Jump to content

No crank problem


442olds

Recommended Posts

Posted

    I have a 2018 Silverado 4x4 with 5.3.

 For the last few months,particularly when it is less than 25 degrees,my truck will not crank and all lights on the dash are out.

   I am out of warranty at 43,000 miles.

 I put a new battery on thinking it might be the issue,but that wasn't it.

  A couple times,I have left my truck at the dealer and they think I am nuts,because it always starts for them.

  But it did it again twice today. It will always start,but sometimes,it takes 5-6 turns of the key.

  There have been times where my truck will not start using the APP on my phone,so I kind of don't think it is an ignition switch issue.If it was the starter,why has it always been fine in warmer weather of 40 degrees or more?

 I'm kind of thinking a battery cable issue or something now.Has anyone ever had an issue like this?So far,it always has started,but you do lose confidence after turning the key multiple times and not even hearing a "click".

 

 

Posted
    I have a 2018 Silverado 4x4 with 5.3.
 For the last few months,particularly when it is less than 25 degrees,my truck will not crank and all lights on the dash are out.
   I am out of warranty at 43,000 miles.
 I put a new battery on thinking it might be the issue,but that wasn't it.
  A couple times,I have left my truck at the dealer and they think I am nuts,because it always starts for them.
  But it did it again twice today. It will always start,but sometimes,it takes 5-6 turns of the key.
  There have been times where my truck will not start using the APP on my phone,so I kind of don't think it is an ignition switch issue.If it was the starter,why has it always been fine in warmer weather of 40 degrees or more?
 I'm kind of thinking a battery cable issue or something now.Has anyone ever had an issue like this?So far,it always has started,but you do lose confidence after turning the key multiple times and not even hearing a "click".
 
 
Maybe the new battery is faulty. When I bought my 2014 Silverado the morning after I brought it home it wouldn't start. While on the line with On Star setting up a tow I tried it and it started. Went to work came out no start. Got a jump went to dealer they tested the battery and it was bad.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Posted

My 2015 acted like a dead battery, but would start strong after a few attempts, ended up replacing the starter.

Posted
6 hours ago, Beer Belly said:

My 2015 acted like a dead battery, but would start strong after a few attempts, ended up replacing the starter.

    If you don't mind me asking,was this in colder weather?

 

 The reason that I ask is that this issue only seems to happen with a temperature of 25 degrees F or less.And SO FAR,it always starts,but definitely gets your attention as to who am I going to call for a tow.It will be totally dead for 5-6 cranks of the key,and then it fires up strong.Usually,it is only on the first start of the day,but yesterday,it did it after the vehicle was already started and warmed up,but it was less than 30 degrees outside air temperature.

Posted

Yes, it was in January of last year if I remember correctly. They told me it was the battery and I kept telling them the truck starts strong when it does start, check the Starter. I did allow them to replace the battery because it was a little over 3 years old, and as soon as I got it home, it wouldn't restart.....finally got it started and this time, they diagnosed the Starter, which I repeatedly asked them to check. ON EDIT: When it failed, it would just give one "Click", and not turn over.

Posted
2 hours ago, Beer Belly said:

Yes, it was in January of last year if I remember correctly. They told me it was the battery and I kept telling them the truck starts strong when it does start, check the Starter. I did allow them to replace the battery because it was a little over 3 years old, and as soon as I got it home, it wouldn't restart.....finally got it started and this time, they diagnosed the Starter, which I repeatedly asked them to check. ON EDIT: When it failed, it would just give one "Click", and not turn over.

     When it happens to me,I am not even hearing a click.It will act like there is no battery at all.But I appreciate your feedback,as I was thinking of trying a starter.I have been hearing of issues with the small positive battery cable in the distribution block on top of the battery.That is something I might try first,because it is easier to change than a starter.

Posted

Well,it did it again yesterday.No start.I had my wife get inside and I went underneath.I was hearing a loud thud by the starter.I gave it a tap with a hammer and it started right up.Now the starter does seem to be the logical thing.But the problem now is that I was told I need 12695760 .Nobody seems to have this starter in stock and nobody even knows when it will be back in stock.

Posted

There are companies that rebuild starters, locally to me you can have one rebuilt in few hours once you drop it off.

See if thats an option, you can remove it yourself (if possible) and be moving again later that day.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,978
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    rayredbone
    Newest Member
    rayredbone
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 504 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
    • Thank You.   So far my new ride is making me look like a genius for going with the 3.0L, as my first fuel refill occurred over three weeks from when I took delivery.  This engine combination is very amazing.  So far no issues and had not done a regen yet.
    • I am curious as to how much fluid you put back in the transmission ( assuming you had replaced the filter to compare to my findings ) and then went through the process of warming up the trans before pulling the check plug to drain out the excess and if you measured how much came back out.    I just found it surprising that some claimed a certain amount less fluid being put in and then draining some back out. The attitude of the truck as per if the surface is level and how the trucks stance is would make quite a difference since the check plug is right at the front of the transmission. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...