Everything w/prices needed to do full SQ upgrade on new 2014+ follow m

[offroad_racer]

Let me first start off by saying I have been doing so much research this past week. I've watch tons of videos mostly from 5 star car audio and car audio etc. Ive gone to all the product companies websites and done price and feature comparisons on Best Buy, Ebay, Amazon, Crutchfield, Sonic Electronix, and Audio Savings. if an installer and just hear to answer my questions jump down below were it says installer below.

 

My truck 2015 Silverado 1500 LT Double Cab (very little space behind seat and back wall) has the factory longer center console and has 8" screen w/o bose system. Going for full SQ set up. Buying my stuff either from Best Buy (12 months no interest have 2k) and/or Ebay/Amazon/Online/Audio Store with ebay like 702-motoring (vegas closet for me) so i can use Paypal card (6 months no interest 2k).

 

First I decided the cost to upgrade the 2015 unit to get Android Auto and/or Navigation was the same or more to get a high end pioneer/kenwood deck with idatalink, dvd, bluetooth, hd radio, android auto/carplay, time sensitivity, rear dual zone, factory features, and so much more.

 

First I chose what smart system I wanted to use. Maestro RR, Pac has one and there was one other I forget the names. The Maestro Idatalink was the easy winner. For 165 can get the RR & GM3+ harness from 702-motoring on ebay thats $55 off and the SAT1 is $16-20.00. You will also need a GM antenna adapter ( make sure get right one I paid like $7 on ebay). Last part u need is Sirius tuner S300/S200 if want to keep XM. It rangers from $45-70 Im getting it free with head unit.

 

Next was the head unit after research videos I narrowed it down to these idatalink units that also had dvd, bluetooth, full sound set up, 6 channel rcas, and more. Then Kenwood ddx9904s (2016 model ddx9903s has hdmi spot on back my top choice). No best buy option but $550 online for older and $700 with free sirius for new model. The next model was the Pioneer 4201nex (16 model 4200nex, only difference they added a back up camera) pioneers face also is removable. Oh both decks do front and rear camera and can be on at all times for towing. The pioneer 4201 is about $ online 525 (650 best buy) and $455 for older model.

 

My amp research took a long time with all the brands and models. Since I am doing a sub that is under 500 watts rms a 5 channel amp was the perfect solution for my clean simple SQ setup. Originally I narrowed it down to Alpine, Pioneer, Kicker kxa800.5, and Rockford Fosgate T1000x5ad. But removed last 2 because Alpine better imo based on wattage and feature than Kicker for same price and I can justify double the price for the rockford. So first your cheapest route the Pioneer GM-D9605 ($250 Best Buy vs $210 online, bass knob included) it only does 75x4 vs alpines 100x4. The Alpine PDX-V9 msrp/BBcost was $700 (can get online for $415 or $455 and save 15 on rockville wiring kit). This amp is the oldest in the products, released in 2010 (most everything else 17/16) but still one of the best 5 channels, very small size and awesome connectors so can remove and stackable. If you go with Alpine and want bass knob you need Rux-Knob cost $28 at sonic elecronix. Will most likely run the Alpine. You will need a Metra 99-3014G dash kit and you move your climate control over to the new dash piece (I spent $25 on ebay)

 

For my sub I didn't want to use my underseat storage. So i chose to put underneath the console. JL Audio makes a fiberglass 10" box with a good sub its like $700. Rodney Sub boxes makes a mdf box meant for a 8" sub on ebay. Can buy box for $160 after ship or spend a little over $400 and get a 2016 Kicker Solobaric S7, amp and wiring. I had narrowed my research down to the Kicker Solobaric 8", Kicker CompRT 8", and Polk MM1 DVC 8 or 10". I chose the Kicker Solobaric over CompRT due to rms (450/300) power and other stats. The 2017 model # 44L7S84 was $280 at best buy or like 250 online but right now until the 16th buy 1 get 1 50% off (like components for $125 instead of 250). As I said before the 2016 model #11SL784 is $150 online. I really like the Polk MM1 1042DVC but after talking to Rodney even though its small 10" (400rms) wont fit and the 8" only 300 rms. So the 10" would require me making my own box. But so you know about $180 for 10" MM1042 dvc and $160 for 8" MM842 dvc. I already order the Solobaric Rodney box just have to decide if buying a 2017 model from Best buy or 16 model online. PS make sure you buy the 4ohm so you can take advantage of 500 rms on 2 ohm amp load. Mostly will come down to the speaker brand decision.

