Jump to content

Battery Distribution Block Additional Studs

PaulpHebert
 Share

Recommended Posts

PaulpHebert Enthusiast

PaulpHebert

Posted
Posted

I am looking at installing some electrical components on my 2020 Silverado RST.  In looking at the battery distribution center on top of the battery, I have a few empty slots, some with a separation about the equivalent of an ANL fuse and Mini ANL fuse.  Does anyone know where I can get these studs that slide into the brackets?  I have asked my dealer, and no one knows what hey are called or where to get them.  I just feel that using these spots, all installations will look clean and almost like OEM.

Battery Distribution.jpg

  • 6 months later...
Chet Enthusiast

Chet

Posted
Posted

You could try replacing the 12v distribution plate w/ the 2.7l turbo's part.  The 2.7 has OEM posts at the extra locations, with fuses.  It uses only 1 of the additional three fuses (it uses the 80amp one).  BUT, you might still be stuck looking for two additional posts.  here's a picture from my 2019 2.7l .  I use one of these extra posts w/100 amp fuse to run an inverter, but I still will put a 60amp fuse after the 100amp, because if the 100amp blows, then it looks like I have to replace the entire plate. 

 

 

IMG_20201009_161046.thumb.jpg.22f3f7a72c1b173a87f2e009803f53d2.jpg

  • 2 years later...
Paul Osterdahl New Member

Paul Osterdahl

Posted
Posted

Sorry to bring up an old thread. I am in the process of adding some LED strips to the bed of my 2019 Silverado and am going to be running 12 volt power from the battery back to the bed. Under the batter cover within the distribution block there is already a space accessory stud/terminal. Could this be repositioned and then used to mount the ring terminals for 12 volt power? Also, would it be fine to have the wires coming off the terminal to have an inline fuse on the battery end rather than connecting the additional stud with a fuse? It looks like there is an exact spot to relocate this additional terminal to and all that would be needed is the nut and a washer to go on top. I stole a screen shot of the above photo to indicate what I am talking about.

 

Thanks in advance for any help!

Screenshot 2023-04-18 at 12.57.09 PM.png

  • 10 months later...
Mikec57 New Member

Mikec57

Posted
Posted

Does anyone know where the number one wire leads to? I’ve had to replace my distribution block two times now within a year and the number one is the one that keeps blowing. 2020 Silverado lt 2.7

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 year later...
Frederick Vobbe Enthusiast

Frederick Vobbe

Posted
Posted

I know it's an old topic, but just wondering if you got any closure on this.

 

I'm still looking for the square head bolts that go through the assembly which to attach your cable to.

GETGONE Enthusiast

GETGONE

Posted
Posted

Even if you find them, it's not going to do you any good as you also need the top plate which is riveted in place. Only other option is to drill a hole in the existing metal plate and then run a fuse of whatever kind there and bolt it to the plate. I have a winch I'm going to be installing and have been trying to figure out how to wire it and include a 500 amp circuit breaker.

rbau Enthusiast

rbau

Posted
Posted (edited)

GM sells this kit, part number 84669070, that adds a couple fused studs on the 'Battery Distribution Unit'.  It is included with the Upfitter Switch kit and as part of the 'Snow Plow Prep' option.  There is a Tech Bulletin explaining the kit.

 

Upfitter Tech Bulletin 147b

BDU Kit.jpg

Edited by rbau
Edit to add image of kit.
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...