Jump to content

Tahoe Stalling


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2001 Tahoe 2wd, 5.7L w/ 55000 miles on it. Before I take it into the shop for the problem I am having I thought someone out there might be able to give me some idea of what the problem is.

 

When I am driving and come to a stop, the Tahoe almost stalls out. :chevy: If I am turning in a real tight circle, the Tahoe does stall. It starts right up, but when turning sharp again, the Tahoe will stall again. It does not do this when turning at speed, just when making a low speed tight turn. Any ideas before I take it in to the shop?

 

Thanks for any help you can give me.

 

Mark

Posted

Clean the carbon from the butterfly in the throttle body. Pull the rubber intake hose off at the intake, front of the engine. Clean with carb cleaner/brake clean. Then add a bottle of Fuel Injection cleaner to the gas. The engine will start rough and then smooth out after cleaning. The whole thing takes less than 10 minutes.

Posted

All good suggestions. I'd try cleaning the throttle body first, since it's a maintenance item that should be done regularly and if it's gummed up with carbon it could block up IAC passages that are necessary for idle-up conditions when there is a load on the engine. If that doesn't work, you can use carburetor cleaner to try to locate a vacuum leak. With the engine running, spray around the intake and throttle body...if there is a vacuum leak the idle will raise when sprayed with the carb cleaner.

 

Another thing that could cause the stalling like you described is the EGR valve sticking open or a torn EGR diaphragm, which causes a large vacuum leak. Sometimes they stick open from excessive carbon, or just normal wear and tear.

Posted

If you do clean the TB/IAC, make sure to only use a cleaner approved for coated throttle bodies, such as the 3M stuff. Regular carb cleaner and especially brake cleaner is too aggressive and could damage the coated throttle blade.

 

The IAC pintle valve could also be damaged by the wrong spray.

 

Don't spray too much in. The TPS is at the end of the throttle blade shaft and if you saturate everything the TPS might stop working.

Posted
Don't spray too much in.

 

Don't spray ANYTHING in if you have electronic throttle control. Soak the rag with cleaner and just wipe it out. Quite a few stalling problems are fixed by a simple cleaning of the throttle body.

 

Another thing that could cause the stalling like you described is the EGR valve sticking open or a torn EGR diaphragm, which causes a large vacuum leak.

Vacuum operated EGR's haven't been used for years though even the electronically controlled ones could possible stick. See that a LOT on the older 4.3 S trucks, but have never seen it on the C/K's.

 

BTW, never saw a 2001 Tahoe with a 5.7 in it.

Posted
Vacuum operated EGR's haven't been used for years though even the electronically controlled ones could possible stick.  See that a LOT on the older 4.3 S trucks, but have never seen it on the C/K's.

 

BTW, never saw a 2001 Tahoe with a 5.7 in it.

 

 

 

Oh yea, that's right. Actually, if there was an EGR problem, the PCM should pick up on it anyway...isn't there a code for EGR position or something? Thanks for the correction GM-Tech :thumbs:

Posted
Oh yea, that's right. Actually, if there was an EGR problem, the PCM should pick up on it anyway...isn't there a code for EGR position or something? Thanks for the correction GM-Tech :thumbs:

 

 

 

 

Yes, there are a number of DTC's for the EGR and the PCM would pick up on it if something is wrong.

Posted

That happened with my 2000 5.0L gas too. When trying to make a slow tight turn (i.e. turning at an intersection) the engine would stall. It would also stall sometimes when moving in stop and go traffic. I changed out the EGR valve and the problem has completely disappeared my engine already had 175000 miles on it then now it has 189000.

Posted
If there a topic on changing the EGR valve out there?  Is it easy?  Any idea on the part number for a new EGR valve.  Dealer item only?

 

Mark

 

 

 

Well, like GM Tech was saying, on your truck the EGR is an electronially controlled solenoid, and if there was a problem with it you would more than likely have a check engine light. Did you try cleaning the throttle body yet?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • On the subject of OLM, Gm's OLM tool may be more "informed" than others brands. I recall OLM's in mid-2000's Chrysler products literally counting down a set number of miles. That's all the OLM appeared to be.    I would actually expect GM to be able to explain the parameters that their OLM takes into account from a high level. No, I would not expect them to disclose their software coding or data analysis around their parameters.   So we're talking about two different topics, so to continue the subject on the other one, I'd be curious to know how much "standard particulate matter" in fresh oil is able to be filtered at first start by a fresh oil filter. How much particulate matter is enough to "matter"?   I.e. how much of a "lever" do we think this equates to (variability in particulate content, in fresh oils, between different makes/brands, some which filter less, and some that filter more).   We can say that more particles = more wear = shorter engine life as a logical statement and use that data with a little marketing to scare people into selecting a more refined/filtered oil. Using a similie, is this like deciding to forego two alcoholic drinks in a lifetime because we're worried about the potential impact on lifespan? Are there numbers which translate the ISO test results into a quantifiable increase in wear for a given engine/use case?
    • I'm pretty sure it doesn't actually recalibrate the speedometer it just changes the wheel speed sensor inputs to the computer. The truck still thinks it has stock tires.
    • I apologize, I missed this post, at risk of going off CURRENT TOPIC.   I'm not saying it is BS, I'm questioning how much information is being held back. GM is NOT going to spell out exactly every parameter in the algorithm. Liability, intellectual property, etc.    I'm not naive enough to believe that it is as simple as revolutions, coolant temperature, miles, time; are you?    I don't do irrational either, and boiling the OLM down to four simple values that I could code in an afternoon (I'm not a coder) is irrational - unless it suits your agenda to ignore it. 
    • Chris 21 I appreciate your constructive response. !!  😉😉😉   The 6.6 is gas.  Correct me if I’m wrong but by recalibrating the speedo you’re correcting the shift points of the transmission on these trucks.?.
    • That is a huge misconception.     Bigger does not always equal safer.  Modifying does not make it safer either, with exceptions.   Think of this.  Your truck in stock form is capable of emergency maneuvers, proper stopping distances, its handling is designed around the factory wheel/tire packages, etc.   37s and a lift?  Now you've affected your braking distances, handling and ride control.  You've raised your center of gravity higher.  Your front visibility is now obstructed more than stock, same for your rear.  Does it look cooler?  Yes.  Does it now work as good as it did from factory on road?  NO.       As for my mention of exceptions?  Say you had a sedan or crossover.  They typically come with all season tires.  If you swap out for a performance all season or a summer tire, you improve your car by lowering its stopping distance (better braking because of traction) and improve the handling (regular and emergency) of the vehicle.  That is an actually improving modification.  My old 2019 LD 1500, I ran UHP all season tires on 20in wheels in a factory offered size.  It improved all aspects of how it drove over the Duratracs it came with from the factory in the stock 18" tire.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...