Jump to content

Scan tool

Lpfm1990
 Share

Recommended Posts

Chuck FB Enthusiast

Chuck FB

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, revrnd said:

Supposed to arrive next Fri'. I'm sure I'll be asking a few questions. I'm not really all that savvy w/ this stuff LOL

As I had mentioned after I had bought mine, the worst part was messing around to get a log in to Autel because I was doing something wrong with their fill in form to create an account, once I got past that and dug up the update and downloaded to my computer and plugged in the 508 to my laptop to then download it to the 508, I was well on my way as it turned out. You probably have already realized that but the 508 MUST be updated before you attempt to use it. I actually plugged in the charger for the 508 to begin with and left it to charge just in case before I did anything else although I think mine was fairly much charged out of the box. The video ( even though there is no sound for a fair bit of it ) that had been posted on this site was what I followed to find the right area and lines to choose to get me to the program for my truck for the front and rear separate axle settings. Only because I had the truck in a garage did I use the "run" mode on the truck without the engine running and had a higher amperage charger on the battery to maintain good voltage for the process but otherwise get the 508 to the right line where it asks to plug it into the obd2 and start the engine and plug it in and then change the numbers to what you want.

 

The pressures you choose to put in don't necessarily have to be quite as low as the lowest pressure you plan on running if you want the trigger point for the tpms alarm to go off sooner, hopefully that makes sense but if not I can elaborate.

  • Like 1
revrnd Senior Enthusiast

revrnd

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, Chuck FB said:

The pressures you choose to put in don't necessarily have to be quite as low as the lowest pressure you plan on running if you want the trigger point for the tpms alarm to go off sooner, hopefully that makes sense but if not I can elaborate.

From what I understand from elsewhere, you just have to lower the setting enough that when you lower the tire pressure(s), you don't trigger the system.

 

The accompanying info on Amazon (the 1 screen grab) says you can Read/Write Tire Type/Pressure. What do they mean by 'type'? Is that size lost in translation?

Chuck FB Enthusiast

Chuck FB

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, revrnd said:

From what I understand from elsewhere, you just have to lower the setting enough that when you lower the tire pressure(s), you don't trigger the system.

 

The accompanying info on Amazon (the 1 screen grab) says you can Read/Write Tire Type/Pressure. What do they mean by 'type'? Is that size lost in translation?

Yes that's right, even though the factory placard pressures input into the trucks system were the actual pressures you read on the door frame sticker ( mine did read 60 front / 80 rear on the Autel unit ) and I did try with the rear tires by lowering them to close around 60 to see if that was the point where the alarm would be set and seemed to be in that ballpark as was suggested on here. It may not be exact figuring and I didn't spend a lot of time experimenting but seemed to be around a 25% reduction from the placard set pressure to when the alarm would go off ( pressure reading went from green to orange ) . So from that rough deduction I figured if I wanted to run a an actual minimum physical pressure of 40 pounds in a certain tire I will take a pressure number and subtract 25% and see where I land, so I chose 48 - 25% = 36 . So if correct that would mean it would trigger at around 36 pounds and it did actually seem to be close in there when I lowered a tire down to around that and it triggered the low pressure warning. Of course that means I must set my tires pressure at a cool morning in the shade temp ( coolest ambient temp of that time of year ) in order to avoid the alarm going off or running too low a pressure for that matter. Also doing that means if I put a bit more air in than lets say the 40 pounds to carry more load, its going to take whatever pressure above the inputted 48 pounds to trigger a high pressure alarm. I assume the system won't actually tell me the pressure is high but will just trigger it to go off to alert me something is wrong. I won't claim I nailed exactly the right placard pressures to input and if I start hauling heavier loads I will have to certainly jump up the rear axle placard pressure to avoid triggering the system all the time.

 

As to that wording they used, I believe they used the word "Type" to explain the construction types of tires as an LT type tire for example requires more air pressure to carry the same load as a P rated tire of the same tire size due to the heat that the heavy construction LT tire would produce otherwise from flexing over the wimpy P rated tire. But the reality is that its asking for a tire pressure to set the system at and not a tire "Type". Which reminds me, I believe there is a metric or English setting one can choose for the unit and if that was there I must have chosen the English/USA readout of PSI. That is how the list of pressures to choose from was listed and its by 1 psi increments all the way from 1 psi up I believe. Once one is in that screen to choose the desired pressure to reset the axle in question, its hitting the up or down arrow to scroll to the highlighted psi you want and hit yes to choose it. It could care less what tire type is on the vehicle, that is more a matter of what psi to put into the system if for example a person was taking a half ton that came factory with P rated tires and the door sticker said 32 pounds of air, now you installed LT tires and those tires called for 50 pounds at the same max axle weight rating and wanted to set the vehicle to that pressure. But the tool itself doesn't ask for anything in that way, what tire type it is ... it only wants to know what pressure is desired to reset for the alarm to circle around it for our tailored purpose.

  • Like 1
Chuck FB Enthusiast

Chuck FB

Posted
Posted

Today for some reason and am guessing because it was a bit colder, plus I had bled just a little bit of air out the other day to set to what I thought was going to be our new cold temp average for these days but it had dipped colder and then I drove it first thing this morning. That was enough to trigger the rear tires as I guess I didn't have the placard set pressure quite low enough. On my way home one of those tires decided to go into the green, it was on the side of the highway facing towards the sun, the other tire read the same pressure but stayed orange. Ok so its not set quite low enough, time to click down the placard setting just a bit as its too touchy, as I said just experimenting to see where its happy place is without triggering for no good reason. That tire which stayed in the orange, I inflated the tire with the truck running after having changed the placard pressures and indeed the horn went off and I stopped the air and checked with the tpms tool for pressure reading and sure enough it had honked right at the new placard pressure setting. However I then lowered the pressure back the few pounds to what I wanted.

 

I must have misread the choices of tire pressures the other day and took the "line numbers" as psi in that moment of scrolling fast as the lowest pressure the unit shows for this vehicle program is 26 pounds.

 

By the way the 508 as I set up the vehicle type etc and go to where it will have to access placard pressures on the vehicle, it says "start vehicle and then plug in unit". I have the cord on the unit already so plug it into the vehicle and it reads the vehicle and then goes from there to either read the existing pressures only or chose the choice of changing the placard pressure figures by axle.

  • Like 1
digger86 New Member

digger86

Posted
Posted

I just got a Thinkcar 869BT, it has free lifetime updates, is bidirectional, can do FCA, force Regens, and etc.

 

This has been a fantastic tool so far, you can read about some of my use here: 

 

revrnd Senior Enthusiast

revrnd

Posted
Posted

My Autel TPMS scan tool arrived today. I have a question which I've asked in a separate thread:

 

 

(The current thread title doesn't differentiate between OBDII & TPMS scan tools)

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Chuck FB Enthusiast

Chuck FB

Posted
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, WillyEckerslike said:

Yes it help for me

I see this troll added some idiotic link to my prior post, I have sent a request to delete this persons account but in any event everyone can disregard whatever garbage this troll is peddling.

 

Update; thank you to the moderators as that scammer post was deleted promptly.

Edited by Chuck FB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • TrueBlue
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      I gotta say, I'm enjoying your narration. The troubles you've been having are amusing as you describe them. It's good to see that you're finally getting some satisfaction out the old beast though.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Vu1can
      Bridgestone vs Goodyear tires?

      By Vu1can · Posted

      Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • davester
      Broke Down on the Mountain

      By davester · Posted

      maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...