Jump to content

Top Parking Light off, But Still Blinks


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi guys, first post after lurking for a while now, and it's a real head scratcher for me.

 

Happened to park in front of a glass window the other day, and noticed the passenger side top parking light was out.  Went and got a new bulb to replace it, and (after snaking my oversize hand through that cutout and a minor cuss fit) thought it was a done deal, but noticed again yesterday that it isn't working all the time.  Specifically, it:

1) comes on when I click the remote to lock or unlock, but after it blinks twice like all the others do, it goes off and the other 3 stay on;

2) when I crank the truck, it stays off while the other 3 are still on;

3) will blink normally if the right turn signal is on.

 

I called myself checking the fuses, and either didn't check the correct one or it isn't associated with a fuse issue.  Tried searching for an answer, and was unable to find anything quite like this.  Anyone got an easy answer?   Or even a hard answer?

Posted

First dbl check you got the right bulb # then try pulling the bulb out and turn it 180 reinstall, then try another bulb to make sure you didn’t get a dud (or the one from the other side) , and if it still don’t work you’ll need to check the socket with a test light for constant power with the lights on. 

 

The bulb has 2 filaments one for the blinker and one for the running light that’s why the blinker works.

Posted

Thanks for your reply, I will get back in there and check on it.  

 

After going through all of this hassle, makes me wonder if I'd be better off to just put some LEDs in and call it good.  The engineer who came up with this access point needs a firm kick in the taint....

Posted

Update, went back and reversed the bulb as suggested, swapped out bulb to another new one, neither helped.  

Posted

Got fed up and went back out tonight.  Removed the grill and lower valance (terminology?), then the right headlight.  Cleaned everything off on the wiring harness, lots of grime but nothing obvious.  Did note that there was an extra twist in the wiring between upper and lower running lights, hence the reason I had so much trouble exteriorizing it at the outset of this debacle.  

 

After disassembly of everything I plugged the main harness back in and went thru every bulb, every direction possible.  When I finally got back to the OEM bulb (the one originally not working), it worked just right.  Unplugged it and tried the new bulbs, no go.  Old bulb again, yes.  New bulb(s), no.  Reassembled it all, tried it every possible way, worked fine.  

 

So, no idea what was wrong with the original bulb initially, but I suspect a short or either debris at some point that I shook loose with relentless anal retentive repetition of bulb rotation.  If it's a short, I'll soon see it and report back.  Thanks for all input and assistance.

Posted

BTW, it was the Sylvania 7443 bulb 2 pack from Autozone that won't work with mine.  No idea if that's a one-off or what.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,950
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Policeoff01
    Newest Member
    Policeoff01
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 788 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • On 2021 3500hd it consistently sets automatically when selecting park if the incline/decline is above a certain angle. 
    • Curious, did anyone ever get a fix for the vibration reported here.   I have a 2024 Silverado with 6.6 duramax.   I’m noting the same vibration resonating up through the steering shaft into the steering wheel.    Best way to describe- like someone is tapping on the steering shaft/components and it’s resonating into the steering wheel.    thanks. 
    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...