Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500. As others have said on this forum, the truck started having weird electrical problems: the door locks would cycle locked and unlocked rapidly, different warning lights in the dash would come on and the tach and speedo would fall to zero then come back to where they had been. I cleaned the contact points of the negative battery cable (alt and frame) and the problem went away for a few months. Recently, the problem returned but with a new twist: when I shut off the engine, there would be no power until I jiggled the small ground wire on the negative battery cable--then it would start and run fine. I've read the fixes others have come up with on this forum and am wondering how long the fix lasted (weeks, months, years?); no one seems to bother to follow up with that information. I would appreciate it if someone would address this. Thanks.

Posted

Have you had the battery checked? If it's the original battery, it is getting close, and probably past, its lifespan. The battery in my '10 lasted about 5 years. Low batteries can cause all kind of electrical gremlins in these trucks.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have a 2011 Silverado and had the same problems. I had it towed to the dealer who had it for 3-4 days and said it was a loose ground at the battery. Drove it for a few months and it happened again. I did some additional research and came to the conclusion it was the ground cable itself. I ordered a new one April 11th off Amazon, put it on, and haven't had a problem since then.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
  • 5 years later...
Posted (edited)

My 2011 Sierra 1500 similar problems. I have a new battery. My door clicker stopped working had got it to work for short time then quit working all together. My battery gauge on dash reads 15 V most all the time. It will drain the battery it it sets for 3-4 days. The park lights sometimes come on in middle of the night or will stay on. Head lights ( switch on auto setting ) will flash. I gust purchase this unit a few months ago. If setting at store with it off and in a few minutes it dash comes on and says low battery voltage. Dealership can't help they say voltage is normal and can't find anything wrong with loss of batty voltage???? . My email is [email protected]

Any advice as to what I can do myself repair shops here are no help 

Edited by Teddyshrew
Posted
On 12/23/2022 at 12:06 PM, Teddyshrew said:

My 2011 Sierra 1500 similar problems. I have a new battery. My door clicker stopped working had got it to work for short time then quit working all together. My battery gauge on dash reads 15 V most all the time. It will drain the battery it it sets for 3-4 days. The park lights sometimes come on in middle of the night or will stay on. Head lights ( switch on auto setting ) will flash. I gust purchase this unit a few months ago. If setting at store with it off and in a few minutes it dash comes on and says low battery voltage. Dealership can't help they say voltage is normal and can't find anything wrong with loss of batty voltage???? . My email is [email protected]

Any advice as to what I can do myself repair shops here are no help 

Door clicker sounds like a separate problem, maybe the coin battery in the fob or the contacts are dirty underneath.

 

Don't think of it as a "battery" gauge, it's a gauge of the voltage available in the truck, Anything over 12 volts is from the alternator and is to charge the battery.

 

The question you need to be figuring out is why are the lights coming on in the first place? If they are on long enough - they'll run the battery down even if its new.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 326 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...