Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Got a 2017 GMC sierra AT3 with the Rancho Shocks. iam do to replace these and was looking into the Bilsteins 5100 adjustable. i basically want to raise the front to level it off. what is a good setting for these shocks to level the truck off. will be changing out front and rears. amy input would be appeciated.

Posted

Max height will raise the front. It will not be a complete level like the 2" or more variants. You will still have a rake. Just not as much.

  • Like 1
Posted
47 minutes ago, benelli said:

Thanks. Should the back be left stock height on the bilsteins just raise the fronts?

That's a personal choice. Do you still want rake or the truck to sit level front to rear? In my case, I just wanted front raised and did nothing to rear.

  • Like 1
Posted

Just to add, I didn't want rear raised as I tow a toy hauler occasionally so I didn't want to deal with any additional height in rear. I went with the Bilstein 4600 rear shocks but I also installed Airlift air bags in rear to help with the sag when towing.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, benelli said:

Thanks. Should the back be left stock height on the bilsteins just raise the fronts?

The rear shocks are not adjustable.  

  • Like 2
Posted
On 2/1/2024 at 11:07 AM, mikeyk101 said:

That's a personal choice. Do you still want rake or the truck to sit level front to rear? In my case, I just wanted front raised and did nothing to rear.

how much did you raise the front shocks to get resonable level? iam looking to just raise the front and make it look level abit awell as replacing the rancho shock

Posted
7 hours ago, benelli said:

how much did you raise the front shocks to get resonable level? iam looking to just raise the front and make it look level abit awell as replacing the rancho shock

 

I didn't go with the Bilsteins because I was able to get a set of Rancho Quicklifts new for about $240 total cost. The Quicklifts advertise as being a 2" lift and are complete strut assemblies unlike the Bilsteins where you still have to swap the strut springs. I had the Rough Country spacers that I had installed previously which gave me a 2" lift/level. After ditching those gawd awful RC spacers and installing the Quicklifts, the front fenders were still at about same height from ground to bottom of center of wheel well. I don't recall exactly what measurement is right now but I am able to run 275/60R20 Falken Wildpeaks on factory rims and have no sign of rubbing. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/1/2024 at 11:11 AM, Snowcamo said:

The rear shocks are not adjustable.  

Yeah, I think I misunderstood what was being asked...

Posted
4 minutes ago, mikeyk101 said:

Yeah, I think I misunderstood what was being asked...

All good. The way it was worded kinda left it open to different answers. 

 

Here is mine bed loaded. I don't remember how much weight,  but I know it will squat with a decent load in the bed. I'll have to get a new pic without the bed loaded.

Screenshot_20240202_200851_Photos.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
11 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

 

I didn't go with the Bilsteins because I was able to get a set of Rancho Quicklifts new for about $240 total cost. The Quicklifts advertise as being a 2" lift and are complete strut assemblies unlike the Bilsteins where you still have to swap the strut springs. I had the Rough Country spacers that I had installed previously which gave me a 2" lift/level. After ditching those gawd awful RC spacers and installing the Quicklifts, the front fenders were still at about same height from ground to bottom of center of wheel well. I don't recall exactly what measurement is right now but I am able to run 275/60R20 Falken Wildpeaks on factory rims and have no sign of rubbing. 

Great I’ll have a look at those. Better option if they come with the spring. What height did you use on the quick lifts. Or are they already at max hight. I also have the same Faulken wild peak tires so I may go with that setup . Thsnks

Posted

They are just a set height. They have an adjustable damping knob on lower part to set damping between 1-9. IIRC, the factory setting on these is 5. For towing or heavy loads (firmer), it suggested to bump it up to between 7-9. For softer settings, 4-below. I believe I am using 6 but would have to check. It's not a bad idea if you plan to adjust regularly to move the knob back and forth every so often. Also I had read that some have had corrosion inside of that knob from water intrusion so I found some recommending to remove knob and plate and fill it with grease and reinstall plate and knob. I did this before originally installing. I turned it all the way down to 1 IIRC before removing the plate and knob. Very easy to do.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,427 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...