Jump to content

Tow Package - Trailer Lighting


nauteal

Recommended Posts

Posted

:D:cry:

 

I have had my 2002 GMC Yukon since it was NEW. The trailer lights functioned fine then.

I don't know when it was that they stopped working. The lighting setup I have is the stock GM tow package that came on my vehicle when it was new.

 

Just so you know, I have attached that same trailer to my 1981 GMC 1500 and the lights work just fine. So it is not the trailer.

 

Again the vehicle lights work just fine, but nothing at the plug going to the trailer.

 

My question is, is there a fuse inline somewhere between the vehicle and the trailer lighting kit or is there a real break in my circuit somewhere?

 

Any help appreciated!

Posted
Yes, there are fuses specifically for the trailer lighting in the underhood fuse center.

 

 

 

 

I have not gone to look yet as to where this "under the hood Fuse Box" is, can you give me an idea of where it is located and if you have any specific information about fuse size and location on the panel of the fuse that may be affected.

 

As to the previous responders comments I have checked all contacts and wires located at the rear of the vehicle and they are fine. Yes I am using the 4 wire system.

 

The last time I recall the trailer light system working was when I rented a U-Haul here locally. I had to use some kind of special U-Haul adapter inconjuntion with the GM's big round plug.

Posted

If your vehicle is like my 5.3 powered silverado, then the underhood fuse box is on the driver's side of the engine compartment under a black lid cleverly labeled "electrical center"

Posted
the underhood fuse box is on the driver's side of the engine compartment under a black lid cleverly labeled "electrical center"

 

Who da thunk. :seeya:

Posted
the underhood fuse box is on the driver's side of the engine compartment under a black lid cleverly labeled "electrical center"

 

Who da thunk. :chevy:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most people say the only dumb question is the one never asked. For someone who bares the title "Senior Enthusiast," you would think you would be a little more curtious. Instead of a reasonable relpy I get a Dumb Answer. The only thing you were right about is there were fuses under the hood related to the Tow Package (And Thanks For Mentioning That.)

 

As far as the fuse box being labled. IT WAS'T!!! There were 2 boxes in that area of the vehicle. One marked Delphi and the other with a drawing of a pad-lock, an arrow, and I guess some graphic artist version of a "lightning bolt", but NO verbage be it English or otherwise.

 

The problem was resovled. It was the fuses.

 

Thank you for the help you did lend. :seeya:

Posted

Glad it got resolved, and you never know on these things sometimes, one would think things would be universally labeled or done, but you can't always bet on it.

Posted
the underhood fuse box is on the driver's side of the engine compartment under a black lid cleverly labeled "electrical center"

 

Who da thunk. :chevy:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most people say the only dumb question is the one never asked. For someone who bares the title "Senior Enthusiast," you would think you would be a little more curtious. Instead of a reasonable relpy I get a Dumb Answer. The only thing you were right about is there were fuses under the hood related to the Tow Package (And Thanks For Mentioning That.)

 

As far as the fuse box being labled. IT WAS'T!!! There were 2 boxes in that area of the vehicle. One marked Delphi and the other with a drawing of a pad-lock, an arrow, and I guess some graphic artist version of a "lightning bolt", but NO verbage be it English or otherwise.

 

The problem was resovled. It was the fuses.

 

Thank you for the help you did lend. :seeya:

 

 

 

 

 

Man...... you are going to have to get a little thicker skin to play around here. You got some very good free advice and just had to take a little ribbing. I think you did good.....be happy!!! :D

Posted
Most people say the only dumb question is the one never asked.  For someone who bares the title "Senior Enthusiast," you would think you would be a little more curtious.

 

The funny response was to the person who made the funny comment about the label on the cover. If you were offended by something not at all directed to you, too bad.

 

You asked...

 

My question is, is there a fuse inline somewhere between the vehicle and the trailer lighting kit or is there a real break in my circuit somewhere?

 

I answered your question. You didn't ask where or how do you replace a fuse. I don't automatically assume someone knows nothing and sit here and type for a half hour only to have the guy say, "Oh, I knew that." My time is valuable too.

 

Keep in mind that when you ask for free advice, you get exactly what you pay for.

