Jump to content

Heated Seats


Trotorx2

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all...first post though I have lurked around here for a while.

 

I have a '03 Silverado LT with heated seats. Lately the drivers seat back has started turning on by its self. It will turn on high then turn down till it turns off then starts over again. now it will turn on and cycle a couple of times then stay on med or low. I can turn it off but it will cycle on again. I'm not getting any codes but I don't have a scan tool that will read anything but engine codes. The book says to hook up the scan tool and connect to the BCM and look for codes. The book says look at the drivers seat module and the drivers door module. Is there any tech bulletins out on the seats? I'm going on a trip for the next month and the heated seat back is getting annoying. The passenger seat works fine can the seat modules be swapped? Can the module that controls it be disconnected till it can be fixed? My wife loves the heated seats but I hardly use mine as it doesn't get cold enough here. Any ideas? Thanks

Posted

I'm interested in this too as I've had mine come on at random. Only usually I remember rolling down a window a couple of minutes before I noticed they were on. I think the switch is sensitive, and it's in an easy location to get bumped. For that reason, I'd like to know if there's a single fuse or connector you can unplug to make sure it stays off when it's around 100F outside. Seat heaters don't do a whole lotta good then, heh.

 

If yours is flaking out, I'd first suspect the switch in the door and go from there. Push around the switch without actually pushing the switch button and see if it kicks on. You might simply have a bad switch...

 

I'm sure GM-Tech can add more valuable info. Maybe he's seen others like yours (ours?) that have failed.

 

Welcome to the board!

Posted

There are no TSB's on anything like this and no one has ever come in with the complaint of the seat heater coming on by itself.

 

If you had a scanner that could read the door and/or seat module, you could probably see if the door module was getting a heated seat switch signal even if you're not pushing the switch (this seems the most likely problem) or if the seat module is turning on the heater without receiving a signal to do so, which I doubt.

 

I'll look at a schematic later on and see what you need to disconnect to disable just the seat heater and not the whole power seat.

Posted
I've noticed in my 2003 Sierra they have come in by themselves too but I always attributed it to me bumping into the switch.

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the replys. I'm sure a stray signal or something is doing it as I can start the truck and set there and watch and the seat will turn on and start the cycle. I guy at work has a MAC tools scanner and maybe I can get him to bring it to work maybe it will read the BCM. I know when I turn it off the seat back heater I hear a click from under the dash behind the console. I'm pretty sure that is the BCM clicking.

 

Hopefully GM-Tech can tell me a connector to disconnect till I can figure this out.

 

It sure is a pain in the back on these 90+ degree days.

Posted
maybe it will read the BCM. I know when I turn it off the seat back heater I hear a click from under the dash behind the console. I'm pretty sure that is the BCM clicking.

 

Hopefully GM-Tech can tell me a connector to disconnect till I can figure this out.

 

The BCM has nothing to do with it. The seat heater switch sends a signal to the door module, which in turn sends a request to the seat module.

 

I looked at the schematic this morning and I don't see an EASY way to disable it. You could unplug the heater switch from the door module, but I'm not sure if other functions are in that connector. Besides, if it's not the heater switch that's going haywire, disconnecting it won't help.

 

You need to get under the seat and disconnect the heater elements. The wiring and connectors are not always easy to pinpoint so I can't give you an exact spot to go.

Posted

Okay, look for a six pin inline connector under the seat that has the following pin/color configuration on the male part of the connector.

 

A - BRN

 

B - BLK/RED

 

C - YEL

 

D - BLK

 

E - BLK/RED

 

F - BLK

 

The female side has different colors. Unplugging this will disabled our heater elements.

Posted
Okay, look for a six pin inline connector under the seat that has the following pin/color configuration on the male part of the connector.

 

A - BRN

 

B - BLK/RED

 

C - YEL

 

D - BLK

 

E - BLK/RED

 

F - BLK

 

The female side has different colors.  Unplugging this will disabled our heater elements.

