Jump to content

super filthy intake mani


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys,

I have a 2001 K2500 6.0L with about 84,000. I pulled off the throttle body to clean and inspect things and I couldn't believe the amount of sticky oil crud that was inside the rear part of the TB and inside the intake manifold! I mean it is bad! My fingers are still stained. I cleaned as much as I could but how can I get into the back-most part of the mani? Should I spray TB cleaner and scrub it out with a long, skinny brush? Should I replace the TB, start it and shoot tons of cleaner down it's throat while running?

 

On a related note, I can't image where this sticky oil crud comes from. It's gotta have somthing to do with the oil from the K&N.

 

Thanks in advance for any help!

Posted

It's normal build-up. I know mine is in need of cleaning because the throttle sticks a little when I push on it.

 

Throttle Body cleaner will do the trick along with a brush and some clean lint free rags.

 

There is also a product called Sea Foam that is sopposed to clean the TB out for you with no scrubbing. You just spray it in while the engine is running.

Posted

Thanks Shaners,

I just got back from Napa with a full on bag o' goodies including SeaFoam and some Chevron Techroline. I quickly gave SeaFoam a shot and it cleans something awesome!

 

Thanks again,

Ed

Posted

Question about Sea Foam.

 

I know that if you run the engine with the air intake removed the truck idles real bad and then you end up throwing a code for the MAF. Happened to me once when I had the intake off and had to move the truck forward a few inches. Could barely even start the truck.

 

So how do you use the Sea Foam? Spray into the throttle body while engine off then re-atttach the air intake then start the truck.

 

I think I read a post on here where someone was using it through a vacuum hose? What gets cleaned if you do that? Does it clean the throttle body?

Posted

AZ-Z71,

I'll try to answer this one. Kinda long, sorry!

 

I read somewhere on this 'board that you should disconnect the MAF and then remove the intake horn/tube/K&N body or whatever you have attached to the throttle body.

I did this and the truck ran fine without anything attached... something that used to never happen if that MAF was still connected! It still throws a MAF code but your basic code reader can clear that.

 

I bought the spray form of the Sea Foam. I think it's called Sea Foam Deep Creep. I pulled off the intake, unhooked the MAF, started the truck and sprayed the heck out of the intake straight down the throat. Loaded it up something good, shut it off and let it sit for a few minutes. I restarted and repeated the process. I think it cleaned it nicely. I also removed the throttle body from the manifold to clean the inside of the butterfly because it was like tar, so I was also able to clean the inside of the manifold directly while it was disassembled.

 

When I was at the parts store, I also picked up a can of the old school, liquid Sea Foam. Reading the label said I could hook it directly to a vaccuum hose (like you initially asked) but I can't figure that one out to save my life! After all the cleaning I did the truck still idles like sheeeeot.

 

Ed

Posted

Hmmmmm, have you changed plugs or wires to see if it will idle better. There is also the IAC (I think that is the correct order of the letters) that part is expensive, like a hundred bucks for that little sensor. I can't remember if it can be cleaned. I know it has a pintel and maybe during cleaning you bumped it. I have the directions at home as to how far out the pintel needs to be and what the relearn procedure is. If you think that may help to re-adjust the IAC then I'll dig up the instructions.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.      
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
    • you might read through the info on gmupfitter.com for your truck, to find a good power source.
    • Melling I believe is/was the OEM on the lifters who explored this problem some years ago. The white paper they generated on the topic indicated two items of note when I read it. 1.) They only fail on the switch. Prevent the switch, prevent the failure. 2.) The majority fail due to deposits messing up the timing of that switch. Anyway that's what I got from it.    Mine have always been active, 195K+ now, and my oil maintenance is surgically clean.    Of course this assumes good parts. That is no heat treat issue or machining flaws. I get comfortable that these issues are in the rearview mirror by about 30K. IMHO naturally. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...