97 K2500 5.7 Removal

[Jerrydog]

Hi All, new to this forum. I have a 97 standard cab long bed k2500 4x4 5.7l with 120k miles. Starts and runs well and its a great truck. I bought it to plow with and use for errands. Since I live in Maine things rust so after I bought it, what I thought was a simple oil leak turned out to be a rusted through oil pan. Never seen that before. Shortly after discovering this I discovered the exhaust down pipe flanges are literally gone, and both exhaust manifolds tick. Then the transmission line split due to rust and well that stinks too. Also discovered a rust hole in the front cross member in the worst possible place. Well that said its obvious the engine needs to come out for some work and for access to repair the frame.

 

So I started to remove the engine. Had to cut the down pipes off below the manifolds to get it out. Ive unbolted the transmission and torque converter, Ive disconnected the fuel lines behind the distributor, getting ready to remove it but I have a few questions.

 

1. How do I handle the wiring harnesses? I cant get to the drivers side plugs behind the brake booster at all and the left hand bulkhead connector wont unplug. Do I leave the harness with the truck or is it better to try to pull with the engine, if so how?

 

2. Oil filter and coolant lines. Do I unbolt the entire assembly from the block or do I attempt to remove the lines and pull the filter with the engine?

 

Any thoughts would be a big help. I have to say this is by far the hardest vehicle I have ever worked on in my 48 years. I have never struggled with any honda toyota nissan bmw or mercedes like this and Ive owned them all. Nothing makes sense and nothing is accessible on this truck. Every bolt is blocked by something else.... its very frustrating the last engine i pulled took 3 hours.

 

Thank you

 

Dave

[bigblok]

Remove your sensor connectors and all related wiring from the motor it's easiest. Your oil filters upside down leave it if it's jutting out of the side then you'll probably have to remove it since it will interfere with the steering gear. Disconnect oil filter lines from the radiator you'll probably have to remove the radiator and the rest of the front clip Grill lights in order to get the motor over the front bumper probably have to take the distributor out anything that will stop you from pulling the motor so it's not in the way don't take it off

 

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

[Motor City Rick]

There are "tricks" in pulling motors out within 1 hour or less with your type of truck. Everybody has their style. Without a hoist and a trans / transfer case jack, your beating yourself apart. 4X4, on the ground, Wow!!!

 

I agree, remove the hood first, pull the radiator, disconnect the lines off the radiator. Pull the wire harness off the motor and tie up near the cowl.

 

When the oil pan is off, get a "large volume", ....not a "high pressure" oil pump to take up the excessive clearances in the motor.

 

But you did mention the oil pan had holes and you live in Maine??? Well, living in the salt capitol of the world, southeastern Michigan, I will tell you some better actions to prevent rust issues.

 

First, DO NOT just paint the oil pan, a minimum would be to "powder coat" the exterior of the pan to the engine color (which should be black). DO NOT use rust proof to cover the pan.

 

If you can afford it, find a coating shop that can galvanize/ nickel coat, less chrome or other available coatings to coat the pan from rust. Some paint shops can spray on a rust preventative paint coating that is good as "powder coat". DO NOT skip this procedure!!!

Use RTV sealant to seal the oil pan rails, not cork gasket. Don't reef down on oil pan bolts, let the RTV do the work. Change ALL leaking seals while the motor is out.

 

For the exhaust flanges / Y-pipe, get a "very good" quality Y-pipe, not a cheap / thin gauge Chinese pipe ... and spray "ceramic paint" on the complete pipe as to slow down the rust issues. Don't forget to use "nickel" (silver color) anti seize on the ball flange of the exhaust manifold (make sure none of it goes down inside the pipe and touches the O2 sensor), also apply to the exhaust manifold installed bolts an Y-pipe threads. This is done to prevent future seized bolts/ threaded nuts.

 

As for the exhaust manifolds "ticking", that was cause by water splash getting on the exhaust manifolds. The "proper repair" is to remove the manifolds, inspect very closely for cracks / exhaust port flange leaks with the evidence of black exhaust gas markings as your proof. If there is cracks in the manifold itself, throw them out. If the flanges are leaking, have a machine shop "mill" for straightness.

 

Exhaust gaskets will give long term problems if they are not 100% steel stamping design. NEVER use any form of header, they will be junk within 3 winters. As a rule, the exhaust manifold bolts have gone through thousands of hot / cold / rust cycles. Get "new" exhaust manifold bolts with retainers if possible. Torque from the center, rotating out at 2 torque levels. If you do not do this procedure, don't be surprised the manifold will start "ticking" again.

 

As for the trans lines, I'd say get stainless steel lines, but most car / truck guys have a very tough time fabbing them up. Just cut out the section, use low pressure / non-flare compression fittings to save costs.

 

Most important item, try to find all the under carriage splash / stone shields including wheel well splash seals to prevent the water / road salts making it to the motor and causing problems

 

Remember, this truck does not have the same "repair logic" as the cars you mentioned above. If you need further help, hit us up. Be patient, be focused, replace "anything" that is marginal in the engine bay. It's gonna cost you a lot of investment money.

[Jerrydog]

Thank you guys for the input.

 

Dave

[Jerrydog]

Guys I need help.  I finally have my truck nearly back together and before i finished it all up i decided to fire it up just to make sure I haven't forgotten anything major.  Seems that no matter what I do its dead.  Fully charged battery, 13.5volts.  starter all installed, grounds all installed, harness all plugged in but its dead.  no lights not horn no door chime nothing.  To recap, I pulled the motor to install a new oil pan, exhaust manifolds etc...  I repaired the frame rust, installed new inner fenders and radiator core support. all has been reinstalled.....  What am I missing?  I even added a new heavy ground strap from the engine to the frame and the frame to inner fender.  Why is is it dead?  I need help its getting colder by the day.

[Logan Lanfear]

If youve got a multi meter, its time to start troubleshooting.  Trace your power from the battery to all existing leads.  If you have nothing at all, it would seem like theres a connection issue. 

[Jerrydog]

I have no idea where to start.... Everything that was removed or unplugged has been plugged back in.  Every connection that bolted to something was cleaned and reassembled.... I even added new grounds.... Its got to be something big I just have no idea what.  I do get a very small connection spark when I attach the ground to the terminal. Not to mention its 20 degrees outside....

 

Suggestions on some things to check and where they are would be appreciated.

[Logan Lanfear]

So you should have a hot wire that goes to the fuse box from the battery.  Check the box to see if the power made it there.  If theres no power to the box, you have issues somewhere with the battery connections or connections in the wiring harness.  Did you check fuses to see if anything had blown?

[Jerrydog]

No I haven't checked fuses.....I don't even know where they are. I will track that down.

 

[Jerrydog]

Okay so i checked the lead to the  main fuse box in the engine compartment and it was dead.  Turns out the feed for that was mixed in with the plow harness wiring that I thought I had isolated.  Go figure the first car Ive ever owned out of 30 or so that has two main positive wires.... ugh this truck!!!  

 

I got in and turned the key.  I have power etc but the truck does not turn over....  starter is hooked up with two wires.  One is the heavy guage to the battery and the second is the starter key trigger.  When i can get help i will check if Im getting 12v at the starter trigger.  any advice is appreciated.

[Logan Lanfear]

Well now that youve got power with no crank, its easier to diagnose.  Either its a bad starter or bad connection or bad solenoid.  Sounds like youre getting close to hearing it run!

[bigblok]

Good to hear. I would never do this ordinarily but LoL plow harness you crack me up J? try jumping solenoid.