Jump to content

Replacing Positive Cable


Recommended Posts

Posted

Greetings

 

I just purchased a new positive battery cable from my local dealer. It has one wire more than the old wire I removed. (I don't think the old wire was OEM). The part number on the box is: 12157400.

 

I know the large one goes to the solenoid, the other longer one goes back up to the junction block on the firewall.

 

My question is, where do I connect the third wire? It is the same length as the main cable to the starter and is the same size and color as the wire that goes up to the junction block.

 

1990 C1500

5.0 litre

2 WD

 

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

Posted

If it was used on your model year it went to the alternator but i believe it was a later M/Y. Look in a 1990 Helms service manual to be sure.

Posted

Well.......I did check in my Chilton's wiring diagram and it doesn't show the third wire. I don't think it could go to the alternator because there is no way it would reach.

 

This third wire teminates at the same spot as the large one does down by the starter. Is it some kind of back up? Should I just attatch it to the starter on the large lug with the large wire? Or......should I just cut it off and stop being a PITA?

 

Thanks

Posted
Well.......I did check in my Chilton's wiring diagram and it doesn't show the third wire. I don't think it could go to the alternator because there is no way it would reach.

 

This third wire teminates at the same spot as the large one does down by the starter. Is it some kind of back up? Should I just attatch it to the starter on the large lug with the large wire? Or......should I just cut it off and stop being a PITA?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

A Chilton manual is a pice of crap it just gives you a general idea. Gm used the long one on certain years for low voltage. I believe it was 92-93 M/Y. It should hook to the alternador but if not cut it off. It only served a purpose for the assembly plant when the vehicle went through dynamic vehicle testing.

Posted

Thanks Redvett

 

I also have a Haynes manual. It is for model years 1988-1990. It too only shows the two wire cable. I think my truck was right on the border for some changes between 1990-1991.

 

I am the one that changed out the original cable and it had only two wires so I will just cut off the third one.

 

I'm the original owner of this truck and I have always been a chevy guy. 15 years as a construction truck and I've done almost no repairs. I have always done the maintenance on time and it sure has paid off, what a great truck it has been!

 

Thanks again,

Boyd

Posted
Thanks Redvett

 

I also have a Haynes manual. It is for model years 1988-1990. It too only shows the two wire cable. I think my truck was right on the border for some changes between 1990-1991.

 

I am the one that changed out the original cable and it had only two wires so I will just cut off the third one.

 

I'm the original owner of this truck and I have always been a chevy guy. 15 years as a construction truck and I've done almost no repairs. I have always done the maintenance on time and it sure has paid off, what a great truck it has been!

 

Thanks again,

Boyd

 

 

 

 

bmcduffy,

Thanks for buying your GM truck. As i stated in an earlier post the extra cable was used to satisfy production needs. This cable serves all needs for most applications.

BTW the Haynes manual is not the same as the Helms which is the OEM manual written by GM and used by dealers techs.

You understand the true value of maintenance but unfortunately most people do not. GM built K5 Blazers and 1Ton trucks built in the Flint plant in 1984-87 and they are still in heavy use today and as you know the military has high requirements on P/M.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,858
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    mark2
    Newest Member
    mark2
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 576 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • First of all sorry, I know there are a ton of transmission temperature threads...   My truck is a 2025 LZ0 High (10l89 10-speed) High Country with NHT max trailering package. The NHT package is supposed to have "enhanced cooling."   Normally the trans temp sits around 200. It seems like with any real stress it quickly jumps into the 220s (for example climbing a grade unloaded at lower speeds). I haven't towed much with this truck, but I'm concerned if it gets this hot unloaded.    I've tried a few different things to keep the temps down (tow/haul mode, sport mode, low range when that makes sense) and nothing seems to affect it.    I'm curious if others are the same behavior or if anyone has found techniques to keep the temps down. It seems like it just can't handle reduced airflow at lower speeds, even with relatively light loading.    Thanks!      
    • I'm at 105,000 miles on my baby Duramax. No issues yet. I hit 31 mpg's traveling through hilly terrain to a project in Colorado. I will buy another 3.0. I'm not concerned.
    • I'm glad you have 14,000 trouble free miles. Frankly though, that's a really low bar. A bare minimum of 80,000 trouble free miles as the norm (rare exceptions always exist) across the whole model year should be a starting point. Good maintenance habits should push these past the 100,000 mile mark with only the most minor of issues. Let's hope GM truly leveled up the quality game with these new engines and exploding engines under 50,000 miles are gone. 
    • This is exactly the reason our EV has consumed so much of my driving. I don't want to fire up a cold diesel or gas engine just to drive 2 miles up to the store. It's arguably terrible for an engine. If I'm not driving at least 10 miles and don't need to do truck things, the truck stays parked.   Enter the EV. It's immediately heating or cooling the cabin as needed (heat pump). An engine doesn't need to warm up or be driven gently. I can tear off in it with ZERO guilt. Move the car 1/4 mile from store to store and not think "gee, I'm short-cycling a lukewarm engine".   It doesn't idle in a drive-through. Doesn't idle at stop lights. (OK, neither would the diesel, if I let stop-start have its way, but I don't).   Even moving it out of the garage to wash it... HA! It doesn't need to be started just to move 40 feet. I have cars that I will actually put in neutral and push (no start) in/out of the garage or shop if they absolutely HAVE to be moved. My nice Camaros.
    • Some trailer plugs don't work. This one worked for me. Been using it for two years no issues. Amazon.com: Reese Trailer Plug Adapter, 7-Way Male Plug to 7-Way Female Plug, LED Lamp Out By-Pass, Plastic, Black, Each : Automotive
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...