having me pull my hair out. If anyone has something to have me check I will gladly im not much of a parts thrower but im about to load the cannon
    • Actually.  Wait.   I just re-read your original post.  Are you talking from INSIDE the truck you have to hit unlock?  Or from the key fob?  I had assumed from the key fob.   IF you are talking the inside unlock button, I assume you are shifting to park and its not unlocking the doors?  If so, that is changed via the settings page in the radio.  Go to SETTINGS, then VEHICLE and then it should be under LOCKS or DOOR LOCKS or something like that.  
    • Just pull the inside door handle.  It has mechanical override to the lock.  
    • Got to have those sliding doors. One of my favorite things about a minivan. The Kia does a good job of making a minivan look like an SUV. I may do a Toyota next. I want the awd option.
    • I took my 24 Sierra Denali 4wd in at 37,000 miles. Had the mileage maintenance checks done, asked them to change out the two limited slip differentials, including the limited slip additive, and change out the transfer case fluid. They rotated my tires, verified my shocks weren’t leaking, and whatever minor checkouts that were on the list for 37,000 miles. About three hours later, they charged me $600 and sent me off. I was considering having the 10-speed transmission serviced, but between the posts on this forum and previous experiences with transmission failures after a fluid and filter change, I decided against the tranny fluid changeout when the service advisor told me it would take about 3 hours and cost about $500. After growing up working in three different full-service gas stations, I know to stay far away from flushing machines connected to any automatic transmission. I don’t meet the severe duty schedule, but I may follow the 45,000 mile tranny service, unless  i see more problems from doing so on the forums. I expect I will want to watch the entire procedure. The various utube videos do a decent job of showing how much time and attention should be taken for a correct fluid &filter replacement, so witnessing the procedure seems something I should do. Trust but Verify🥳 Otherwise, I’ll follow the owner’s manual recommendations, whatever they are.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...