Jump to content

Cab water leak woes - Need help

dmax03
 Share

Recommended Posts

dmax03 New Member

dmax03

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here is some backstory on my 03 Silverado 2500HD crew cab, I had a lot of leaks. 3rd brake light, drive side cab vent (between cab and bed), windshield (top center was leaking in due to glue failure), driver side mirror and driver door. I have fixed all but the driver door.  So I replaced the door seal that did not fix it. I then put the foam insert to "stiffen" the seal and bent the flange towards the door more to get better contact. That helped but did not fix it. Took the door panel off and found a lot of water coming into the door. Weep holes are clear, water deflector plastic has lost most of the adhesive so I used gorilla tape to seucre it. It's still coming in. 

Is this a normal amount of water to enter the door?

How do I fix this?

 

 

Edited by dmax03
Title change
  • Sad 1
  • dmax03 changed the title to Cab water leak woes - Need help
dna9656 Enthusiast

dna9656

Posted
Posted (edited)

So, using a dollar bill close the door with the bill between the the seal and the door. Pull the bill out, it should have a reasonable amount of drag on it it it doesn't (you found possible leak sites) here's a few things you can do: Check the fit of the door; is it outboard of where it belongs? The door should be flat in it's home, where the trailing edge of the front fender meets the leading edge of the door; this should all be in the same geometric plain, same as the trailing edge of the door and the edge of the cab. If that's messed up you got major problems; I suggest using some kind of 1/4" or so foam under the door seal so as to make the door seal overall thicker.

You can pull on the window section of the door (window down first please) to bring that part of the door closer to the seal when closed.

Dew wipers: these are stapled to the door inside cover and (somehow) attached to the door on the outboard side of the glass. These are available at many outlets, I would start with www.rockauto.com for the parts if you like or to get the GM P/Ns from their listings and then do a Internet search of those P/Ns. You'd be surprised to learn who sells what. If you think the mirror is leaking I would suggest doing a seal job with either some sort of home made gasket or some RTV or a combination of that. But, here's the thing, GM designed that door to NOT leak; unless the truck has been in an accident regular replacement parts and fix it techniques/solutions ought to fix it. So, stick with those until you have exhausted your options; heck, a bone yard door may be your fix, the hinges on these trucks are welded so there's little in the way of adjustment at those points. Gorilla Glue isn't your best option, try looking at the 3M catalog on line or calling the local body shop supply houses for products and advice on what adhesives to use. Remember this: the garden hose will put a lot more water on your car than a real rain would (unless your nearer the equator, but your not so....) a deluge might come through but a real rain might not. We used to dream of a smoke producing gadget that would help us find leaks on doors, theory was the smoke would be pulled out of the car through the leaky gaskets, I donno if that would work or not but it was a hope that remained unfulfilled.

I would love to hear how it works out for you.

Edited by dna9656
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I'm suborn like that Ed. There's a plaque in my doctor office that says, "Don't quit, take a break." Works for allot of things.    Reality is, the wife loves her SUV and even given it's issues, she'd buy another if she found one with low enough miles. Then again she has me to maintain it.    Most of what ails this thing is GM shooting themselves in the foot and by extension the buyer. Besides a ridiculous breather system the cat warm up strategy, IMHO, is the dumbest thing I've ever seen an OEM do to a vehicle they warranty. On cold start it r-e-t-a-r-d-s the ignition to like -17* ATDC and dump fuel like kicking over a pail to force combustion in the CAT's for rapid warm up. This literally hoses the oil off cylinder walls and creates enough varnish precursors to stick rings in even well maintained engines. THEN if that wasn't bad enough they recommend using a wanting fluid specification at equally stupid interval.    Common to all GDI motors I'm aware of is this silly practice of driving the HPFP off the cam giving a leaking pump direct and unchecked access to the crankcase. And sir, eventually the ALL leak. Your job is to "catch it if you can". Yes, these are the same people that removed dipsticks from engines and transmissions in belief Joe Average wasn't capable of checking, reading and maintain his own vehicles fluids. Sadly  and in large they were correct. Most people these days can't tell a sparkplug from a fire plug.  Great ideas one and all.    Every move and every error calculated to defend themselves from the law and their own customers.       
    • Fishindude
      Dash Mat

      By Fishindude · Posted

      Most online suppliers and Amazon. All have noted "not for use with Bose speakers".
    • Coastie05
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Very interesting thread. Definitely didn’t expect to see this kind of mileage out of that engine. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      J&L OIL SEPARATOR CO

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Grumpy Bear
      Starting a new thread regarding mounting my 2014 OEM wheels to my 2026

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...