Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
3 minutes ago, revrnd said:

Supposed to arrive next Fri'. I'm sure I'll be asking a few questions. I'm not really all that savvy w/ this stuff LOL

As I had mentioned after I had bought mine, the worst part was messing around to get a log in to Autel because I was doing something wrong with their fill in form to create an account, once I got past that and dug up the update and downloaded to my computer and plugged in the 508 to my laptop to then download it to the 508, I was well on my way as it turned out. You probably have already realized that but the 508 MUST be updated before you attempt to use it. I actually plugged in the charger for the 508 to begin with and left it to charge just in case before I did anything else although I think mine was fairly much charged out of the box. The video ( even though there is no sound for a fair bit of it ) that had been posted on this site was what I followed to find the right area and lines to choose to get me to the program for my truck for the front and rear separate axle settings. Only because I had the truck in a garage did I use the "run" mode on the truck without the engine running and had a higher amperage charger on the battery to maintain good voltage for the process but otherwise get the 508 to the right line where it asks to plug it into the obd2 and start the engine and plug it in and then change the numbers to what you want.

 

The pressures you choose to put in don't necessarily have to be quite as low as the lowest pressure you plan on running if you want the trigger point for the tpms alarm to go off sooner, hopefully that makes sense but if not I can elaborate.

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, Chuck FB said:

The pressures you choose to put in don't necessarily have to be quite as low as the lowest pressure you plan on running if you want the trigger point for the tpms alarm to go off sooner, hopefully that makes sense but if not I can elaborate.

From what I understand from elsewhere, you just have to lower the setting enough that when you lower the tire pressure(s), you don't trigger the system.

 

The accompanying info on Amazon (the 1 screen grab) says you can Read/Write Tire Type/Pressure. What do they mean by 'type'? Is that size lost in translation?

Posted
1 hour ago, revrnd said:

From what I understand from elsewhere, you just have to lower the setting enough that when you lower the tire pressure(s), you don't trigger the system.

 

The accompanying info on Amazon (the 1 screen grab) says you can Read/Write Tire Type/Pressure. What do they mean by 'type'? Is that size lost in translation?

Yes that's right, even though the factory placard pressures input into the trucks system were the actual pressures you read on the door frame sticker ( mine did read 60 front / 80 rear on the Autel unit ) and I did try with the rear tires by lowering them to close around 60 to see if that was the point where the alarm would be set and seemed to be in that ballpark as was suggested on here. It may not be exact figuring and I didn't spend a lot of time experimenting but seemed to be around a 25% reduction from the placard set pressure to when the alarm would go off ( pressure reading went from green to orange ) . So from that rough deduction I figured if I wanted to run a an actual minimum physical pressure of 40 pounds in a certain tire I will take a pressure number and subtract 25% and see where I land, so I chose 48 - 25% = 36 . So if correct that would mean it would trigger at around 36 pounds and it did actually seem to be close in there when I lowered a tire down to around that and it triggered the low pressure warning. Of course that means I must set my tires pressure at a cool morning in the shade temp ( coolest ambient temp of that time of year ) in order to avoid the alarm going off or running too low a pressure for that matter. Also doing that means if I put a bit more air in than lets say the 40 pounds to carry more load, its going to take whatever pressure above the inputted 48 pounds to trigger a high pressure alarm. I assume the system won't actually tell me the pressure is high but will just trigger it to go off to alert me something is wrong. I won't claim I nailed exactly the right placard pressures to input and if I start hauling heavier loads I will have to certainly jump up the rear axle placard pressure to avoid triggering the system all the time.

 

As to that wording they used, I believe they used the word "Type" to explain the construction types of tires as an LT type tire for example requires more air pressure to carry the same load as a P rated tire of the same tire size due to the heat that the heavy construction LT tire would produce otherwise from flexing over the wimpy P rated tire. But the reality is that its asking for a tire pressure to set the system at and not a tire "Type". Which reminds me, I believe there is a metric or English setting one can choose for the unit and if that was there I must have chosen the English/USA readout of PSI. That is how the list of pressures to choose from was listed and its by 1 psi increments all the way from 1 psi up I believe. Once one is in that screen to choose the desired pressure to reset the axle in question, its hitting the up or down arrow to scroll to the highlighted psi you want and hit yes to choose it. It could care less what tire type is on the vehicle, that is more a matter of what psi to put into the system if for example a person was taking a half ton that came factory with P rated tires and the door sticker said 32 pounds of air, now you installed LT tires and those tires called for 50 pounds at the same max axle weight rating and wanted to set the vehicle to that pressure. But the tool itself doesn't ask for anything in that way, what tire type it is ... it only wants to know what pressure is desired to reset for the alarm to circle around it for our tailored purpose.

  • Like 1
Posted

Today for some reason and am guessing because it was a bit colder, plus I had bled just a little bit of air out the other day to set to what I thought was going to be our new cold temp average for these days but it had dipped colder and then I drove it first thing this morning. That was enough to trigger the rear tires as I guess I didn't have the placard set pressure quite low enough. On my way home one of those tires decided to go into the green, it was on the side of the highway facing towards the sun, the other tire read the same pressure but stayed orange. Ok so its not set quite low enough, time to click down the placard setting just a bit as its too touchy, as I said just experimenting to see where its happy place is without triggering for no good reason. That tire which stayed in the orange, I inflated the tire with the truck running after having changed the placard pressures and indeed the horn went off and I stopped the air and checked with the tpms tool for pressure reading and sure enough it had honked right at the new placard pressure setting. However I then lowered the pressure back the few pounds to what I wanted.

