Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
21 hours ago, richard wysong said:

How you making out?

SOLVED:

ended up pulling out the parts cannon and threw a new coil in it even though the old coil tested good, sure enough that’s what it was, the spark must have been just weak enough to not be able to gap the rotor to the points,

 

truck runs and drives now but still falls flat on its face if I’m idling at a stop light for more than 10 seconds, idles fine and there no cam timing codes, fuel pressure tested at 50 psi at idle, I’ll probably do new plugs because it’s been 50k since my last change and go from there, I’m living in the city during the week for school so I’ll live with it until the weekend

 

i should add that if I’m stopped and hold the break/gas so it stays around 1000rpm it won’t stumble, when the truck stumbles it’s so bad it seems it might stall right in the middle of the road

Posted

That could be the TPS or possibly a vacuum leak , if you have a scanner that does live data it will help with the diagnosis

Posted
Just now, richard wysong said:

That could be the TPS or possibly a vacuum leak , if you have a scanner that does live data it will help with the diagnosis

I had the scanner hooked up yesterday, tps readout seems good, bank 1&2 long term fuel trims we’re high while cruising. I didn’t check what it did when it was having the issue

Posted

That would indicate that it,s running lean so maybe a vacuum leak? Pull the PCV and the breather  from the valve covers and see if there's vacuum in the crankcase, maybe an intake gasket slipped out of place

Posted
2 minutes ago, richard wysong said:

That would indicate that it,s running lean so maybe a vacuum leak? Pull the PCV and the breather  from the valve covers and see if there's vacuum in the crankcase, maybe an intake gasket slipped out of place

Thats what Im beginning to think aswell. Sucks that all my tools are at home, I’ll try to get home tomorrow and do some digging. I’ll let you know what the results are

Posted
5 hours ago, kevin camps said:

Thats what Im beginning to think aswell. Sucks that all my tools are at home, I’ll try to get home tomorrow and do some digging. I’ll let you know what the results are

I managed to run home quick to run some tests, testing vacuum from the manifold it’s a steady 17inHg, increasing when i apply throttle, fuel trims slowly creep up after snapping the throttle, cleaned the mag sensors then all fuel trims are in spec, truck doesn’t stutter or bog when the maf is unplugged..

Posted (edited)

check for a leak between the MAF and the throttle body. There was a post a while ago of similar symptoms and the OP determined the cat was partialy clogged causing the stumble. That may not be your case where the vacuum increases with throttle though , You could remove an upstream 02 sensor to check the back pressure

Edited by richard wysong
Posted
5 minutes ago, richard wysong said:

check for a leak between the MAF and the throttle body. There was a post a while ago of similar symptoms and the OP determined the cat was partialy clogged causing the stumble. That may not be your case where the vacuum increases with throttle though , You could remove an upstream 02 sensor to check the back pressure

I will check for leaks Tomorrow, truck has headers and a full exhaust with no cats so it’s not a flow problem 

Posted
20 hours ago, kevin camps said:

I will check for leaks Tomorrow, truck has headers and a full exhaust with no cats so it’s not a flow problem 

Checked for vacuum leaks today, sprayed some ether by all the gaskets. Looks to be a tiny leak by the egr valve and next to the throttle body, I spent a hour getting all sorts of fuel trim readings so here’s the list

 

maf unplugged at idle fuel trims good

 

mag plugged back in, truck still running, fuel trims good maf reads 4.24g/second at idle

 

as long as the truck stays running since the maf was plugged back in the fuel trims stay good when driving
 

truck shut off and restarted with maf plugged in, fuel trims good, maf reading 9.05 at idle

 

drove around the block, maf plugged in, fuel trims very high, maf reading 4.62 at idle

 

I will get some gaskets on order and do new plenum, egr, and throttle body gaskets, plenum gaskets have been removed and reinstalled a fair few times so it could be leaking in the middle by the injectors aswell

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...