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Posted

I presume that laser alignments are better than mechanical alignments (isn't everything laser better than everything non-laser?). My question is how much better?

 

The mechanic across the street from my office (i.e., really convenient) can do a mechanical/non-laser alignment. My tire shop can do a laser alignment, but it's a PITA to go there (out of the way, have to wait, etc.). Both would charge me the same price.

 

Is the laser alignment so much better that getting one is worth added hassle?

 

Thanks!!

Posted

I do alignments for a living and the best equipment ive seen is the Hunter DSP400. It use targets and digital cameras. It can be identified by red flashing LEDs.

 

It is very important to use modern calibrated equipment because it is very possible to make things worse otherwise.

Posted
I do alignments for a living and the best equipment ive seen is the Hunter DSP400. It use targets and digital cameras. It can be identified by red flashing LEDs.

 

It is very important to use modern calibrated equipment because it is very possible to make things worse otherwise.

 

 

 

 

We also have a Hunter DSP400 at the dealership. This thing is the balls compared to our old alignment rack. It makes it easier to do a good job at aligning a vehicle.I think you have a better chance of getting a quality alignment with one of these machines.

Posted

It's way more important that the machine is calibrated rather then laser vs non laser. I've never seen a tech that sets the alignment accuratly enough to need a laser machine. Most machines are accurate to with in .1 degrees. Honestly do you think your going to be able to tell if your caster is off by .2 degrees on one side, I think not in fact I know not.

 

Having siad that I do my own alignments at home becuase I found the shop I went to had thier alignment rack tilted .2-.3 degrees, which gave me different camber readings side to side of .4-.6 degrees.

Posted
It's way more important that the machine is calibrated rather then laser vs non laser.  I've never seen a tech that sets the alignment accuratly enough to need a laser machine.  Most machines are accurate to with in .1 degrees.  Honestly do you think your going to be able to tell if your caster is off by .2 degrees on one side, I think not in fact I know not.

 

Having siad that I do my own alignments at home becuase I found the shop I went to had thier alignment rack tilted .2-.3 degrees, which gave me different camber readings side to side of .4-.6 degrees.

 

 

 

 

You will notice if your racing and toe/camber is important :chevrolet:

Posted
It's way more important that the machine is calibrated rather then laser vs non laser.  I've never seen a tech that sets the alignment accuratly enough to need a laser machine.  Most machines are accurate to with in .1 degrees.  Honestly do you think your going to be able to tell if your caster is off by .2 degrees on one side, I think not in fact I know not.

 

Having siad that I do my own alignments at home becuase I found the shop I went to had thier alignment rack tilted .2-.3 degrees, which gave me different camber readings side to side of .4-.6 degrees.

 

 

 

 

It is important that the machine is in calibration. If you drop a non laser head, it requires the machine be recalibrated. If you don't, every alignment after that will be screwed up. I have seen this many times with our old hunter machine. Our new machine with targets is not like this. I have seen the targets dropped a few times. When the Hunter guy came in to update our software and check the machine I asked him if the calibration was out and he said it was perfect. This in itself makes the laser machine better for the customer.

 

You have never seen a tech that sets the alignment accurately enough to need a laser machine? That is because you have never seen me do an alignment. I don't care weather the customer can tell if their alignment is off by .2 degrees. I still want the alignment perfect when I am done. Everyone gets a copy of the printout from the machine.

 

How are you doing your own alignments at home? Are you using string and a tape measure? Or maybe a plumb bob and a carpenters level?

Posted

Hmmmm A whole bunch of racers I know use bubble gauges for caster and camber. I have yet to see alignment machines in every NASCAR pit. They change caster, camber, toe, ride height and spring rates all the time. No machine. weird.

 

Anyway my opinion is the guy doin it is more important. If his machine is out of calibration he should know it because his alignments will pull or wear tires. 2* of camber is the same on a lazer or a mechnical. Same with toe. A tape measure will do the exact same thing as a machine if the guy can measure acurately.

Posted
Hmmmm A whole bunch of racers I know use bubble gauges for caster and camber. I have yet to see alignment machines in every NASCAR pit. They change caster, camber, toe, ride height and spring rates all the time. No machine. weird.

 

Anyway my opinion is the guy doin it is more important. If his machine is out of calibration he should know it because his alignments will pull or wear tires. 2* of camber is the same on a lazer or a mechnical. Same with toe. A tape measure will do the exact same thing as a machine if the guy can measure acurately.

 

Exactly

 

You will notice if your racing and toe/camber is important

 

I do race, mainly autocross and open track days. I've changed my toe all over the map and more toe out makes my Camaro turn in better to a point, but I've run around with 1/4" toe out and 0 toe and the only difference I could tell was a hair more drag with 1/4" toe out and the car turned in a little better. Nothing drastic by any means. When you get up over 100 mph then it gets a little darty. But your talking a 1/4" which to a alignment machine is a ton! Any machine or even bubble gauge can be accurate to with in .1 degrees. I know you can't tell if one side is .1 degrees out even at high speed. BTW the camber on my car changes by .2 degrees total side to side when I sit in it and I only weigh 155 lbs. When your talking tenth's of degrees you are starting to split hairs even in racing. I fact I would be willing to bet that the soft OEM bushings in the front end change alignment settings by at least a couple tenth's of a degree.

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