Firestone Ride-Rite - Random Thoughts

[Zasker1]

So I've had my rear airbags installed for about 4 years now and I thought I would share some observations while also soliciting some opinions from others that have these installed

 

Comments:

1. 4 years of mixed usage with zero problems or air leaks.

 

2. when running without a trailer I find that I must have at least 12psi of pressure otherwise the ride quality is terrible as they seem to counteract the rear shocks (5100's)

 

I think part of my challenge is striking the balance between my 5100 in the front that are set on the 2nd snap ring. I think I'm going to change them to the third snap ring in the near future, and see if that makes a difference in the overall ride quality

 

3. With an empty trailer such as my dump trailer or flatbed I find 25psi is perfect. Bass boat is 20psi

 

4. With 5000 pounds of gravel in my dump trailer 40psi seems to be the optimal setting.

 

5. When pulling my Outback 250rs travel trailer I find that I must increase the air pressure to 50 - 60psi.

 

But this is subjective as it is highly dependent on how I have my trailer loaded down in conjunction with my WD hitch.

 

I still have not found the perfect combination between my WD hitch and the airbags what I have found is it is far better to set the WD hitch and then adjust the air pressure accordingly, again this would be way more convenient if I had bought the onboard air compressor and monitoring system.

 

2. I regret not paying extra for the onboard air compressor as it does prove overtime to be inconvenient to always be adjusting the air valves which I mounted as licence plate bolts.

 

3. At 80 psi my truck reminds me of a 70s muscle car with its ass in the air LMAO!!!!!

 

 

 

Anyone else want to share some thoughts or opinions?

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

 

[NoLand]

I would echo most of your thoughts. I usually run 15-20 unloaded and 50-60 when pulling my travel trailer. I also don’t have an onboard compressor but instead use a Viair compressor and a 7-pin to 12-volt plug to air them up. Kind of a pain, but not too big of a deal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[pronstar]

I had bags on my last truck.
The Airlift Wireless setup with remote tank/compressor was awesome.

You press a button to air up to whatever psi you program, and never have to think about it until you air back down.

And because it’s wireless to the cab, installation is super easy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Kubs]

I have only had mine for a few months, but I agree with most of your statements.  The major difference is the psi for each load.  Do you have the NHT Max Trailering package?  Mine does, and it must be the heavier springs.  I too run around 10-12 psi unloaded just because it states to have at least 5psi in the instructions and I thought 10 was a good number.  Not much difference in ride with my Bilstein 5100's.  I too mounted my valves as my license plate bolts.

IMG_20180511_180815496 by Mike Kubiak, on Flickr

 

I tow a race car on an open steel trailer.  Tongue weight with that is about 600lbs, plus about 800-1000 lbs of fuel, tools, spares, etc in the bed.  I only need 30-35psi to level the truck back out (my bilsteins are on the top setting in the front).  I also do not have a WD hitch.  

 

I dont have the on board compressor either, since I usually have air bottles with me when I am towing the race car.  However, if I did have an on board compressor I wouldn't have to carry the air bottles to the track.  I dont mind setting the pressure as its just one of those things to check when hooking everything up and preparing to tow.

 

Here is a picture of it leveled back out with all that weight.

IMG_20180601_140227534_HDR[1] by Mike Kubiak, on Flickr

[NoLand]

Yeah, I don’t have the max towing package so that could account for the PSI difference when loaded.

I really wish I would’ve seen those trick air valves/license plate mounts before I installed mine. I drilled a hole through the plastic part of the bumper next to my plate, but that’s much cleaner solution.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kubs]

I saw a friend of mine put air valves through his license plate years ago, I just copied the idea.

 

The kit only gives you enough nuts to mount the valve through the bumper (1 nut on each side).  I ordered an extra set of valves off Amazon so I could have extra nuts, so my license plate is sandwiched between the nut holding the valve on and the outer nut.  This way I can take the plate off (for whatever reason) without undoing the valves.