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2011 2500hd speakers


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Posted

I have a 2011 2500hd, it did not come with factory Bose. I replaced the head unit with a kenwood double din. The head unit change made a world of difference with the factory speakers. I also have 2 10 inch skar audio vd10s under the back seat that are running at about 1000rms. I have been looking at skar audio door speakers to replace the existing factory speakers. The rears are simple, 6 1/2 coaxial. Now the front is where I'm having trouble understanding what to do. I have never used component speakers before, but my understanding of a component, is that the 6 1/2 woofer was just that, a woofer and the tweeter was the tweeter and the part that "sings". Now the factory speakers, to me sound like a coaxial with an additional tweeter, the factory 6 1/2 "sings" as well as the tweeter, do I replace the front speakers with components? And change our the factory tweeter? Or should I just buy a set of 6 1/2 mid bass woofers and replace those while leaving the factory tweeter alone? Also, would a factory Bose tweeter be any better than a factory non Bose tweeter? Basically my 3 questions are, replace woofer and tweeter with aftermarket? Replace just woofer with aftermarket? Or replace woofer with aftermarket, and tweeter replace with Bose factory tweeter?

 

 

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  • 3 months later...
Posted

Replace the front 6.5's and tweeters with a new component set.  Probably the most important part of a component set is the quality of the crossover.  When you purchase a set it will come with a crossover that is matched to the woofer and the tweeter.  This will ensure that the highs go to the tweeter and not the woofer and vice-versa.  It is not good for a speaker to try and reproduce sounds it is not capable or designed to reproduce.

 

In a coaxial set this crossover is often built into the the speaker.  The factory speakers I believe simply used bass blockers on the tweeters.  Know that when you replace the tweeters in the A-Pillar you will probably have to custom mount them using an epoxy (don't be too tempted to use hot glue - summer heat will cause an issue!)  Pointing these is very important.

 

You should always consider components / separates as a matched set that are designed to work together.

 

Unless you are running a Bose system stay away from Bose.  They are often a much lower impedance speaker that is designed specifically for the system.  You have much research to do!

Posted

are you gonna amplify the front doors? if not look into coax 6.5, and just unplug the bose tweeter. if you go wiff components(woofer/tweeter) i would amplify them. that alpine inline amp works great Alpine KTP-445u. 

Posted

I was not going to, if I do it will be the small power pack amp like your saying. I’m looking at skar audio components and coax for rear.


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Posted

I’ll probably end up with a set of 4 coax and leaving the factory tweeters. What size are the tweeters in the factory housings? They really don’t sound bad.


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Posted

I have done plenty of systems, I just have never done them with components. So I’m entering a new territory. I am also considering changing my sub setup. From 2 10, to 2 8 in a forward facing ported box.


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Posted
23 hours ago, casey.mikl said:

I’ll probably end up with a set of 4 coax and leaving the factory tweeters. What size are the tweeters in the factory housings? They really don’t sound bad.


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kinda hard to answer that question cause the tweeters are in a molded to a speaker grill to clip into the A-pillar or into the door panel, but either way if you do go wiff tweeters custom mounts will be used, and those come in the box when you choose which ones you get. hole saw is your friend, if you do mount tweets,  wiff the hole saw, once drill bit is though the plastic use the saw in reverse to start hole for tweeter.

Posted

Okay, I’m wanting them to look as if the factory tweeter is there. I don’t want an aftermarket tweeter sticking though the pillar


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