Jump to content

Dealer Programming of Factory Nav System

Depewtee

By Depewtee
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

Depewtee Enthusiast

Depewtee

Posted
Posted

I purchased a factory Navigation Radio off of eBay for my 2004 Yukon Denali XL. I was told the unit came out of a 2003 Hummer H2. It appears to be in very good condition - plastic was still on the screen and everything about it looks "new." I installed the radio and a GPS antenna. The unit powered up and the Theft-lock activated as expected. I took it to my local GMC dealer the next day and, after keeping the truck all day, they managed to unlock the Theft-lcok; however, there was no sound playing through the speakers.

 

Anyway... they charged me $70.00 and sent me on my way. They told me that the Nav unit was not compatible with my truck and because I bought it "over the Internet" they would not warranty it (why they wanted to warranty it I do not know, because everything but the sound worked). The next day I decided to plug a set of headphones into the rear seat headphone jacks and they worked fine. Everything works, but no sound from the speakers.

 

I read somewhere that this was a programming function at the dealer. Basically, different type vehicles have different speaker configurations and thus are programmed with different codes. My dealer told me they "tried every code", but none of them worked.

 

Does anyone know what I need to advise my dealer so that the Nav unit can be programmed properly? Or, am I fighting a losing battle and they are correct in the fact that the radio is not compatible with my truck.

 

Any help is appreciated,

Brian

Depewtee Enthusiast

Depewtee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
swap a couple wires around, and add the Luxury AMP, and you will be good to go.  Have a read at this.  This is my truck, and i did the same thing you want to do, i even added the 6 disk changer to the console.  I will have a few of these AMPs on Ebay by tomorrow night.  If your interested in one, email me and  i will send you the link when they go up......

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=28030

 

 

 

 

Linda, Thanks for the reply. I already have the six disc changer and it is my understanding that I already have the luxury amp. Isn't it true that all Denalis have the luxury amp?

Thanks, Brian

linda Enthusiast

linda

Posted
Posted

The use of the word "ALL" is something i dont like to use. With GM, you just dont know. However, have a look at the sticker in the glove compartment and look for codes...RPO Y91/UM8. If you see those, you have the right AMP. There have been plenty of reports of simply hooking the tech II up to the AMP and reading/writing is enough to cause failure. This is why GM is switching out all its radios to non-LUX, for less programming problems. I would think that if you had the luxury AMP, that it would have had sound when the theftlock was removed. Only the base AMPs seem to report the errors your having. Take a look in the glove box and see what you have.

sperry Enthusiast

sperry

Posted
Posted

It should have, if it is correct, however they do weird things outfitting Lux vehicles that SHOULD have the lux amp, with the crap amp instead. I've heard of suburbans and Silverados with Lux amps in them! (A Delphi service center tech told me that).

 

Did they use document 1129839 ? If not, have them access and print it. Or at least try this text.

 

It's NOT a TIS-programmed Item. it just needs a properly-updated Tech2. If they try the terminal hook-up routine, they're doing it wrong.

 

Audio Amplifier Setup:

 

For the Bose Amplifier (UQ7, w/Y91). Complete the following procedure.

 

1. Turn the ignition ON, engine OFF

2. At the Main Menu screen, select Diagnostics.

3. At the Vehicle Identification screen, select the following options:

A. Model Year

B. LD Trk, MPV, Incomplete

4. At the System Selection Menu screen, select Body.

5. At the Vehicle Identification screen, select the following options:

A. C or K(Platform type) <- In this case, select your vehicle, no subs needed.

B. Select the appropriate HVAC system:

* CJ2 Dual Zone HVAC, Auto

* CJ3 Dual Zone HVAC, Manual

6. Select Uplevel Radio.

7. At the Body screen, select Amplifier.

8. Select Special Functions.

9. At the Special Functions screen, select Recalibration.

10. Select the appropriate body style/vehicle type.

11. Press the Setup Module key.

12. Verify the scan tool displays “Procedure in Progress.”

13. When the calibration ends press EXIT on the scan tool.

14. Cycle the ignition. Setup is complete.

 

If you don't have the Luxury amp, the Tech2 won't see an amplifier at all.

 

If they did this and it appeared ok, the Nav HU may be for a dumb amp (even though you said it's from an 03 H2 and should be for a class II amp.) That's still a bit controversial but at this point, I'm not surprised!

 

$70 is the going rate but some dealer's will do it for $35.

 

Ask them if they followed this instruction document. If not, they owe you one!!

 

Edit: Almost 56 and still learning to spell. goofy.gif

 

Edit: A bit more concise...

Depewtee Enthusiast

Depewtee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sperry,

Thanks for the information. I looked in my glove box and the decal says that I have a Y91 amp. I will take it back to the dealer and see what they can do for me. I hope it works - the NAV is really cool.

 

Thanks,

Brian

Klaus Enthusiast

Klaus

Posted
Posted

Interestng. Be aware that NO 2003 H2s came factory equipped with navigation. 2004 was the first year navigation was available.

 

2003 H2s have the lux amp. Some time in the 2004 production run the H2s switched from the lux to the crap amp.

 

What is the GM part number of your navigation unit?

sperry Enthusiast

sperry

Posted
Posted

Bingo! You're absoluty on the money Klaus... (Thanx)

 

I was focusing on the amp. If 03's came with the Nav, Klaus wouldn't have had to hassle with it!

 

Your HU was likeley from a late production MY 04.

Depewtee Enthusiast

Depewtee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sperry, Klaus, and Linda,

 

Thanks for the information. Looks like I am out of luck on this one. Anyone want to buy a Non-Lux Nav unit?

 

Thanks,

Brian

  • 3 weeks later...
MYTOY2 New Member

MYTOY2

Posted
Posted
I'm interested in it... With or without disc? What do you want for it?

 

 

 

Depewtee:

I may be willing to trade you straight across .. let me know.. we both have what each other needs..

-let me know

-Tim

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • garagerog
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By garagerog · Posted

      Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Gilkey96
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By Gilkey96 · Posted

      Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though.   My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days!   It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there.   I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant...   End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished.   Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.
    • MORSNO
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By MORSNO · Posted

      Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...