Jump to content

misfire


Recommended Posts

Posted

I started having trouble with my truck the other day. It seems to be misfiring and I don't really know why.

 

I get the flashing service engine soon message on the dash. but then it just stops.

 

I looked in the manual. it isn't the gas cap.

 

Will a diagnostics test be able to locate the exact problem or is it going to be a waste of money considering I already know that it is misfiring.

 

thanks

Posted

Well, the flashing indicator means a misfire in progress. If the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) stays off otherwise, the fault is clearing itself. Could be as simple as a plugged fuel filter or a tank of bad gas.

 

All OBD2 engines must maintain a misfire history. You will then see if the misfire history is constant across all cylinders, or if one or two have all the misfires.

 

I'm guessing it's out of warranty?

 

Wouldn't hurt to pull one of the plugs and examine it. Since the Vortec has aluminum heads, and they put the plugs in dry with no anti-seize, that might be tough. Hey, I warned ya!

Posted

Scott.. Which engine is in your truck... ??

 

If you have a V-6 your cap and rotor have become Contaminated with corrosion because of excess moisture.

Posted
I started having trouble with my truck the other day. It seems to be misfiring and I don't really know why.

 

I get the flashing service engine soon message on the dash. but then it just stops.

 

I looked in the manual. it isn't the gas cap.

 

Will a diagnostics test be able to locate the exact problem or is it going to be a waste of money considering I already know that it is misfiring.

 

thanks

As said above, check your fuel filter, cap and rotor (if you have them) and you may want to check your spark plugs, the gap from the factory in my last two Vettes and my Escalade was way off (to big)

Posted

I can really feel this misfire though. it has only done it the once and it was after a road trip(500 miles nonstop - fuel stop). the symptom was not just the misfire being reported but the truck was actually rocking back and forth. I drove it down the block to see if it would stop, and it did. but for about the first 200 or so yards the motor would only respond in a sporadic fashion to the gas pedal.

 

I am taking it in today to get looked at.

Posted

By the way...Most auto parts stores will read those codes for free.

 

At least they will around here, but you should call ahead and ask. :devil:

Posted

I may check that out because I decided to not take my truck in until thursday. So like NAPA, Pep Boys, or Auto Zone may check it for free. If anybody else knows just drop a line.

 

thanks

Posted

OK you have the Vortec 4.8. That means no distributor cap, as you have Coil Per Cylinder.

 

Whenever the Malfunction Indicator Lamp flashes, it's detecting a misfire. Depending on whether a Drive Cycle can clear it, the lamp may remain on or stay off. Since you still have the misfire condition, it's important to fix this soon or the O2 sensors and/or cats could fail.

 

I don't think those cheap code scanners can retrieve cylinder data and Misfire History. Autotap scanners should be able to retreive the Misfire History, and the OTC Tech2/Pathfinder/Genisys is GM-Certified to retrieve all the extended GM data.

 

Don't forget the basics like fuel pressure. Since it's so easy to check fuel pressure on the truck (Schraeder valve on the pass-side fuel rail) this should also be looked at. FYI 55-64 lbs is normal range.

 

Good luck and let us know what the results are.

Posted

Look along the passenger side fuel rail. Near the front of the rail is a Schraeder valve (Like on a bicycle tire). You need a fuel pressure gage with a flexible high-pressure hose and a Schraeder fitting to screw into the fuel rail.

 

I got mine at NAPA 4 years ago, and recall paying $35 for it. There is also a bleed valve on the gage so you can aim the bleed into a small can and bleed down the fuel system residual pressure.

 

That makes changing the fuel filter one HECK of a lot safer! :devil: No more gas at 62 psi spraying all over the place!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...