Posted
Most people say the only dumb question is the one never asked.  For someone who bares the title "Senior Enthusiast," you would think you would be a little more curtious.

 

The funny response was to the person who made the funny comment about the label on the cover. If you were offended by something not at all directed to you, too bad.

 

You asked...

 

My question is, is there a fuse inline somewhere between the vehicle and the trailer lighting kit or is there a real break in my circuit somewhere?

 

I answered your question. You didn't ask where or how do you replace a fuse. I don't automatically assume someone knows nothing and sit here and type for a half hour only to have the guy say, "Oh, I knew that." My time is valuable too.

 

Keep in mind that when you ask for free advice, you get exactly what you pay for.

 

 

 

 

 

I am not trying to drag something out now that the vehicle problem has been resolved, but if you look at my 2nd posting directed to you. I DID ASK FOR SPECIFIC INFORMATION FROM YOU, once I learned that there was a fuse box under the hood. I asked about specific location and if there was any specific information related to those fuses.

 

You know as well as I do when you open parts and items up on a vehicle that you don't have some information about before you dig in, you or I can make a big mess. I was trying to educate myself to the issue to keep from doing that.

 

Used to be I could do a lot of my work on my own vehicle. 66' Corvette, '77 Skylark and '81 GMC Truck. These new vehicles are beyond me on that. As for getting what I paid for. With the new vehicle I feel we paid alot more than what we got. As to running to the dealership with every problem. I am not looking to drop $200 everytime I drive in there driveway and especially not when I thought there might be something as simple as a fuse problem.

 

We have had GM vehicles in our home all our life, but there is another new vehicle in our driveway and the manufacturer of that vehicle is displaying a lot more confidense in there vehicle with a 100,000 mile warranty verses a 36,000 mile warranty from GM. That will be something to consider in the future.

Posted
Used to be I could do a lot of my work on my own vehicle. 66' Corvette, '77 Skylark and '81 GMC Truck. These new vehicles are beyond me on that. As for getting what I paid for. With the new vehicle I feel we paid alot more than what we got. As to running to the dealership with every problem. I am not looking to drop $200 everytime I drive in there driveway and especially not when I thought there might be something as simple as a fuse problem.

 

 

 

Let me help you out so that you don't have to go through all this pain next time..... You don't have to spend $200.00 every time that you have a problem as simple as a fuse. You also don’t have to bother with people trying to help you out and them not doing it right.......just crack the owner's manual.

 

I think opening the owners manual would have taken a whole lot less time for you. You also wouldn’t have wasted all of GM-Techs time with your petty whining because he didn’t help you the way that you wanted to be helped.

 

Doug

fuse.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RichardRS
    Newest Member
    RichardRS
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 805 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Well that book won't sell many copies. Taking ones right foot off the loud pedal never gets applause. Funny really, It isn't that people don't know what to do...they just don't want to do it. But they will complain about it. About bad craftsmanship, about the cost of fuel, about the cost of part and repairs and mainly they complain that the solution while still possible isn't one they are willing to do.    I observe this daily. 'Gas cost to much!", they wail, while they mat it passing at 80+ mpg and scoot down the road like gas cost a dime a gallon. Then complain about the few that will lift and save both fuel and iron like they are owed and own the road.    Good thing they haven't an ounce of influence on my equipment. The rest I just laugh at. Stupid is as stupid does, right Forest?     
    • Today I filled up with 4.899 gallons of fuel at a cost of $4.899 a gallon. $24 bucks. 290 miles. 59.2 mpg. After my 4% COSTCO discount just under eight cents a mile.  
    • Howdy folks,   Recently I pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain (part numbers coming soon - will have to disassemble), and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash for the heating element.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But I seemingly can’t turn it off AND still no backlights on any of the buttons.    Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!
    • I'm about 1800 miles into my last oil change, and yesterday a message appeared saying oil life was at 77%. Not sure why it popped up but I think all of these electronics could be susceptible to solar flares or somesuch. I change my oil right at 3K each time, and that was the first time in 10870 miles that message came up. Strange thing is that it showed on the screen at all since I don't drive with that sort of info displayed on the DIC.
    • I’m praying that someone sees this and can help me out… pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But can’t turn it off AND still no backlights.   Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...