Jump to content

Magnaride Replacement

Flyboygt

By Flyboygt
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Flyboygt Enthusiast

Flyboygt

Posted
Posted

I know a majority of people hate the Magnaride but, my Tahoe is a soccer practice/grocery getter for the family. What are the suggestions for the replacement Magnaride/Air?

strutmasters has a kit for $1400 for all of it

rockauto (Arnott) $408/each

Gmparts?

 

Thanks

K2xxSteve Enthusiast

K2xxSteve

Posted
Posted

Checking in. Mine need replacing sometime soon also and wondering if they can be had for cheaper. They're "seeping" at the moment. 

 

Not sure what the forum consensus is on them, but to me they're AMAZING. Not gonna do a "delete" but was definitely "shocked" at the replacement cost. Had no idea they cost that much money.

 

 

  • 1 year later...
CarFan1 Enthusiast

CarFan1

Posted
Posted

Steve how many miles when the weeping started?  Did you end up getting the work done?  My Suburban just turned 4 years old and though I don't have any weeping I'm just wondering when I should start being concerned.

  • 2 months later...
Pacfanweb Enthusiast

Pacfanweb

Posted
Posted

Wife's 16 has about 120k and the fronts are just gone.  Kids call it the "Bouncy house mobile" now.  

 

I have thought about doing a delete, but so many mixed reviews on the ride afterwards.  

  • 4 weeks later...
K2xxSteve Enthusiast

K2xxSteve

Posted
Posted
On 12/2/2024 at 8:14 PM, CarFan1 said:

Steve how many miles when the weeping started?  Did you end up getting the work done?  My Suburban just turned 4 years old and though I don't have any weeping I'm just wondering when I should start being concerned.

 

Saw your message. Ended up trading the truck. 😪

 

Glad I dragged my feet for a year on the Magneride replacement, because by the time I was finally ready to suck it up and spend $5-6k on full Magneride replacement and airbags too late last year, the engine was letting go. Frozen/stuck lifter grinding out the cam and "tick of death". 97k miles. Master tech with 30+ years experience at my local indy shop took a look at it, and recommended I either trade since it was still under 100k miles and no check engine light yet, or get a replacement engine. Couldn't believe it. $10-15k in repairs needed on a truck with still under 100k miles? I was not expecting perfection from GM by any means, but holy moly.

 

Anyways, got $23k in trade for it, and picked up an off-lease low mileage CPO 2022 BMW X7 with tow package.  

CarFan1 Enthusiast

CarFan1

Posted
Posted

Hopefully you'll do a review of the X7.  We still have an e70 X5 that we keep at our vacation house.  It just passed 70k and is still a pleasure to drive.  

 

Our 2020 Suburban Premier had been largely trouble free.  However it's in the shop now for strut and shock replacements.  Fortunately its covered by the extended warranty but I really wonder about a 4k repair (at once) on a vehicle that isn't even 5 years old will mean as the years and miles add up.

 

Funny thing I took it in because it was squeaking over highway imperfections.  Apparently that's a precursor to the struts failing.  My wife and I have been planning on going with the grandkids on a Route 66 trip next year for the Route 66 anniversary next year and we definitely will take our Suburban.  But I may have to consider letting her go once we get back.

 

I guess we won't see you much around here anymore.  But great to hear the other news ✝️ though!

  • Like 1
K2xxSteve Enthusiast

K2xxSteve

Posted
Posted

Amen, brother! Found the ONE thing that matters in life. ✝️ PTL!

 

It's really a shame on my ill-fated Burban, because we just bought a near the beach property in Delaware hardly a month after I traded it. Didn't think it would happen, but finally found a place we loved and went for it. It really would have come in handy with its superb towing and hauling abilities getting stuff from MD to DE, but the X7 is a fantastic tow vehicle also. Lots of things I've been hauling wouldn't have fit in the Suburban anyways, so I've been renting U-Haul 5x8 trailers for next to nothing. The B58 will tow all day long in 7th gear, and you never know anything is there. I'd say it's as good or better a tow vehicle than the Burban, and I had max tow and 3.42 gearing. 

 

I considered a closeout Ford Expedition (the now previous model). Massive discounts $10-12k off MSRP without even negotiating. Regular Tahoe sized one and not the Max would have been fine for us now. Liked it but didn't love it, and new car prices have gotten ridiculous. The CPO X7 was the same price and not really all that much smaller inside, and drove a ton better obviously, so went in that direction and haven't looked back.   

 

I know BMW's well. This is our fourth. We had an E70 for six years also, a 2012 X5 35d which was fantastic. We traded that for the Suburban. Recently got my wife a CPO 2022 G05 X5 with a mere 4k miles on it, now my G07 X7, and still have the 2011 E93 335i that I bought new. There's a really good indy BMW shop within walking distance from me also, so it makes sense. Funny thing is the X7 has an air suspension system that's known for FIVE-figure repair bills, so this time I went for the platinum plan extended warranty. 😂 I hope I don't need it.

 

Just to stay on topic, there's a lot more discussion about aftermarket suspension options including various Magneride deletes and other things you can do over at tahoeyukon forum dot com. I researched until I couldn't see straight, and came to the conclusion to just suck it up and do the full OEM Magneride replacement. Ride quality aspects are so nuanced and subjective that unless you can personally ride in a vehicle with the suspension setup you're considering, who the heck knows if you'll be satisfied or not? Very easy to blow tons of money on something you won't be satisfied with, and difficult to get straight answers even from the aftermarket companies. Just stick with OEM. I'd have done it, but then the stupid lifter issue on top of that and the master tech thinking things were too far gone and to just replace rather than repair, good grief.

 

Still bitter, but enjoying having a daily BMW again, and love the deal I got on it. 😎  

 

   

X7-Towing.jpg

  • Like 1
CarFan1 Enthusiast

CarFan1

Posted
Posted

Got the 'Burban back last night.  Dealer said that they were unable to reproduce the concerns I had.  Even though they initially said that the front struts were shot, the master tech says actually they aren't.  It seems that they had initially attempted to replace the front struts but once the master tech examined the install, he vetoed it even though the extended warranty covered it.  Supposedly they removed the parts.

 

The master tech said that he could see signs that the magna-ride could be in early stages of failing but nothing was occurring that would necessitate a warranty repair at present.  They did offer to do a "preemptive" repair for $2500 out of pocket.  I declined.

 

When I drove home there was no squeak and the ride seemed fine.  I'm planning on doing an hour drive with my wife this afternoon to the outlet mall to see how it drives.  I'm hoping to keep that trip under $2500.  🤣

 

I plan to keep a watchful eye on the suspension.  My warranty expires in the fall of '26 so hopefully if its an issue before then it can be addressed under warranty.

I haven't had any other issues and as I said, after the Route 66 trip we'll have to figure out what to do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 369 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...