Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just thought I’d share my no drill install of my tekonsha prodigy p3 trailer brake in my 19 LT. Really wish I had the factory brake for cleanliness but nothing beats a p3.

 

I really wasn’t sure about permanent location and didn’t want to have a bunch of holes in my dash from trying to find out. I’m using the tekonsha p3 with the 3064p factory harness adapter and ended up on the right side above the accelerator, feels like enough room to move around comfortably though everyone’s different.

 

unfortunately it was not long enough to mount under the center of the dash here: cca6cfc73884118337afe06032feb97a.jpg

 

I then toyed with just drilling into the factory location plate as well since it would be replaceable, but again, the wiring was too short and would be a bit messy/visible. Still not a bad spot though if you’re less picky than me. 111a539c743e62f12f0d5402f52fb396.jpg

 

 

My install:

 

What I did was instead of drilling to the dash, I found a spare mounting hole attached to the back side of the dash above the accelerator. How sturdy is this? I’m not 100 percent sure yet but feels pretty good so far.

9c8366b5e5813737bfd4422cdac97b47.jpg

 

I then made an “adapter” from a scrap piece of birch I had using a 1/4”-20 threaded insert in the center and mounting the tekonsha bracket to one side. Note: the hole in the dash was a bit bigger than the threaded insert so I left it a little proud on top because of the thickness of my scraps.

 

c4bc6dd23ee9674b75df739f9d9729dd.jpg

 

Then just use a 1/4”-20 bolt and washer, come in from the top of the hole and and tighten. Tightening is a bit of a pain. I had to use a socket without the ratchet and hand tighten. A knuckle is needed for final tightening once you get it aiming forward.

 

And just tie up the harness to existing looms behind the dash and you’re done.

7f26dfe508377ef6563b8c6bc0710d7f.jpg

 

I also recommend vacuuming your floor mat first unless you don’t mind dirt all over your shirt. Lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Curious, did anyone ever get a fix for the vibration reported here.   I have a 2024 Silverado with 6.6 duramax.   I’m noting the same vibration resonating up through the steering shaft into the steering wheel.    Best way to describe- like someone is tapping on the steering shaft/components and it’s resonating into the steering wheel.    thanks. 
    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...