Jump to content

Radio Antenna

sandshark

Recommended Posts

sandshark New Member

sandshark

Posted
Posted

 

:withstupid: I bought the AC Delco factory antenna replacement for my 1999 GM Sierra. Can I get some info on how to install it? The Service Center I use refuses to help me with this. :chill:

rfgale Enthusiast

rfgale

Posted
Posted
:withstupid:  I bought the AC Delco factory antenna replacement for my 1999 GM Sierra. Can I get some info on how to install it? The Service Center I use refuses to help me with this.  :loser:

 

 

 

 

I have an '02 Silverado and just had to buy the antenna mount for my truck. I figured it wouldn't be that hard to do, until I spent 2 hours trying to remove the old one, find where the wire entered the truck, etc. I finally gave up and pulled the old mount off the wiring harness (the base of my mount had rusted and broke, so it wouldn't hold the mast). Anyway, the old one popped off real easy, and I pulled the new one off the new harness and put it on the old wire. Viola! Best reception since I bought the truck. Looking under the dash, I wouldn't have been able to thread the new one without pulling the dash, and I sure as heck wasn't gonna do that! :chill:

99-2door Senior Enthusiast

99-2door

Posted
Posted

Pull the glovebox down and look on the right inner wall behind it. There is a rubber mat. Pull that out and you can see the antennae lead. Still tough to get but it will come out and you can put the new one in.

budhayes3 Senior Enthusiast

budhayes3

Posted
Posted

I replaced mine about 2 years ago...let's see what I remember. I remember cursing and bleeding...oh yea, here's what I think I did: First, remove the plastic cover on the corner of the cowl, it just pops off. Then I snipped the antenna wire off the base and taped it to the end of the new wire. Then, inside the truck, remove the glove box and rubber like 99 2-door said, and carefully tug on the old cable, bringing the new one through with it. You may have to find a way to pop the grommet first to make this easier. I believe that the service manual tells you to pull the fender or something like that...f that!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,858
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    mark2
    Newest Member
    mark2
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 648 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By newdude · Posted

      It is working as designed.  NHT and non NHT trucks have the same exact transmission cooling setup.  NHT just gets a larger radiator.     The transmission cooler loop on these is as follows.     -Transmission out goes into an oil to water heat exchanger (item #1 in the first illustration below).  This exchanger has engine coolant opposite the transmission fluid and uses engine coolant to warm and then regulate the transmission fluid temperature when its in the operating window.   - From the cooler it goes to a thermal bypass valve (item #11 in the 2nd illustration below).  If the ATF has not reached the temp to open the bypass (194F), it loops back.   - When it reaches 194F, the thermostat opens and ATF then flows out to the oil to air auxiliary cooler (item #17 in the 2nd illustration) at the front of the truck.  From there it goes back to the transmission.     Your only fix would be to swap for the PPE thermal bypass delete block which will open the loop to the aux cooler all the time.  It will STILL run warm, probably 170-200F, but that's as low as you'll get it as its still flowing through the oil to water exchanger.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      Slate Electric Truck

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  
    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Move further away.   Benefit of living out - none of our cars get short cycled, plenty of warm up time.   Curious how much time/temperature it takes to drive moisture/condensation out of the engine?
    • diyer2
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By diyer2 · Posted

      Switch a a 100% synthetic trans fluid, Amsoil works for me.
    • DustMcGrath
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By DustMcGrath · Posted

      First of all sorry, I know there are a ton of transmission temperature threads...   My truck is a 2025 LZ0 High (10l89 10-speed) High Country with NHT max trailering package. The NHT package is supposed to have "enhanced cooling."   Normally the trans temp sits around 200. It seems like with any real stress it quickly jumps into the 220s (for example climbing a grade unloaded at lower speeds). I haven't towed much with this truck, but I'm concerned if it gets this hot unloaded.    I've tried a few different things to keep the temps down (tow/haul mode, sport mode, low range when that makes sense) and nothing seems to affect it.    I'm curious if others are the same behavior or if anyone has found techniques to keep the temps down. It seems like it just can't handle reduced airflow at lower speeds, even with relatively light loading.    Thanks!      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...