Jump to content

Swapping out GM performance muffler


Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone swapped out the muffler in the factory performance exhaust?

 

I was thinking I could use a Dynomax 17517 muffler and have an extension made to take up the difference in OAL. It just seems that 3.5” exhaust pipe in stainless is tough to find without paying out the nose for it.

 

 

Posted

Any 3.5” straight through muffler will work but you will need to cut and weld pipe to connect it since the GM/Borla Muffler is longer then most aftermarket mufflers

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Installed the 17517 muffler tonight and half assed mocked up the exhaust to see how it sounded.

At WFO it sounds about the same or a little louder but at cruising speeds it’s definitely louder.

I’m going to see if I can come up with some 3.5” tubing tomorrow locally and fully hook it up. If so, I’ll snag some video of it.

The new muffler is 1/2 the size of the GMPP unit.

Posted

26d6d7c2d72bfed25f749f7797c5db95.jpg

Muffler differences. I put the GMPP muffler back on and had to order some 3.5” pipe since no one local seems to keep that size. I’ll report back once I get it all hooked up and routed out the back vs. just dumping out under the truck.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Got this put in tonight finally. Overall it’s a nice improvement. Sound follows the GMPP profile but louder more of the time. You can definitely hear the DFM or deceleration or something along those lines but zero drone at 70-80 MPH.


I need to upload my warm start clip and post here.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,738
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Mistycool
    Newest Member
    Mistycool
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,679 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I am having similar issues.. 08, 4.8L granted I did had a fender bender and minor damage up front passenger side but I don’t think it had anything to do with it.. I had the high and low pressure checked and my fan for my radiator keeps coming on.. replaced the pressure switch and don’t want to keep throwing parts at it. I did have some minor problems here and there like on long road trips sometimes the ac would get a little warm and then on the highway as soon as I give it a little gas or get a little heavier on the petal it started running cooler. Never had an issue with the ac besides the here and there.. but I also started having issues when I fuel up now it takes a bit to start ( super embarrassing) it runs fine and once started ( only happens after fueling up) starts fine any other time. Could they be related?
    • Spent a small fortune on fuel this weekend.   $6.69 diesel, 18 gallons of that. $6.99 92-octane ethanol free, 10 gallons of that for yard machines $5.59 87-octane for one of the cars, 11 gallons.   $250+ and I didn't even get a tug.   Hormuz ain't Hormuzin again, did not see that coming...LOL
    • Appreciate the advice. I've watched multiple videos. Most showing the most complex for those that have a center console, to one that showed maybe 2 pieces of trim being removed, like 6 screws, pulling back the screen and switch assembly, and installing the inline module. And this was a new/newer Silverado. That didn't look too bad. All the others show alot of trim pieces that need to be removed. I've broken those kind of tabs/clips on my C8 Corvette trying to get to the battery, and that was a lot less clips than what I think is involved here after watching multiple videos and looking at my dash today. I have one on the way. Called a reputable stereo place about installing it and got a "minimum" price of $175. Ouch! Looking forward to seeing what the instructions have to say.
    • Hard to say what the issue might be. Anything from the ability to cool the AC condenser up front, to blend door issues in the HVAC unit, to refrigerant charge, to compressor issues or issues in the lines.   Report back what the techs find on the 29th.   GM has service publications which list acceptable vent temperatures and AC pressures at given ambient temps and humidity. They probably won't touch the system if it's operating within those ranges.   I'm also surprised to hear your 2024 with the L8T is still using R134a? I was pretty sure the HD's had switched to the new refrigerant around 2020.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...