 

I must have misread the choices of tire pressures the other day and took the "line numbers" as psi in that moment of scrolling fast as the lowest pressure the unit shows for this vehicle program is 26 pounds.

 

By the way the 508 as I set up the vehicle type etc and go to where it will have to access placard pressures on the vehicle, it says "start vehicle and then plug in unit". I have the cord on the unit already so plug it into the vehicle and it reads the vehicle and then goes from there to either read the existing pressures only or chose the choice of changing the placard pressure figures by axle.

  • Like 1
Posted

I just got a Thinkcar 869BT, it has free lifetime updates, is bidirectional, can do FCA, force Regens, and etc.

 

This has been a fantastic tool so far, you can read about some of my use here: 

 

Posted

My Autel TPMS scan tool arrived today. I have a question which I've asked in a separate thread:

 

 

(The current thread title doesn't differentiate between OBDII & TPMS scan tools)

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, WillyEckerslike said:

Yes it help for me

I see this troll added some idiotic link to my prior post, I have sent a request to delete this persons account but in any event everyone can disregard whatever garbage this troll is peddling.

 

Update; thank you to the moderators as that scammer post was deleted promptly.

Edited by Chuck FB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Here's the 2026 order guide - Vehicle Order Guide   RPO code "AS3"?  Not seeing it.  What is it supposed to be?  I see AS3 used a long time ago as some sort of seat option, but its not applicable to the current Suburban.    I see RPO code "AZ3" which is 1st row 40/20/40 split bench.  That is only on LS trim, which LS can't option any of the trick suspension.     2nd row bench power fold RPO code is "ATT".  So your dealer should be able to sort their locator to find matching builds by searching the combo of ATT and Z95 combined to find a 2nd row power fold with MagRide.     You can do the 2nd row power bench AND have MagRide, or Mag with Air on Z71, RST and High Country.     Here's a Z71 with 2nd row power bench and the Z71 Off Road Package which adds the Adaptive Air and MagRide - 2026 Suburban | Details | Vehicle Locator   Here's an RST with 2nd row power bench and the RST Capability Package, and RST Capability adds the Adaptive Air with Magride - 2026 Suburban | Details | Vehicle Locator   I can't find a High Country, but you can do it on there.  Requires the 6.2, and the Sun and Tow pack which allows you to then option the 2nd row power fold.  Black interior only.  High Country comes standard with MagRide and you can order the air if you get the High Country Deluxe, but Deluxe will take you to captain 2nd row.       You can do it at GMC on the AT4 and the regular Denali (not Ultimate) as well.  
    • So.  Get this.  On the Chevy regular cab, you can get the factory remote start at the dealer from the accessories catalog.  BUT.  GMC, you can't.   Now...get this...GMC 2 door, you CAN get the power seat.     Go.  Figure.   Anywho.  are you trying to order?  Or locate?  Ordering for 2 door 1/2 tons has been stopped as of April or May?  So you won't be able to order.  You'll have to shop on the ground units or in transit units.     Ordering was stopped because the new trucks are coming.  
    • Thank you.  I really appreciate the well wishes.  I'm an engineer in the telecom industry, I know hardly anything about marketing.  Over the years I did some videos for nonprofits and web sites for small businesses and the seed was planted.  Agree with over-buying, I started shooting on an iPhone before I got my first DSLR and tripod.   I'm looking at trucks with potentially 150,000+ miles to keep the cost of entry low while focusing on the client experience and equipment.  Good wireless mics for interviews, the right lenses & lighting to look professional.  But I don't want to be late or break down, the stress of emptying a trailer & securing a rental truck right before a gig would negate any savings from buying a junker.  So anything that leaks water, has extensive rust, or generally unreliable I'd like to avoid.   Does GM/Chevy overbuild these trucks for upfitting?  I talked to a local upfitter, they sometimes tie lights & other 12V into existing circuits, which I always thought was bad.  Which is why I enjoyed the AUX upfit switches on previous trucks (odd they mostly come with off-road or work truck packages).
    • i guess it might be depending on the type of driving. my 2.7 has 120k miles, changed the plugs at 70k and it runs as good as new. i have not used any injector cleaner
    • GM's are stainless and have a fairly robust powder coating, although, still not worth $850 in my opinion. They will hold up a lot better than their cheaper steel aftermarket counterparts.   What I like about the GM step bars is dealers will often equip their dealer stock with them. Lots of margin. Which means a lot of people end up buying them because they're already on the truck, even if they don't like them. So it's pretty easy to find brand new takeoffs with hardware on Marketplace and Craigslist for about $250.   That's what I did for my crew cab. I wanted ZR2 rock rails for the look, but with the ability to bolt up GM's assist step package. From GM it's about a $2500 accessory all in. The old folks in my life can't get in the truck without steps. I found the whole package on marketplace for $180.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...