Jump to content

Just Brakes


dwaynefu

Recommended Posts

Posted

I took my wife's 03 Honda Accord to Just Brakes yesterday to get brakes looked at. Upon their inspection, they told me that the car needed to have the calipers rebuilt. I'm thinking no way. The car only has 30K miles on it. Then they run of a whole list of bulls**t and the bill comes up to $850.00. So I told them to just put it back together when they inform me that the 99.88 is already being spent for taking the rotors apart. But I thought that was a free visual inspection. So I called another store and asked what does the free inspection cover and they inform me that the taking apart of the rotors is included. When I put the dude from the other store on the phone with the guy from the store that I was at, he promptly tells me there is no charge for the inspection.

 

So then I take the Honda to the dealership, i walked away paying only $150.00 for a rear brake job because nothing was wrong with the front brakes. The calipers didn't need to be rebuilt nor any of the other bulls**t they were feeding me. So a warning to all watch out for these thieves. I then found this website this morning....

 

http://badbusinessbureau.com/results.asp?q...s&submit=Search

 

Beware of these leeches!!!!!!!

Posted

BTW, Just Brakes are being indited by the NYC State Attorny's Office for Deceptive Practices and had to file a public appology for this sort of scam. In Florida, they are also under investigation. Stay away from those scammers at all costs.

 

And incidently, there is no way that those guys had the rotor apart. On Honda Accords, the rotors are "Trapped," meaning that they are pressed onto the hub assembly and requires a press to remove and install them. Accord brake jobs are done with an On-Car Brake Lathe ONLY. So unless some monkey took the time to carefully press them out, they couldn't have had it off the car. They were probably just going to do a "Pad Swap," clean the calipers and charge you the $850.00.

 

Next time, unless the car is vibrating under braking, swap the pads yourself and save the $150.00.

Posted

What is really sad is that a co-worker came to me yesterday and told me about his conversation about his 01 Tahoe that was at Just Brakes. He rushed over and told me that I needed to get my Tahoe checked because Just Brakes told him that the pistons on the calipers stick and ruin the brakes on all Tahoes, Subs, and Silverados. He said he was told that there was a TSB out, but the dealer only puts a mud flap on (This according to Just Brakes).

 

He needed rotors, pads, shims, calipers and emergency brake shoes - $899

 

I showed him this thread this morning. :tear:

 

Cheers, Doug

Posted

It's not only "just brakes" that pulls this crap. I guarantee any franchise repair shop will try something similar with their advertised specials. I had a 65 Mustang that needed some exhaust work to get thru inspection. Before I brought it into MIDAS brakes and mufflers, I checked out what was needed. The hangers were like new. When the gave me the bill it said all hangers had to be replaced.big $$. I went out and crawled under the car and they were the same ones that came in. When I told the mgr he called the mechanic and blasted him for faking the bill. I told him, dont give me this bs, he wouldnt have faked it if you hadn't told him to! My rule is never go to a franchise for anything.

Posted

I have an old 1989 full size Mercury station wagon that I use as a beater. Took it to Jiffy Lube to get its annual oil change. They were gung ho to sell me a transmission flush, turned them down. I went to pay for the oil change, the girl behind the counter was going over what services were performed and she got to lubing the chasis and she said the chasis is sealed. I promptly told her it has 11 zerks and it needed to be greased. She yells out into the shop, the tech says, it was his mistake on the paperwork and the chasis was lubed. I get home get under it and I could tell the zerks were not touched. I called Jiffy Lube corporate told them I did not appreciate paying for services that were not done. Just makes you mad when somebody tries to pull that stuff. Another story, my buddy took his Honda Accord into the dealer for its 15,000 mile service and the Honda dealer told him he needed new plugs and wires. So its not just the franchise service places that you have to watch out for.

Posted

Sort of like the 4Wheel Parts thread. Very dependant on who runs the shop. The Just Brakes here in Colorado Springs do great work and are inexpensive. It is a franchise, so the owner will dictate a large percentage of how it operates and treats customers.

 

The owner here personally drove my truck, made adjustments, and didn't charge anything.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...