Jump to content

2018 Silverado Battery Change now having issues

9999usmc

By 9999usmc
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

9999usmc Enthusiast

9999usmc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Dealer troubleshooted said one of the fuse box wires on the tray that sits on top of the battery wasn’t connected.  I didn’t see any wires not connected when I check, but it’s working now and all is good.

  • Like 2
CrawlSlow Enthusiast

CrawlSlow

Posted
Posted (edited)

My guess is, it's probably post #1. That one has two cable connected to it. If you don't look carefully, you'll missed the second cable for sure, everything will look correct with just one cable until you starts poking around.

Edited by CrawlSlow
  • 4 weeks later...
jetcity2000 New Member

jetcity2000

Posted
Posted
On 9/18/2021 at 7:28 AM, 9999usmc said:

Yeah, checked.  Called dealer yesterday and asked if they have ever heard of something like this and got a quick, you can bring it in and we will run a diagnostic check….

 

saw a post on here who had same problem but he hasn’t replied if he got his issue fixed 

make sure you plug the light blue plug in below the pos post

 

  • 11 months later...
VERSE13 New Member

VERSE13

Posted
Posted (edited)

Awesome post, had the same issues after a battery change, help me out a lot. After searching I found this wire tucked away. Sure he forgot about it. 
 

 

F8DCDC17-240D-4E3C-8621-8A6D7AE0CC19.jpeg

Edited by VERSE13
  • 4 months later...
Topkicker Enthusiast

Topkicker

Posted
Posted

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this post with solid information and picture. I moved this 2nd cable way out the way while removing battery and overlooked it when going back together. Saved me a trip to the dealer! Just wanted to say THANKS!

  • Like 2
  • 1 year later...
Sney New Member

Sney

Posted
Posted
On 9/18/2021 at 8:04 AM, 9999usmc said:
My 2018 Chevy Silverado was fine until after AAA replaced my battery as it had a bad cell and wouldn’t keep a charge.  I watched them replace it and they did every correct (negative side first, etc).
Now my windows won't roll up or down,..ac stopped working, my radio screen is dark, only the left side turn signal works, no power door lock, no steering wheel controls…..
 
I checked all the fuses and nothing looks blown, I disconnected both terminals for a few hours and reconnected thinking something would reset, but no joy….
 
Any suggestions?
 

My 2018 1500 just did a similar thing. Battery is draining somehow and when i Jump it the passenger windows wont roll down, stereo wont work, ac wont work and only the left front blinker works, no brake lights. battery and alternator tested good. Please help?!?!?!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...