Jump to content

Can I talk Sh*t her about Yukon XL'S ?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Got my new 04 Yukon Xl today, 4:10 gears, 8.1 motor, like the offline preformance up to about 30 mph but it sucks after that. Of course I only have 80 miles on it, but what can I look forward to do on the simple side to increase torque? Thought I had it covered by ordering, but maybe not. FYI, just didn't want a diesel burner, have 1800 of those class 8's to worry about everyday , didn't want anymore. By the way, the Bose stereo in the YuK BLOWS away the Bose in my 02 vette.

(So far the DIC says I am getting 8.5mpg) Oh Well, What me Worry!! Was not lookin to get Civic.

Posted

Nice.

 

I don't believe the oil burner is even an option in a Yukon XL.

 

As to it petering out, it shouldn't. But there have been varying results from owners. Mine is one that runs super strong no matter what.

 

AS to mods, check out sponsors such as Tbyrnemotorsports.com He has a Whipple charge 8.1L 'Burb and an 8.1L 2500HD. Look for simple bolt on stuff like cold air kits, exhausts, etc to help.

Posted

Your MPG's will get better when it's broken in. Also, you probably shouldnt be testing the performance (romping on it) until it is broken in!!! I especially wouldnt haul anything with it until you have it semi-broken in. The break in period is essential to how it will perform later.

 

:thumbs:

Posted

My buddy has the 8.1L 4L80/85E combo in his 2500 Avalanche. He put the Westers PCM in it and it brought it to life. (He has the 150'+ black strips in front of his house to prove it!!!)

Posted

There's nothing wrong with that approach. I prefer the easy break in, but I know people who pull out of our lot with the tires a blazing, sooo... :D

Posted
With normal driving, how many miles for a 8.1 to be "broke in" :D:confused:

The line the stealer gave me was that GM "pre" runs the motor to reduce the break in period. :smash: I still took it easy the first 500 miles tho.

Posted

I understood very clearly from the dealer not to pull weight and dont drive it like you are qualifying for the Daytona 500 for the first 500 to 1000 miles. I dont mean driving it like you are driving miss daisy, but not FREAKIN pounding on it, and racing other trucks off the line. You are supposed to drive it at regular posted speeds and dont keep it at one speed, vary your speed up and down on the freeway and stuff. BUT I am sure there are people who get it home with 5 miles on it and pull their 15,000 pound trailers and dont have problems YET. I am just making sure that my engine is seated properly and is prime for the long run!! BUT WHO AM I?????

Posted
Got my new 04 Yukon Xl today,.........

Not to be anal, but Yukon more properly qualifies as a topic on the Light Duty board.

 

Regards,

 

Hans

Posted

As far as break ins go, I run mine like norman for the first 500 miles or so. Once I break past 500, I give it several good hard accelerations, starting from around 20 mph and hold it up to about 90. I do this 8-10 times, to get the block good and hot, other than that I drive it normal. I've done this on the last 6 vehicles that Ive owned, and they have run flawlessly. My dad taught me this method for breaking in the motors, and he's been using it for over 25 years.

 

Hope that Helps!

Posted

Never mind on my comments last night about it not running good, I have not flogged it yet, but it is running really, really strong. What a blast/change from my old 5.3! Put another 100 miles on it today.

I got the link to this Forum from a guy on the C5 Forum, if I am in the wrong place no problem. Looks like a real good site.

Posted
I got the link to this Forum from a guy on the C5 Forum, if I am in the wrong place no problem. Looks like a real good site.

Don't wory about it, you posted inthe right place. :D

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,863
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Bulldogger
    Newest Member
    Bulldogger
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 828 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks, so being a different beast altogether, anyone know what the "optimal" temp is for the 10L80/90 for proper shifting?
    • How many years have I pointed out every point in that link to the folks here and been avalanched with criticisms and outright hostilities at times? I ran counter to even the great CUSTOMBOSS and Lake Speed Jr and the half dozen experts on YouTube and in the final.....GM, Physics (Stribeck) backs that Grumpy old Bear.    Honestly, I never said a thing engineering hadn't studied silly and laid in concrete during WWII. But I'm old, the information is old and yet, the Laws of Physics are eternal.    Okay there is one exception. I vehemently disagree with their use of the word 'tolerances' when what it meant is "clearance".   The clearance is the distance between two objects. The tolerance is the degree of acceptable variation permitted in that clearance. I.E., piston to bore clearance is 0.004" with a tolerance of +/- .0002" so the clearance is in specification if it lies between 0.0038" and 0.0042". Cutting that 'tolerance in half has ZERO impact on lubrication requirements. Makes for more difficulty in manufacturing.  But a tighter clearance 'MAY'. Depends on finish. Anyway....   It's one of those statements made by people to make themselves look smarter than they are to convince people who are as un-enlighten as they seem to manipulate their behaviors. But hey, the blind leading the blind puts them both in the pit. 
    • Out and about yesterday on a long Saturday drive I passed a lot of Shell stations. My preferred, so I pay attention. Lot's of small town Illinois so not six stations in three blocks like the city.    Everyone of them over a radius of say 100 miles had regular at $4.19 but one which was the one closest to home at $4.15. However Premium pricing varied greatly between 85 cents over regular to $1.50 over. I'm not counting the price of the station with the lowest regular so the reference is the same for the remainder and all within the same brand. However the spread discrepancy holds across all brands.     @txab, any thoughts on that? 
    • What are your thoughts? The Chevy Blazer relaunch was an epic case of 'lunchbag letdown'. Jeep Wranglers and Ford Broncos stick out like a sore thumb.    The AI photos do not look like a 'retro version', but shrunken Tahoes. Get away from the 'futuristic look'. I've seen two concepts. One had rectangular headlight like a Rivian and the other way too big headlights (similar to a previous non-Wrangler SUV) should include dual round headlights like the early version.   If not this would look OK   At least it has GM styling (albeit the K2XX) A lot of the images floating around look like Bronco IIs or the current Bronco. Looking at the Broncos in my area (central Ontario, it seems to be a mix of 2 doors and 4 doors, 'mall rated' to ones that could go offroad.    I'm sure a AT4 and AT4X RPOs could be outfitted similar to a Rubicon if the braintrust understood the whole offroad scene. Crossing my fingers that if it does see the light that the front air dam/bumper doesn't extend below the center line of the tire...      
    • I saw this news earlier this year:   https://theautowire.com/2026/06/12/gm-kills-off-chevys-biggest-silverado-trucks-as-sales-collapse-and-factory-fallout-spreads/
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...