5.3L Harmonic Balancer Install.. Lube or No Lube???

[01burban]

I have seen comments both ways as far as lubing the non-keyed Harmonic balancer before installing it. What is the correct way?... Dry or lubed?

 

 

 

 

 

2007 5.3 suburban

 

Ron

[newdude]

I see no mention of any lubricant. Very specific install instructions though...

 

 

Installation Procedure

Important:

• The crankshaft balancer installation and bolt tightening involves a four stage tightening process. The first pass ensures that the balancer is installed completely onto the crankshaft. The second, third, and fourth passes tighten the NEW bolt to the proper torque.
• The used crankshaft balancer bolt will be used ONLY during the first pass of the balancer installation procedure. Install a NEW bolt and tighten as described in the second, third and fourth passes of the balancer bolt tightening procedure.

Important: The balancer should be positioned onto the end of the crankshaft as straight as possible prior to tool installation.

Important: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.4–4.48 mm (0.094–0.176 in) into the balancer bore.

1. Position the crankshaft balancer (138) onto the end of the crankshaft.
3. Install the J 41665 and the threaded rod from the J 41478 to crankshaft balancer and install the balancer.
   1. Assemble the threaded rod, nut, washer and installer. Insert the smaller end of the installer into the front of the balancer.
   2. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
   3. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is started onto the crankshaft.
   4. Remove the tool and reverse the installation tool.

      Position the larger end of the installer against the front of the balancer.

   5. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
   6. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is installed onto the crankshaft.
   7. Remove the J 41665 and the threaded rod.
4. 
   
5. Install the USEDcrankshaft balancer bolt (139).
   Tighten
   Tighten the USED bolt to 330 Y (240 lb ft).
6. Remove the USED crankshaft balancer bolt.
7. Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimension, install the J 41665 and repeat the installation procedure.
8. 
   
9. Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt (139).
   Tighten
   1. Tighten the bolt a first pass to 80 Y (59 lb ft).
   2. Tighten the bolt a final pass to 125 degrees using J 45059.
10. 
    
11. Remove the J 42386-A  (1) and bolts.
12. Install the starter motor. Refer to Starter Replacement.
13. Install the cooling fan and shroud. Refer to Cooling Fan and Shroud Replacement.
14. Install the A/C drive belt. Refer to Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement.
15. Perform the crankshaft position (CKP) system variation learn procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn.

 

[01burban]

Thanks.... looks like what I had in mind with all the info I gathered but some people are using lube... obviously easier I guess but is that totally wrong?

[Jsdirt]

Just based on experience with press-fit parts, I'm gonna say that lube or no lube won't much matter either way.

 

Any interference fit parts will wipe whatever lubricant you put on there right off. You're forcing 2 parts that are different sizes together - the larger part into a smaller part ... hence the term, "interference fit".

 

The way things are built today, by the time everything in there rusts enough to become a problem, the vehicle will have been in the scrap heap long, long before.

 

 

 

Never thought I'd wake up one day to find a friggin harmonic balancer installation PROCEDURE - a several-paragraph one at that!! WTF ...

[01burban]

Yeah I have to agree on that. Its been a while since I have done in depth engine repairs and that Harmonic Balancer was a bit of a pain in the ass.

 

I applied a small amount of "never seize" and used the ball of a towing hitch against the center of the Balancer, tapping with a Thor-like mallet on the nutted side of the ball hitch until the Balancer was on far enough to grab 4 threads of the GM bolt. Engine immediately began to turn as I tried to ratchet it further so I used my 1/2 inch impact to slowly get it in further making sure the Balancer was actually moving with each quick blast from the impact gun. Onceon, I braced the engine from the Balancer using the hooked end of a 3' crow bar wedged in the spoke of it and the other end turning below until it locked itself against the floor jack that I centered under the cross member. "Click" 240lbs later... broke it loose & removed the old bolt, reinstalled the new one with red Loctite using specs in my repair manual of 48lbs (if I remember correctly) followed by a , followed by a 90° and a 70° .

 

I had a PEP-Boys Harmonic Balancer install kit which looked like it would do the trick but the one long bolt that threads into the "snout thread adapter" to fit multiple snouts was just not long enough but about an inch. Not to mention when I tested the the "thread adapter end" for fit and backed it out to remove it, the threaded end remained in the snout, only the long bolt came out! Neighbors heard me recite every swear word in the book on that event. Ended up teflon taping the end of the long bolt and getting it to thread back into the adapter within the snout and then when it backed its way out, it stayed connected to the bolt(thank god).

 

 

If anyone is curious as to why I was in my 5.3 that deep, its because I did a DOD/AFM Delete repair!. My AFV #8 intake lifter was collapsed and stuck @ 140k. Great design GM.... You really outdone yourself on this modern marvel. My 94' & 01 Suburban both ran to 190k with out a glitch. This 07 I can't trust driving further than my AAA towing allows (100 miles free towing). Sorry to ramble on but this whole repair was ridiculous and in my eyes an engineering disaster. They just don't make them like they used to, very unfortunate as I really can't see myself buying another suburban ever again, just been burned too bad on this one... local dealer wanted $3k for the repair, and that was a low starting estimate. Home repair and DOD delete ran me about $600 plus some new plugs, oil pressure sensor, cam sensor, antifreeze, Oil & filter

[Jsdirt]

I'm sure I'll be in that same boat sooner or later - I've got the same engine in my '07 with a little over 90k on her now.

 

I'm hoping I can make it until the truck is 15 years old. Exempt from emissions then. Then I can toss a tried and true 5.7 in her to live out the rest of her life.

 

After all the crap I've been through with this truck, it was decided LONG ago that this would be my last GM product. This is how they repay us for decades of loyalty? Well F*** Y** GM!!!!

[01burban]

Sounding pretty sour and you even haven't been bitten yet by the AFM failure yet. I don't believe the emissions should be affected at least not CT. After the DOD/AFM Delete repair, you pretty much have an off the lot Hummer engine for that year. If anything your engine should burn cleaner... less oil burn. Besides at idle or acceleration AFM is not activated so I don't think it should make any Emissions testing difference.

 

Can't remember how I found this but here was my saving grace... http://lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm

 

Good Luck to all AFM GM vehicle owners!!!

[Jsdirt]

Up here, if the check engine light is on for ANY reason, you get a "rejected" sticker - instead of having the number of the month the sticker expires in in the center of the sticker, you get a big black "R" that cops can see a mile away. Safety failures get you a bright red "R" that guarantees you're getting pulled over whenever you see a cop.

 

It's yet another in a long list of MA state government racketeering, plain and simple. Another way to extort money from The People.

 

If I were to disable AFM without a tune, the light would be on. For now, I took the cheap way out and bought a Range device off eBay. I leave it plugged into the DLC. Works great. Might buy me some time. The pistons and rings will probably wear out around the time I need to repair the lifters and crap on this one.

 

They sure don't build 'em like they used to ...