Throwing a P0332 code

[Wingnut]

Truck runs fine. It actually threw the code in Dallas on Saturday, and I drove home (3 hours) with the light on, and have been driving it all week.

 

No knocking, pinging...Runs normal.

 

But I reset the code, and it came right back. So, I'm assuming that I'm going to have to replace the knock sensor (#2 bank).

 

The one on my 92 was on the block, down by the starter. But it's my understanding that I'm going to have to take the intake manifold off to do this?

 

Coooooool.

 

Any hints, tricks, tips....Anyone?

[GM-Tech]

Audible Spark Knock (Detonation), MIL Illuminated, DTC P0332 Set (Replace Rear Bank Knock Sensor and RTV Area Around Sensor) #02-06-04-023A - (Jun 14, 2002)

 

 

1998-2002 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette

 

1998-2002 Pontiac Firebird

 

with 5.7L Engine (VIN G -- RPO LS1)

 

1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

 

2002 Chevrolet Avalance

 

1999-2002 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL

 

2002 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

 

with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (VINs V, T, Z, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LQ9, LQ4)

 

This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade and Cadillac Escalade EXT to the Models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-06-04-023 (Section 6 -- Engine/Propulsion System).

 

Condition

Some customers may comment on a mild to severe engine ping (commonly referred to as spark knock), usually worse during acceleration and/or an illuminated MIL. Upon investigation, the technician may find DTC P0332 set.

 

Cause

This condition may be the result of corrosion of the rear bank knock sensor due to water intrusion into the sensor cavity. This condition is more apparent on vehicles in which customers frequently wash the engine compartment.

 

Correction

Replace the rear bank knock sensor and build a dam (wall) around the sensor using RTV to divert water away from the sensor. Use the procedure and part number listed below.

 

Remove the intake manifold. Refer to the Intake Manifold Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.

 

 

 

Remove the wiring harness assembly from the knock sensor.

 

 

 

Remove the rear bank knock sensor.

Install the new rear bank knock sensor.

 

Tighten

Tighten the knock sensor to 20 N·m(15 lb ft).

 

Install the wiring harness assembly to the knock sensor.

 

 

 

Apply a bead of RTV silicone sealant approximately 9 mm (3/8 in) wide and 6 mm (1/4 in) high along the outside edge of the ridge on the engine block valley cover around the rear bank knock sensor. DO NOT form a complete circle. Leave the rear section open as shown.

From the underside of the intake manifold, completely remove the rear intake manifold seal (foam material).

Install the intake manifold. Refer to the Intake Manifold Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.

Parts Information

Part Number

Description

Qty

 

10456603

Sensor, Knock

1

 

 

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

[Wingnut]

I like how it simply states "remove intake manifold"

 

That's not the hard part...It's the "install intake manifold where everything still works" part that always gets you.

 

 

Thanks man.

 

As an aside...There isn't a single auto parts store in town with the Haynes, or Chilton book for my rig...And only one with the part (on the other side of town).

[EastCoast HD]

I like how it simply states "remove intake manifold"

 

That's not the hard part...It's the "install intake manifold where everything still works" part that always gets you.

 

 

Thanks man.

 

As an aside...There isn't a single auto parts store in town with the Haynes, or Chilton book for my rig...And only one with the part (on the other side of town).

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Wingnut, I would not waste my money on Chilton or Haynes. Check-out Helms manuals. They are by far the best. IMO worth their weight in gold. I have been wrenching on vehicles for 25+ years, Chilton & Haynes tend to be vague, and in some cases dont contain info on all components/systems. I have a set for 99 Silvy if you need some info.

[RyanbabZ71]

Wingnut I can scan the helms manual instructions for you if you want

[Wingnut]

Wingnut, I would not waste my money on Chilton or Haynes. Check-out Helms manuals. They are by far the best. IMO worth their weight in gold. I have been wrenching on vehicles for 25+ years, Chilton & Haynes tend to be vague, and in some cases dont contain info on all components/systems. I have a set for 99 Silvy if you need some info.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Yeah, I know all about Helms, I've had them on the last 3 trucks I've owned. Unfortunately, I would rather do this sometime this year.

 

I could probably do it without a manual, but it's kind of nice to know the details.

 

 

Wingnut I can scan the helms manual instructions for you if you want

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

I would be forever in your debt Ryan.

[budhayes3]

While you're pricing out parts, find out how much the knock sensor sub-harness is (if there is one). Most vehicles that I've seen with knock sensors under the manifold have a sub-harness that goes from the knock sensor to the main harness. Because of the location of these harnesses, they tend to heat up and get brittle over time, causing excessive resistance and even open circuits. More than once I've seen someone have to pull an intake off twice to have to replace this harness the second time around (most often on Toyotas). Just a little cheap insurance.

[e.p.]

Hi;

I had the same code with my 99 silvreado. As I don't have access to a garage at this time I didn't really want to take the intake off outside in the winter. After I determined that it was a bad knock sensor and not a wiring or pcm problem I coupled the two sensor wires together with a capacitor and just use the front sensor for a knock signal. No more codes and it runs better than ever. This works great and is a lot easier than pulling the intake. Can anyone tell me why there is two knock sensors anyway?

 

Thanks

[Butch 02 Denali]

Interesting idea e.p.!

 

What size capacitor did you use and how did you wire it?

[e.p.]

Hi;

I disconnected the sensor wires at the harness on top of the motor and connected one lead from the cap to each sensor wire. Then I put the good sensor wire back in the harness and left the bad one unplugged. This lets the pcm think its receiving signals from the two sensors. I have about 8k on since doing this and it has set no more codes. It runs better than ever now. I used a .1 micofarad 50 volt capacitor. I have not noticed any knock and run 87 octane. I think this works better than the two sensors because now the pcm sees the values of the sensors as exactly the same and therefore no reduction in ignition timing.

[budhayes3]

The 99-00's seem to have a few issues with false KR (knock retard), mostly after a more agressive camshaft and springs were installed. I know first-hand...(check my sig, I dumped my 99 PCM for a PCMforLess custom tuned 02 PCM). I'm sure that there's some false KR on umodified vehicles also. I could definitely see how fooling the PCM's knock circuit would make your 99 run better e.p. Granted, you don't have knock protection now, but if you run good gas and keep your eye on it you should be OK.

[e.p.]

Hi;

 

I think that I still have knock protection because I'm still using the one sensor. Maybe not as good as having the two of them in use. All I can say is it works good and no more ses light.

[kkanakis]

Be sure and check the Connector under the Cable Shroud! It's just perfect for pulling-apart, if you tug on the cover towards the front. That'll blow the code everytime, and usually for only one bank most of the time. Only ocassionlly would it call both my banks.