Jump to content

Attention ATV Riders!


99Silver6.0

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anybody here have one? I rode my friends 03 Grizzly and I was very pleased with how it handled and rode. Had ample power too. I just wanted to see if anybody had some input on it.

Posted

I ride with a couple of guys that have them. They sure love them.

 

There are also a couple of guys that ride the big 'ol Prarie 650s...Man, those things are bada$$. HUGE, and can still wheelie for a mile.

 

atvconnection.com has some pretty good forums for atvs...You just have to wade through the kids to get at the knowledgable folks. Although, that's usually only a problem in the sport quad section. The ute sections are usually pretty adult.

Posted

You may also want to add the Kawi. 750 Brute Force to your list as well. Awesome from what I'm hearing about it. Power and even more power to spare! The Grizz. doesn't stand a chance... Pending on your riding style, as Wing mentioned, you may want to also check out the 700 Prairie. It's a straight axle rear so it handles better and has a more sporty feel to it than the IRS quads. IMO Kawi leads the pack for Utes right now.

Posted

Polaris just came out with an 800 EFI Sportsman as well as a "Miliatary Model" now for sale to the general public. If I was getting a new bike I would look at these...

Posted

Between my friends and I, we basically have every major brand covered. You really can't go wrong with any of them. They're all pretty much great machines.

 

My buddy just bought a used grizzly. The previous owner did every available mod. you can think of to the thing, including a big bore kit. That thing is crazy to watch it wheelie with 28" vampire tires.

Posted

I rode the Kawi Prarie and I just liked the Grizzly better. But when it comes to watercraft. Its a Kawi for me hands down! What about Yamahas financing. Is it any good? I heard it sucked!

Posted
I rode the Kawi Prarie and I just liked the Grizzly better. But when it comes to watercraft. Its a Kawi for me hands down! What about Yamahas financing. Is it any good? I heard it sucked!

Its really no better or worse than any of the others. Just watch out for the hidden interest rates and make sure if you go with low down and low interest that you pay it off on time or early as their high interest rates kick in and the payments go sky high. :jester:

Posted

A. Sierra makes a good point. Read the fine print real well. I've heard horror stories where a friend was late on an unrelated bill. This effected the interest rate on his ATV payment.

 

Most finance plans from these companies are nothing more then applying for a credit card.

Posted

Yea I did a little reading today at a Yami dealer. Not gonna do it. Too much crap about their financing that I dont like. Ill go through my credit union. Better idea in the long run.

Posted

Ya Credit union for sure. They are almost impossible to beat on intrest rates. I bought my prarie 650 through the credit union and the rates were about 1 1/2% lower than the banks. I bought my motorcycles through the factory program which were 0 down 0 % but made sure I paid it off early because like hecktorx said when it comes due its like a credit card a high interest credit card. Hope you enjoy the grizz :jester: I rode one when shopping for a atv. I liked it but liked the prarie's power and handling better(personal prefference) :)

Posted

I bought mine through Suzuki financing at a 6.9% interest rate....But I paid it off in about 8 months....So now it's 0% :jester:

Posted

The Polaris one's were pretty high too, so on both our Sportsman and Ranger we paid it up front.

 

We also got the extended warranty on them which you should check out no matter what brand you get. On the Sportsman it already paid for 1/2 of itself when the starter went out.

Posted
The Polaris one's were pretty high too, so on both our Sportsman and Ranger we paid it up front.

 

We also got the extended warranty on them which you should check out no matter what brand you get. On the Sportsman it already paid for 1/2 of itself when the starter went out.

How do you like the Ranger? I've been eyeing one of those up for a while now. About what's the top speed on it? What's it like to drive it? When you bought the Ranger, did you compare it to the Yami Rhino before you bought? I've rode a few sportsmen before and I really liked them. How does it's performance compare to the sportmen?

 

Sorry for so many questions.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...