 

 

 

 

Thanks GM-Tech I'll look for that connector. I didn't know how much the BCM controlled the seats just hear the click from that area...at least I think that is where the BCM is. I will try to get it scanned soon. How hard are the door and seat module's to change?

Posted

Ok more info.

Originally this problem with the seat back heater happened only when it rained alot. Lately it has rained alot here. It didn't rain yesterday or yet today and I have made a couple of trips and the heater has only came on once and when I turned it off it stayed off.

 

Now it is sounding like the switch in the door is getting wet and sending a signal to turn itself on to the door module. GM-Tech does this sound reasonable? If so will it take a new switch or can it be sealed up with silicon sealer?

Posted
Possible I suppose.  What, exactly, would you seal up with silicone?

 

 

 

 

I just got in from my 300 mi drive to work and the seat back heater didn't come on so it has to be a moisture problem.

 

Can water getting in to the switch or the connector cause the switch to cycle on and off?

 

I was thinking I could seal up the switch housing if it is possible...don't know what the switch looks like and maybe put some DC4 in the connector.

We have some flowable silicone that we put in the back shell of our cannon plugs that I could put on the backside of the connector.

 

Now that I'm at work and have some time to work on the truck I can get in the book and see how to take the door apart and look at the switch.

Posted

You drive 300 mile to work? That's one helluva commute.

 

Can water getting in to the switch or the connector cause the switch to cycle on and off?

 

Again... possible I suppose. I don't see sealing anything as being a help. What would need to be sealed is in the button area itself. Don't see how you could do that short of putting a sheet of plastic over the top the buttons.

Posted

You drive 300 mile to work? That's one helluva commute.

 

I work 14 day then get 14 days off. I work for a helicopter company in Louisiana that flys people and equipment to the offshore oil rigs.

 

I was thinking about it after my last post and I you are right I should try to find away to stop the moisture from getting into that part of the door.

 

Do you think the window seal could be bad or is there a moisture barrier that covers the switch area that is leaking? I would think with all the electrical componets in the door it would be sealed up some way.

 

Thanks for all your help by the way.

Posted

Since you're in Louisiana, I'll bet the humidity gets pretty well up there. If you run your AC, the door panel is likely to condensate water when the dew point is high. That could get in and compromise your switch.

 

That said, I'd also wonder if maybe you have a bad solder joint in the switch module. I've had to fix cracked solder joints in both my 4x4 selector switch and the rear view mirror.

 

If you're going to pull it apart to put on conformal coating, I'd suggest reflowing the solder on the connector pins (assuming there is one) before you cover it with the silicone.

 

Sounds like a heck of a fun job, although you may not see it that way.

 

"Now that I'm at work and have some time to work on the truck I can get in the book and see how to take the door apart and look at the switch."

 

When I read that, I thought "Now, there's a job I'd love to have!" :cheers:

Posted

The switch is not inside the door where it would be exposed to any moisture that enters the door. The only way water would get in the switch is if the window is open and water drips off the door frame into it.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can always count on greed to prey on ignorance and stupidity.    Friend bought a 2019 Ford Flex and asked me about using Valvoline R&P 5W30 in it. Told him give the miles on it and the fact it wasn't yet using oil that it was a good plan. He uses a Valvoline quick change shop for his oil service.   First they tell him that isn't the oil the OEM recommends. He told them he didn't care what the OEM thought. Then they floated the, "But it will void your warranty"    His reply was it's a 2019, there is no warranty and informed them their knowledge of the law was lacking.    Then they tell him 'But it will ruin your motor"!.    Mine to ruin he says. Finally they give in and charge him 150% the semi-syn price    Point it the brainwash is so embedded that even the service industry is drunk on their swill. The public is right behind them. Echoing the same lies on every forum and media platform. If the end goal is indeed EV then I'd say that ship is about built. 
    • Diesel hit $6.00 here today at the truck stop.   Payed $2.79 for E85 today too.
    • Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...