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2013 Sierra issue

dhmtbiker9

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dhmtbiker9 Enthusiast

dhmtbiker9

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I purchased a used 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 extended cab last November. The truck had 37,000 miles on it. I love the truck but I cant keep bringing it in for service. It is totally going drive me crazy.

The truck started leaking oil 2000 miles after purchase and vehicle had 40,800 total miles. I bring it in hoping nothing major, well turned out to be head gaskets. Im thinking a motor this young shouldn't be doing this but I already bought it and they did fix under warranty which I am happy they did without any issues. So im looking over the work they performed and it say 2 hrs to do both head gaskets and an oil line. To me that is faster than any motor should ever be pulled open and repaired and replaced. I cant do two cylinder snowmobile top end that fast. I do not know if the time they put is accurate but do need to look into this , because now after 2000 more after doing head gaskets I am getting a horrible sound from under passenger side. It is hard to pin point so I could wrong.

After some searching I came across where some guys swapped out oil and filter and issue was gone but not for me. The noise was still there. I was thinking last time i filled up was Cumberland farms, (not my usual gas) and thought maybe bad gas so I went and topped it off (from 1/2 tank) with premium 93 octane and the noise has gotten quieter.

 

I tried to upload a video for sound but its big. I will put on youtube and link it.

My dilemma is, do I bring it back to the fastest repair shop or look into other dealer. My warranty will be up in couple months and not sure what to do because sound has depleted.

dhmtbiker9 Enthusiast

dhmtbiker9

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Noise was there after warms up. Oil pressure at about 30psi at idle. The noise has gotten quiter and im wondering if bad gas was the issue. Bringing it in to have it checked.

  • 2 weeks later...
dhmtbiker9 Enthusiast

dhmtbiker9

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So after driving a little while with purolator one oil filter and full synthetic dexos oil when I originally did oil change when noise started the motor ran smooth with no noise. Brought it to different GMC dealer to have checked, they told me to bring it in just for a listen but it was silent there also. They did recommend changing oil flter back to ac delco for warranty reasons, mechanic was cool and up front but they wouldn't have there he said. So i took his advice put ac delco oil filter and topped it off with exact same oil, took about 3/4qt. Well after driving about 150 miles the motor is loud and knocking again. Now im no engineeri but this seems to simple. Could it be the bypass valve opening and closing and why fail so early?

Podor Enthusiast

Podor

Posted
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It sounds like a double knock from a piston wrist pin, but it's hard to tell on my tablet. If it is a wrist pin, it needs a new engine or at least a teardown. You said it's still under warranty? If so, would definitely take it to whatever shop will take care of it. I can't for the life of me figure out why they thought the head gaskets were leaking oil. There are no pressure feeds in the head, and I don't think it's possible for it to run out externally from draining back. I don't think I would take it to the shop that did the head gaskets.

dhmtbiker9 Enthusiast

dhmtbiker9

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The dealer where I bought the truck did the head gaskets. It was leaking oil out the back side of motor. That got fixxed and 2 thousand miles after is when I started hearing knock. But it did go away when did oil change, but came back when i put ac delco filter back on. Wouldn't a rod knock or pin knock always be there or would it come and go. When mine knocks its at drve temp not cold.

Podor Enthusiast

Podor

Posted
Posted

That engine should have floating wrist pins. It's possible that the pin is no longer round and rotates to a point where the clearance isn't as bad. The best thing to do is to go to a parts store and buy an automotive stethoscope. It's cheap and very effective at locating where a sound is. It could be a flywheel bolt or an accessory too. If it's loudest in the block/oil pan, it's an internal issue. If it's loudest at the valve cover, it's valve train.

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