Jump to content

Transmission Trouble

elboberino

Recommended Posts

elboberino Enthusiast

elboberino

Posted
Posted

Ok, so I've been having trouble with my transmission. I took it to a shop in Phoenix, a guy who my mechanic has been using for 20 years, he trusts him and says he won't rip me off. Anyways, its back at their shop for the second time in 2 weeks. The guy said they finally figured out what was wrong with my transmission. He said the FORCE MOTOR was bad. Now, I don't know squat about a transmission, an engine yes, but a transmission, not a darn thing. So is there really a thing as a force motor or should i pick up some extra blinker fluid and some new muffler bearings when I go get my truck later tonight?

Bish Senior Enthusiast

Bish

Posted
Posted
Ok, so I've been having trouble with my transmission.  I took it to a shop in Phoenix, a guy who my mechanic has been using for 20 years, he trusts him and says he won't rip me off.  Anyways, its back at their shop for the second time in 2 weeks.  The guy said they finally figured out what was wrong with my transmission.  He said the FORCE MOTOR was bad.  Now, I don't know squat about a transmission, an engine yes, but a transmission, not a darn thing.  So is there really a thing as a force motor or should i pick up some extra blinker fluid and some new muffler bearings when I go get my truck later tonight?

 

 

 

 

I believe the Force Motor is a solenoid that controls line pressure.

 

HERE is some info on it.

shaink New Member

shaink

Posted
Posted

Actually I just went through this. Let me guess is your tranny shifting hard slamming into 2nd? Well I had a brand new transmission put in 10,000 miles ago and it started doing this. Took the truck to the dealer and they said this is wht it was. So they channged it and it was fine for 2 days then "CLUNK" it's doing it again. Now it seems to be doing something else screwy, if it clunks the ALT. gauge goes up to about 18 volts then back down to 10 or so. So back to the dealer and now he says its a bad Alternator that is sending to much voltage to the Force motor or Solenoid and causing it to send full pressure to the lines and hence "CLUNK" so $240 Alternator later it's not doing it anymore but it's only been 2 days.

PELICAN Enthusiast

PELICAN

Posted
Posted
Actually I just went through this.  Let me guess is your tranny shifting hard slamming into 2nd?  Well I had a brand new transmission put in 10,000 miles ago and it started doing this.  Took the truck to the dealer and they said this is wht it was.  So they channged it and it was fine for 2 days then "CLUNK" it's doing it again.  Now it seems to be doing something else screwy, if it clunks the ALT. gauge goes up to about 18 volts then back down to 10 or so.  So back to the dealer and now he says its a bad Alternator that is sending to much voltage to the Force motor or Solenoid and causing it to send full pressure to the lines and hence "CLUNK" so $240 Alternator later it's not doing it anymore but it's only been 2 days.

 

 

 

 

My truck is starting to shift really hard here lately. Should I have mechanic check the alternator or force motor first?

elboberino Enthusiast

elboberino

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I should have responded earlier but work has had me busy and I just come home and crash...

 

I got my truck back, $125 for the Force Motor. It's a tiny little sucker, looks a little like the solenoids in the tranny (had new ones put in as well, replacing the 2 day old ones for free!) From what I understand from the mechanic, the force motor gets the signal from the gas pedal about how much pressure your foot is applying to it. When it goes bad, as mine did, you can push in the gas pedal as hard as you want but the force motor doesn't realize this so it tells the tranny or something else that your foot is barely pushing the pedal. I know its more complicated than that but with the computers these trucks have now-a-days, its hard to understand it all.

