Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Good morning,


I’ve been browsing and having trouble finding examples of trucks that have setups that I plan on doing.

 

I’m thinking I will go with the Rancho quicklift loaded strut assembly (screenshot attached), or a 2” level in the front and maybe going up a tire size.


Currently running 275/60r20 and thinking going to a 275/65R20 if I can find some help with this fitment.
 

Being in Central Alberta, I plan on putting dedicated winter rated tires on the stock 2020, elevation black 20” rims. Next spring, find a nice set of chrome 20-22” rims and a MT tire for a summer setup. 
 

thanks in advance! 

 

 

0D69D9FC-E5D0-48CB-B2C8-CC4E2343A631.jpeg

C8241366-C8FC-462B-8E3C-C3241B0A1657.jpeg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

That's probably going to be pretty close to rubbing depending on your year. Width is the same, but your adding 1.1" in height. Rancho rides really soft. It will probably rub on the lower chin spoiler,, but you can remove it with a socket and reinstall it later if it doesn't. Might need to get a front mudflap deleted also.

Posted
6 hours ago, SW-PUNISHER said:

That's probably going to be pretty close to rubbing depending on your year. Width is the same, but your adding 1.1" in height. Rancho rides really soft. It will probably rub on the lower chin spoiler,, but you can remove it with a socket and reinstall it later if it doesn't. Might need to get a front mudflap deleted also.

Thanks for this info!

 

my truck is a 2020 gmc 1550 elevation crew cab short box with X31.

 

I haven’t seen how to remove the front chin spoiler or the mud flap delete kits! I’ll have to look them up. 

Posted

Mines a 2022 refresh so they might not be the same. Chin spoiler is removed with a 8mm socket if I remember correctly. About a dozen screws hold it to the main bumper. Mud flap delete can be purchased from Rough Country or Truck Hardware. 

Posted
Just now, SW-PUNISHER said:

Mines a 2022 refresh so they might not be the same. Chin spoiler is removed with a 8mm socket if I remember correctly. About a dozen screws hold it to the main bumper. Mud flap delete can be purchased from Rough Country or Truck Hardware. 

Can you post up a pic of your truck, can’t picture the chin spoiler missing lol

Posted

Mines a 2022 refresh so they might not be the same. Chin spoiler is removed with a 8mm socket if I remember correctly. About a dozen screws hold it to the main bumper. Mud flap delete can be purchased from Rough Country or Truck Hardware. 

20230615_185408.jpg

Posted

Mind you, I have a 6" lift with 35-12.50-20 Toyo Open Country MT's on 20x10 wheels with -25mm offset. If you do need to trim the wheelwell liners or plastic, use a pair of tin-snips. Clean cuts and lines. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,256 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So I'm in the middle of a DOD AFM delete on my 6.2 L86 Sierra. I had a pick holding the tensioner but after I got the Cam phaser gear off I was cleaning off all the rtv and apparently I didn't have the pick seated far enough in. I bumped it and the tensioner sprang forward.  I think everything is good but I want a second opinion. The top of the tensioner is just a looped piece of plastic that rides in that channel right? There is no spring or anything is there? I got the gear and chain back on and it seems tight and everything looks right. I'm hoping nothing fell out.
    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...