 

 

For my speakers which between that and wiring I havent really decided yet. I narrowed it down to 5 originally all pretty much same pricing and level/quality $250-300 for component and $100-200 on coaxial (2017s: Kenwood Exceleron XR 7"/6.5"s, Infinity Kappas 6.75"s, and Polk MM1 6.75/6.5"s) but then narrowed it down to 2 mostly cause both at best buy since ill prob buy other products online and dont want all do in 6 months for no interest. 2017/16 Kicker KSS 125 rms & KSC 100 rms and the 2017/previous think 2010 R-series 100 rms (110 for previous). The Kicker comes in 6.75 or 6.5" (2017 model #44kss6704/6504, and 16 model #41kss674/654) and cost $250 best buy (230 online w/free stuff) and the 2016 $115. The coaxial is KSC446704/6504 and costs $100 BB (70 online w/free) and 2016 is 41KSC674/654 cost $55. For the Alpine R-series 2017 model # R-S65c cost $300 at bb/online and previous model SPR-60c cost $165. For the coaxial 2017 model # R-S65 cost $200 bb/online and previous model SPR-60 cost $60. I will probably do 17 Kicker component to get it for $125 with buying the kicker 17 sub and get 50% off and then maybe do the previous model Alpine coaxial. I plan to run the tweeter up in the dash spot.

 

Now for the speakers you will need a few things. For front doors Metra 82-3005 is your speaker adapter mount cost $12-17 and for the rear speaker its the Scosche SAGMHR-634 cost $12. If you dont want to modify door wiring you buy these harness speaker connectors need 2 one for front and one for rear American Intl SH3802 cost $13. Crutchfield loves to give these things free when you buy from them. I suggest buying FAST Rings or a similar brand also for the speakers. Need 2 boxes (pair in box) the F.A.S.T.6 cost $25 and the Stinger RKFR6 cost $30 can get free sometimes on Sonic Electronix.

 

For my wiring kits I decided I want complete 100% OFC on all components including RCAs, you can spend less and get CCA wires. I narrowed it down to 10 from 8 brands but then due to uncertain on rca narrowed it further to 7/6 brands. Everything has power wire components and 6 channel rca's either 16.5-20 feet (can get shorter for less), some include speaker wire. Stinger 4000 series (SK4641 & SI4417 total $79), Stinger 6000 series (SK6641 & SI6417 total $124), Kicker (CK4 & KI46 = $94), Rockford Fosgate (RFK4x & RFI-20 = $94), NVX (XKIT42 & XIV46 = $82), Rockville (RWK4CU & RTR174 = $65), and KnuKonceptz (KOL-AK4 & KRY4.6M = $80). I like the 6000 series but dunno if its worth the 30-50 more, the Knuconcepts is nice to. BTW all my pricing I put includes shipping. BTW only the Series 4000 kit above doesnt have speaker wire, but they do have one with speaker think its only like $5 more. I still need to finish my sound deadening research and price comparison.

 

As you will read below on my email to 5 star Car Audio I had a few questions one was about the speaker wiring and using a Speed Wire 9 conductor 18 gauge from going to amp to main harness at dash/kick panel. Here are the 4 I narrowed down to at 20' lengths 9 conductor 18 gauge. Stinger SGW9920 cost $23, Metra MC918-20 cost $22, Voodoo VSW18-9BC-20 cost $16, and a no name brand 100% OFC for $14 on ebay but only 15 feet.

 

I also order several of the things 5 Star Car Audio uses to do installs. Tesa Tape 19mmx25m its $4.50 on amazon but i paid $8 to order in in the states didnt want to wait for china. Tesa 4965 double sided tape 1/2"x36yd 8 mil paid $19. JVCC SCF-01 gasket/foam tape paid $12. PET Expandable Braided Sleeving they suggested 1/4, 1/2, and 1", the one i found on ebay had 3/4" no 1" I bought 20 feet of the first 2 and 10 feet of 3/4 and spent $23.50. I already had heat shrink and solder and didnt need Peachtree Woodworking 1"x36 tape since not doing wood work.

 

There are a couple other things I look up that im not sure I need so you will see it brought up in the email I sent to 5 star below. Also I think there will be something I order to install the remote amp power line, instead of just putting behind a fuse in fuse block.

