Starting a new thread regarding mounting my 2014 OEM wheels to my 2026

revmanii · Thursday at 05:57 PM

16 hours ago, GETGONE said:

I told you in your other thread all you need is a 6mm spacer. You don't need extended lugs either with the 5mm spacer. I really don't like extended lugs as they don't seat in the wheel if the studs are tight in the lug holes.

The spacer size wasn't a guess for me. I had a set from a 2016 truck on my Avalanche and someone on this forum asked if they would fit a 2019+ truck. I test fit one and it didn't work as is. I had a 6mm spacer I was using for my summer wheels since they are aftermarket and didn't clear the calipers and the previous gen OEM wheels fit just fine.

I appreciate your response as well as everyone elses. It's all stuff/info/opinions to consider. It's why I asked. The spacers are .375, the reach of the extendend lugs is only .33". Even if they were to bottom out with just the wheels, they're not going to bottom with the gen 2 BORA spacers. Spacer size wasn't a guess for me either. As I posted, the one front wheel I tested, spun freely with a less than 1/4" worth of washers. I went with the BORA .375" and ET lugs because I thought it was more important to have hubcentric spacers. Based on my research, that started at .375 for any vendors I found. Time will tell. I really want put the backs on, but it's also really hot outside. Air conditioning is a wonderful thing.

Edited Thursday at 05:59 PM by revmanii

GETGONE · Friday at 05:05 PM

The rear width is slightly wider than the front already and there's no caliper clearance issues so you won't need the spacers. I had run them on mine initially but it stuck out noticeably more so I've left them off since.

revmanii · Friday at 06:37 PM

1 hour ago, GETGONE said:

The rear width is slightly wider than the front already and there's no caliper clearance issues so you won't need the spacers. I had run them on mine initially but it stuck out noticeably more so I've left them off since.

Huh. That's a really interesting comment. I ran into a guy at home depot that pulled in with a Silverado with the same wheels I was looking to put on the new truck. It was a newer truck, so I asked what year it was. Late teens IIRC. But he said he put spacers on the front to try and correct that. I don't think I've ever read that, or noticed it on any of my Silverados.

The spacers were not cheap. not putting them on the back would have saved some money. To me it was, if I'm going to move the front wheels out a little, I need to do the same for the back. The idea is to be a little more sporty with the 18" 285 Toyo directionals. I'm learning to deal with several downgrades compared to my '14 LT. No steering wheel stereo volume control (sucks), no uplevel DIC. (sucks even more). It runs well, but sounds like crap.

GETGONE · Friday at 07:19 PM

Flat spacers would have been fine. You're paying for the Bora name. The only reason everyone cries about hub centric is they don't realize the bulge lugs are what actually centers the wheel, the hub ring only helps get you there.

I ordered my truck back in 21 because I had the option to after the dealer couldn't find what I was looking for. I was able to order the 6.2L in the Custom Trail Boss trim and ordered the safety confidence package that includes the steering wheel audio controls as well as crash alert and pedestrian alert. I saw from your other thread you weren't able to order because ordering for regular cabs stopped months ago. I've been tempted by the 0% for 60 month financing GM has currently but I'd have to take what is in stock and can't find a diesel in the bright blue color because it too was built out months ago.

revmanii · 2026-07-04T17:05:53Z

I put the rears on yesterday morning. I think the old wheels look good despite being 12 years old, and a little crusty. Re-torqued the fronts after 10-15 miles after I put on the rears. Re-torqued the rears today after about 30 miles or so yesterday. I've ordered what I believe are GM 13542523 TPMS sensors/valves from Partzilla. My googling/research on this part has again been, not clear. My manual for the new truck does not appear to show a manual TPMS relearn mode. I have an older device that appears to be the same as what still sells now for putting on new wheels, or even rotating. I used to use it twice a year. I was impressed that I was able to use it to calibrate the originals wheels/tires I put on the 2014 before trading it in a couple weeks ago.

Edited 7 hours ago by revmanii

GETGONE · 2026-07-04T20:03:49Z

New trucks are auto-learn TPMS. The sensors from your old truck won't work. Even the pre-refresh sensors won't work.

revmanii · 2026-07-05T00:22:15Z

5 hours ago, GETGONE said:

New trucks are auto-learn TPMS. The sensors from your old truck won't work. Even the pre-refresh sensors won't work.

Yeah, that's my understanding. The newer trucks are 433Mhz vs the older 315Mhz TPMS. Putting these wheels on is costing me a small fortune, but so far, I'm still OK with it.

Next week the chrome bumpers are scheduled to be replaced with flat black ones. That would complete what the dealer still owes me.

Edited 5 hours ago by revmanii

GETGONE · 2026-07-05T02:36:44Z

Gloss black would look better, but I'd paint match the grill before ditching the chrome bumpers.

Grumpy Bear · 2026-07-05T06:16:04Z

Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.

Two items.

1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal.

2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.