Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am working on a 2 ¼" front lift on my 2018 Silverado.  I have purchased almost all the pieces to this puzzle.  I'm not using lift blocks, I got the Bilstein 5100 shocks that are longer and will do 1.85" of lift, and I will put in a ½" top spacer on the strut.  The problem with the upper control arm is the angle of the ball joint is stretched, and the new arm corrects the angle.

My question is what brand of upper control arm have others used?  I have searched and found so many.  A common problem I keep finding people have is with the ball joint breaking on these.  The ball joints shouldn't fail so quick.  I'd like to buy something more quality that I don't have to worry about it for 30,000-50,000 miles.  I don't go off roading, so I'm not concerned about rough driving abuse.  It appears to me that too many mid grade brands have paid off Google so better ones don't show up in any searches.  Looking for other choices.  Thanks

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Kryptonite.

$500

Lifetime warranty.6b0cfc1902f8b7bd8ac526fe85b2d667.jpg

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Jim Devaney, thanks for that.  I had not found that one, I think I like it.


Joey, I can't leave in stock.  I am doing some upgrades mostly to help the suspension for towing my camper trailer.  One of those upgrades will raise the rear end about 1 1/2", and then it will look pretty odd.  I have to raise the front to compensate.  The stock upper control arm doesn't like that angle of the ball joint when you raise the front end, so I need to replace it.  Thanks

Posted
On 12/13/2020 at 10:05 AM, Aaronjs777 said:

I am working on a 2 ¼" front lift on my 2018 Silverado.  I have purchased almost all the pieces to this puzzle.  I'm not using lift blocks, I got the Bilstein 5100 shocks that are longer and will do 1.85" of lift, and I will put in a ½" top spacer on the strut.  The problem with the upper control arm is the angle of the ball joint is stretched, and the new arm corrects the angle.

My question is what brand of upper control arm have others used?  I have searched and found so many.  A common problem I keep finding people have is with the ball joint breaking on these.  The ball joints shouldn't fail so quick.  I'd like to buy something more quality that I don't have to worry about it for 30,000-50,000 miles.  I don't go off roading, so I'm not concerned about rough driving abuse.  It appears to me that too many mid grade brands have paid off Google so better ones don't show up in any searches.  Looking for other choices.  Thanks

I have the Zone 2313 control arm installed on my 2018.  So far so good.  I have what equals out to a 2-5/8” lift.  I have bilstein 6112 set at the top setting and made custom 3/8” bottom spacers.

 

The upper control arm is nice and square to the spindle.  The cv axles that’s a different story,

to correct that, I put in 1/2” diff spacers to help.

 

In reference to what the OP is doing to his truck I beefed up the rear suspension with Zone Add a leaf and Monroe Load adjusting shocks.  It gave the rear about a 2” lift over factory 

 

  I have recently been researching the topic of the droop stop.  Since we are still working within the same operating envelope as stock.  We are putting the suspension near it’s “topped out” position.  With aftermarket arms they change the geometry to allow further travel.  The problem is the strut only goes so far.  

 

added pic since we are talking trucks 

 


 


 

 

 

FF529EED-502D-4DB6-8AEE-FCA6409A984B.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,211 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...