 

INSTALLERS Read Below

 

Hello guys I have watched several of your videos and have commented on a couple. Ok so first ill ask the simple easy questions from watching videos of yours.

What thickness ABS (or do u use HDPE) for your amp/tweeter/fuse mounts? I see the door sound deadening fernando does, do you need to put any by the amp or just speakers?

Ok now questions related to parts I need to order for my set up. Ok so i'm going with the Maestro RR & GM3+ & SAT1. I already got the GM antenna adapter and will prob get the xm 300 free with head unit. With maestro do i need the Metra Backupcam-3? What about Microbypasses not sure what automatic video in motion is? Do i need the Pac USB-GM1 oem usb port retention what is that for exactly, my truck has like 7 usb ports in it, 3 cig lighter ports, a 110 volt, aux jack input and sd card input.

Ok now the components and install. For my head unit its between Kenwood DDX9904s/9903s (i prefer the 9903s cause has hdmi port, any other hardware or software differences price is $150 less for older 1) or Pioneer 4201/4200 nex i know the only difference is the camera (Will it work for a front camera?) I would probably only buy the pioneer because I can use my best buy card so give me an extra 6 months vs buying everything on paypal card but i spend 150-200 more to get that extra time. I will be using Android Auto since I have samsung. Will use Bluetooth as well. Eventually setting up a rear video entertainment. For my amp its between Alpine PDX-v9 (2010 technology) cost me $175 more than the Pioneer GM-D9605 which i can buy at BB for 250, alpine is still 700 at BB so i buy online for just over $400. Ok so for the amps I just run RCA straight from deck to amp. What about speaker wire should I run all new wire? or what about the 9 conductor speed wires from amp to dash/kick panel and tap in somewhere (or do i tap into maestro harness? At the doors should I cut off the factory connector and new wire or buy these American Intl SH3802 harness connector (inexpensive and sometimes free).

For sub i'm doing a single kicker solo baric 8" with a Rodney Sealed GMC 2014+ console sub box $160 after ship (JL fiberglass one more than i want to spend). Now for the door speakers Its really between the Kicker KSS 6.75/6.5 (2017/16 models) and Alpine R-Series (2017/ previous model)... Originally i was going to do component in front and coaxial in back, saw a video were did component all 4 corners should I go that route? I am going to put front tweeter in dash were factory 2.75" is do I run all new wire from crossover to it or tap into the factory wire for 2.75" or? K I can buy both newer speakers at best buy. My price point with sub box, if i buy previous year models Its $320/375 kicker/alpine respectively and would buy the sub/alpine combo. Option 2 has buying sub & component from best buy new 2017 Kicker sub/component buy 1 get 1 50% and for coax kicker 2017/16/alpine16 (505/470/460), option 3 buy 2016 sub online but buy both new 2017 alpines from Best buy $650. You can ignore the price point options but if want to suggest a combo either 17/16 sub is there a difference and then either both kicker/alpine or kicker component and alpine coax or if you said go both component above.

I'll be getting the Metra 82-3005 speaker adapter for front and Scosche SAGMHR-634 for back doors.Last part is wiring. Depending on answer about the 9 conductor speaker wire could influence decision. But everything i'm looking at is complete OFC with 6 channels of RCA, some are complete with speaker and some are not. Stinger 4000 ($79), 6000 (124), Kicker/Rockford (94), NVX (82), Stinger Select w 4-4000 dunno if the 2 SS are OFC (69), Rockville (65), Kunkonceptz (80) with all the prices so close coming down to quality/supplies and if 6000 series is worth the 30-50 more over others. For the 9 conductor at 20' have stinger (23), Metra (22), Voodoo (16), and a no name 100% ofc only 15 ft (14). Last questions should i get a hdmi male female extension and mount on dash or console? Will I need a mini A/V jack and video rca cable? Want to try and do it all at once. For remote power wire what should i buy or just install it to a fuse in factory fuse box? Oh one last speaker question do I need rca splitters or rca to speaker wire converter for anything? Thank you so much for your time if have a paypal i can send some money. ill email this as well.

thank you for you expertise.

[Ichie123]

I'll answer what I can... there's a lot of questions up there lol.

 

As far as wiring your speakers in the past while using 9conductor ive wired it

Radios harness to the amp

Amp to the metra harness (or whatever harness you're using for the factory side)

 

It's twice as much wire but a lot cleaner. Utilizes the factory wiring. Now if you're wanting the absolute best performance out your speakers you would run all new wires.