 

The first symptoms I had were my shifts from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 were really hard and the car seemed to want to try to shift but couldn't the first time so it would try again and get it the second time. It happened almost all the time no matter how much I was accelerating. Down-shifting was no problem. That turned out to be a bad spring that connected something to some valves or something. I don't know anything about it but the mechanic put in a spring from a "shift kit" and before the force motor went crazy, shifting was great. Then the force motor went bad, or had been bad this whole time. I believe this also caused the solenoids to go bad. The problem I had was that the computer was not having this code come up on the computer so the mechanic had to trace the problem. The force motor even properly ohmed out but upon further inspection of it, they determined it was bad. Anyways, it didn't cost as much as I thought it would and it saved me the cost of a bad transmission ($3K rebuilt). I am happy.

 

I'd say, find a good transmission shop or someone who knows what they are doing and knows the GM tranny and take it to them, the problem could be as simple as a $25 solenoid.

 

Good luck finding out what happened.!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • GMCustomerService
      Damaged Left Rear Bumper & Left Rear Quarter Panel - Repair Questions

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Having bumper and other body damages can be very frustrating, especially as a result of a parking lot collision/bump. Our team wants to learn more about the damages to your truck so we can look into ways we might be able to help. When you get the chance, please fill out our support form with more details: https://s.gmc.com/support-request . A member of our team will follow up with you as soon as next available. We want to get you enjoying your truck to the fullest again. 
    • PhilB
      Gas Prices

      By PhilB · Posted

      Did you even read this article?   Even the title of the article says "U.S.-Iran Deal Doesn’t Mean a Swift Return of Oil and Gas Flows"   Remember, crude oil prices are based on FUTURE purchases by the oil companies.  Gas prices are based on FUTURE purchases by the station.  This article stated that many of the oil producing nations have to restart their processes to get the oil produced.  Then the oil has to be shipped to wherever.  And it doesn't get there overnight.  And most of that oil is not coming here. Check out this site:  https://afdc.energy.gov/data/10621   A graph will pop up to show where the US imports their oil from.  Notice that there isn't a lot of import from OPEC and Iraq.  Most of the US import comes from Canada. The US oil produces are selling their oil on the open market, which is why the US fuel costs went up.  So you're correct, the US oil companies are going to slow walk the price downward.
    • GMCustomerService
      Tranmission stays in Low

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Having codes and an engine light with no hints on what might be causing it is nothing short of frustrating. How long have these concerns been present? We want to know more so we can look into ways we might be able to help you. When you get the chance, please fill out our support form with additional details on your experience so far. A member of our team will follow up with you as soon as next available: https://s.gmc.com/support-request 
    • GMCustomerService
      Defective Brake Pad Wear Sensor?

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Knowing the life of your brakes is a highly important status to keep track of. If you suspect your brake sensors need attention, please fill out our support form with additional details on your experience. When did you last take it in for inspection? Our team will follow up with next steps as soon as next available. Please include your username and GM Trucks Forum in the form as well. Support Form: https://s.chevy.com/support-request 
    • teamjnz
      Stabilitrak conversion to Z71

      By teamjnz · Posted

      I just purchased a 2004 Tahoe with 148,******. I used to have a 2006 Suburban that had the push button Auto 4X, 2Hi, 4Hi and 4Lo. When checking out this truck I noticed it had push button but didn’t focus on it. After the purchase when driving home, this is when I noticed it was different and after a little research found out it has the AWD stabilitrak system. I don’t live in an area that requires AWD. I bought the truck to start a new adventure in life with off roading, now that the kids are all grown up. I purchased the truck knowing it didn’t have the G80 rearend but plan on re-gearing to drive on 33s or 35s and upgrade with a rear locker and still be able to tow when needed. Blah Blah Blah Anyway I know am thinking about converting the stabilitrak  to Z71. I know I will have to replace the transfer case. So now the information gathering stage is happening to see if it is worth it. Is the front AWD stabilitrak differential different when compared to a non-AWD front diff? Will I need a completely different front differential or can it be converted? What else should I be considering? I did see something in a video for GMT900 platform with removing the ABS fuse that disables the stabilitrak and turns the truck into a 2 wheel drive. Would that work in the GMT800 platform?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...