Front brake rotor tapped removal holes bolt size?

[Outdoors_Guy_88]

5 hours ago, 16LT4 said:

Put the caliper and wheel back on, install the lug nuts until  they contact the wheel, then back them off 0/5-1 turn.  Hop in the truck, put in gear, roll a few feet forward, and stab the brakes.  Repeat in reverse.  Jack up, remove wheel, remove caliper/bracket, and catch rotor as it falls off.  As strong as one may be, a 6000 lb. Silverado is stronger.

 

The same process is used to free aluminum wheels that have galvanically attached themselves to steel hubs, and works every time.  I do something similar to free driveshafts that have frozen in place on pinion yokes.

Thanks!  I'll definitely have to try this.

[16LT4]

On 1/18/2023 at 5:32 PM, Outdoors_Guy_88 said:

Thanks!  I'll definitely have to try this.

 

You might have to play around with how loose to make the lugs; you only need a few thousandths of an inch of play to break the rust seal.  A wire wheel on a a $10 HF angle grinder makes light work of cleaning up the hub .

 

I'm also in upstate NY, so most of what I touch has some various stage of rot or corrosion.  A 6k lb Silverado is the biggest BFH you can swing at it.

 

This is what you want on reassembly on most every fastener, the back face of the rotor, the rotor bore, the hub, etc.

 

https://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/home/our-products/chemicals-and-lubricants/greases/high-temperature-nickel-anti-seize-lubricants.html

Edited January 20, 2023 by 16LT4