Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
Posted

Were you able to remove it? If so, how was it installed and how was it uninstalling it? Did they screw through the bed to hold it down? Want to take mine off and just want to know what I’m in for. Thanks I’m advance. 

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 10/20/2021 at 10:29 AM, DJ Pepe said:

New to the Forum.  I just bought a 2017 High Country with the High Desert Bed system and want to remove and Sell.. Any Suggestions?

IMG_4632.JPG

IMG_4627.JPG

Looking to buy parts if you still have them 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Hi, located in NJ. I'm taking mine off today and was hoping to find out how this gentleman took off the cover. Mines in good (not great) condition but works fine. Looking to sell if anyone's interested. I'm in NJ, so you'll have to come get it. 

  • 4 months later...
Posted
On 11/3/2021 at 8:21 PM, lovecars said:

Where are located??

Hey I’m  located in Albuquerque New Mexico and I have the whole High Desert package system available if interested let me know 

Posted
On 2/22/2023 at 6:56 PM, Adrian varela said:

Hey I’m  located in Albuquerque New Mexico and I have the whole High Desert package system available if interested let me know 

Can you tell me what is composed off?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Love cars,

The High Desert package consists of an electronic controlled magnetic ride control and what most people recognize is the bed system because it is the most noticeable. It is a complete drop in factory installed system that come with tool boxes 

(large beer coolers) down both sides that are very similar to the Chevy Avalanche. They both lock with the vehicle remote like the tailgate. It has three removable covers that allow for large cargo. It also has an area inside that raises to secure small or large cargo, depending on what side of the divider you put your cargo on. I believe it was only available in the 69 inch bed. It also has a support piece that runs up behind the cab, looks just like a Chevy Avalanche, that contains a third brake light.
I just purchased a 2017 High County, 6.2L with the High Desert package. No disrespect to anyones person opinion, but I don’t care for the Avalanche look. I plan on removing it this weekend. If anyone is interested I would like to trade for a nice trifold flat bed cover or sell it for enough to buy one. 
I know the High Desert package, with the ride control, was a $7000 add on. Seems pretty steep to me.

I am located in central Kansas and have many more pictures I just didn’t want to download them all because of file size.

53B85F51-BBB2-46A1-A021-D70EC3E003EF.jpeg

EC3692BB-B62E-4468-8C97-638E3707EED6.jpeg

548A12A8-7AA1-4E9E-A63E-A01B6C7A5520.jpeg

7E37C93D-9FC1-46F9-B15E-B5999FC97AA5.jpeg

C32F7FC1-4BB3-47E3-A8FA-E7F0293B0570.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, Daryl Davis said:

I will try and take pictures and give a brief explanation of the removal process if anyone is interested.

Yes please, always like to learn new things about the K2's.  

 

Thanks for your offer.

Posted (edited)

Think you will need some of the factory bed caps, otherwise you are going to just have the exposed bed tops.

Maybe a tailgate cap too?

Edited by JimCost2014

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...