Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2019 GMC Denali and all of the interior lights stopped working including the center console light and visor lights.  The open door off switch in the upper center console is not ON but he LED when its off does work. Plus nothing happens when I press the on/off light button next to it in the upper center console. 

I checked all fuses in all three fuse boxes, but I am not sure exactly which fuse controls the interior lighting as the descriptions on the fuse box lids are not all that great. 

So my question is which fuse/relay controls the interior lighting? 

I appreciate any help.  Thanks. 

 

 

Posted

There's a switch in the cab that turns off all of the interior lights. Find the switch and turn them back on. Owners manual will tell you where it is. It used to be on the dash left side of the steering wheel. I think that in my 21 Sierra, it's on the upper console by the rearview mirror. 

Posted

Pushing the interior light button in the upper console does not turn the lights on.  That is why I am looking for the fuse that controls that button. 

 

Posted

I had the same problem in my 23 Gmc At4X, but also the sunroof wasn't working. Open and close all doors, then check again. It wasn't a fuse or anything. The system had timed out because of an open door. It looked closed but didn't reset the timer. I told the dealer and he had never heard of that.

Posted

Thanks.  I will give that a try tonight when I get home. 

I also made an appointment with the dealer for next week since it's still under warranty.  Cross fingers its something I am overlooking and an easy fix.   

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So I couldn't figure it out so it's now day 4 at dealership and they still are not sure what the issue is.  The technician thinks its a loose pin on the connector that goes to the BCM.  Apparently there has been 10 technical bulletins with this same issue. Crossing fingers they call tomorrow with a positive update.    

Posted (edited)

Well the dealership finally figured it out.  The issue turned out to be a short to ground on the red and black wires for the drivers side visor.  Apparently the wiring harness was rubbing against the body behind the headliner.   They had to replace the entire visor.   After 5 days it's fixed.  

Edited by LowCrewCab
  • Like 1
  • 10 months later...
Posted
On 12/12/2023 at 1:26 AM, LowCrewCab said:

Well the dealership finally figured it out.  The issue turned out to be a short to ground on the red and black wires for the drivers side visor.  Apparently the wiring harness was rubbing against the body behind the headliner.   They had to replace the entire visor.   After 5 days it's fixed.  

Hi ihave the same issue but i cant figure out can you please send me some picture to see the wires and fuse for the visor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 298 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...