 

As far as cutting the factory harness on the speakers. That's totally up to you. In resistance views, the less connections made the better. I myself cut mine and go straight to the speaker. Unless you plan on putting the factory speakers back in just save the few bucks and cut em.

 

Speakers. The soundstage is really for the driver. It's your truck. Typically you would want components in the front coax in the back.

 

 

As for your remote turn on wire I tapped into the ignition wire at the BCM so that when the vehicle is in accessory it won't turn the amps on.

 

You shouldn't need any rca splitters or wire converters if you're doing everything aftermarket.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[offroad_racer]

Hi thank you. I think u were saying that to run the 9 conductor to the idatalink maestro harness? the remote turn on, what is BCM im guessing control module. What are the things called that people use instead of going into a fuse.... i dont think its worth running all new wire, its a new truck. I think a good 9 conductor and good sound deadening and should be real nice

[offroad_racer]

i just found this module remote turn on Pac TR-4...found others a nvx one but says for adding to a factory system so im guessing i dont want that

[offroad_racer]

i just saw this pac tr1 video in motion, im guessing u buy this so u can play video while moving, player has some kind of lock in it?

[Ichie123]

Depends on your radio if you want video in motion. I think the kenwoods all you need to do is fround the parking brake wire. Alpine you have to use a module like the PAC TR-7. Pioneers are kinda hit and miss. I believe the older units you can ground out but the newer ones require a module. I've been out of the installation world for a couple years so I can't say 100% for pioneers.

 

 

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[offroad_racer]

So I am nearly done with my install.

 

Bought and doing entire install myself with my pops

 

2017 Kenwood DDX9904s head unit

2017 Kenwood DRV-N520 dash cam

2017 Alpine X-A90v 5 channel amp (a last minute change from the pdx-v9)

Idatalink Maestro RR smart harness and module

Idatalink Maestro GM3 harness

Idatalink Maestro SAT1 factory satelite antenna adapter

Best BAA22 FM Antenna Adapter for newer GM vehicles

2017 JL Audio C1-690 6x9 components

2017 JL Audio C1-650x 6x5 coax

2016 Kicker Solobaric 8" subwoofer

Rodney Subboxes center console box

Stinger Sk4641 4000 series power amp kit with 2 chl rca

Stinger 4000 series 4 channel rca

Sound Quest 2 farad capcitor

Ballistic 20sq ft sound deadener kit

Metra 99-3014G Dash Kit

Metra 82-3004 6x9 front speaker adapter

Scosche SAGMHR634 rear 6.5 spear adapter

Alpine Rux-Knob

FAST Rings for 6x9 & 6.5

Axxess Gmausbaux 6 ft usb console knockout (changes sd card to hdmi)

75 feet OFC 16 gauge speaker wire

10 feet OFC 12 gauge speaker wire

Wireless car charger for console modification

Wireless car charger hardwire to tap into console cig lighter

Energizer 500w power inverter

 

Cables & adapters for setting up the console knockout, monitor, game system, etc: (all gold plated)

Isimple medialink (hdmi female to rca male)

3.5mm male to 3x splitter 3.5mm female

2x 3.5mm male to rca red/white female splitter

3.5mm male to audio video rca females red/white/yellow

3.5mm male to 3.5mm female extension

Male AV RCA's R/W/Y extension to Female AV RCAs

 

Install supplies:

12x36" 1/4" ABS plastic sheet

Tesa Tape cloth rolls

Tesa 4965 double sided tape

JVCC 1/4"wide foam tape

Dynatape roll

Sound Deadener roller

Panel clip removal tool

PET Expandable sleeves in 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4"

Heat Shrink & Solder

Ferules 4 gauge, and 12-22gauge

 

 

I still need to decide on flip down or head rest screens so I can play my game system on long trips. I have a ps2 slim with some classic ps1 and ps2 rpgs, or im considering my ps3 and putting several downloaded games on it so discs not needed. I have the rear seat air mattress set up.

 

The head unit has 3 inputs in the AV in jack (one of which I have open, which really dont need cause i have the center console one as open, i may cut it down to 2 (the hdmi and aux jack in console).. It also has video out, which will go to whatever monitor i get. Ill use a signal amplifier if I go headrests,

[Erion109]

I know this post is a little old, but do you happen to have any install pics to share?