Jump to content

6.0L / Allison Combo???

cmadz71

Recommended Posts

cmadz71 Enthusiast

cmadz71

Posted
Posted

Is this combo available? Does anybody have it? When I got my 2005 2500HD with the 6.0L/4L80E combo, I didn't think you could get the Allison with the 6.0L. I don't mind the 4L80E and has given me no problems so far but the Allison tranny is a nice piece. I like the available gear ratios in the Allison better than the 4L80E. What rear gear ratios would be available with this option?

Shawn T Enthusiast

Shawn T

Posted
Posted

Not available. It would be nice though. I think it takes quiet-a-few horses to spin the Allison 1000. They would have to enhance the 6.0L in the HD's to get the horses to the ground. Without the torque of a big block or diesel, I'm sure the fuel consumption of the small block would not be cost effective. I'm not a mechanic, so I may be way off-base though.

TieRod Enthusiast

TieRod

Posted
Posted

According to the diesel boys the Ally is RPM limited. They keep telling me that it will come apart above 5000rpm. I think thats kinda silly. I turn mine 5500-6000. :chevrolet:

vhato Enthusiast

vhato

Posted
Posted

The Allison 1000's Gear Box was built to support ~ 1400 lbt of *shift* torque and transfer 600+lbft during acceleration. According to GM, the Allison can safely do this at no more than 4850 RPM.

 

I was told that if you reduce engine torque, the transmission can spin higher. So a Vortec 6000 or Vortec 8100 could spin the Allison 1000 higher than 4850 RPM since they both have much lower torque outputs.

 

I can only clarify some of this information though.

 

The Allison does have a big first gear edge and a tad better OD. I would like one too.

Jake99Z71 Enthusiast

Jake99Z71

Posted
Posted
The Allison 1000's Gear Box was built to support ~ 1400 lbt of *shift* torque and transfer 600+lbft during acceleration.  According to GM, the Allison can safely do this at no more than 4850 RPM. 

 

I was told that if you reduce engine torque, the transmission can spin higher.  So a Vortec 6000 or Vortec 8100 could spin the Allison 1000 higher than 4850 RPM since they both have much lower torque outputs.

 

I can only clarify some of this information though.

 

The Allison does have a big first gear edge and a tad better OD.  I would like one too.

 

 

 

It would be best to use an 06 or 4th gen Allison as they have increased the rated rpm limit of the parts.

silverado3500 Enthusiast

silverado3500

Posted
Posted

I think its also GM's idea, that the 6.0 "doesn't need" an allison or a 6 speed manual. Personally I'd love to see them drop the 5 speed and use the ZF 6 on all their engines in a 2500 and up trucks, and give a choice between the Allison or 4L80-E on all engines as well.

 

I'm not 100% sold on using an Allison on a gas motor (partially for the reason mentioned above). The 4L80-E can handle plenty of power with ease.

Jester4736w Enthusiast

Jester4736w

Posted
Posted

All this talk about 5 and 6 speed... It actually seems nice to shift. Maybe when i upgrade in 6 years to a Duramax ill get the standard. Who knows, also seems kinda tiresome after a while.

 

What lasts longer standard or auto? More durable, able to take the punishment of beatings?

Ranger Senior Enthusiast

Ranger

Posted
Posted
All this talk about 5 and 6 speed...  It actually seems nice to shift.  Maybe when i upgrade in 6 years to a Duramax ill get the standard.  Who knows, also seems kinda tiresome after a while.

 

What lasts longer standard or auto?  More durable, able to take the punishment of beatings?

 

 

 

 

It depends on how much experience you have with stick shifts. If you've learned enough not to grind the gears 90% of the time, then the clutch on a manual ought to last a long time. Autos are supposedly not that good and it's apparent from the gear ratios they suffer some performance loss, but the Allison is supposed to be a pretty tough transmission. I've known a couple people with Allison/Duramax 2500s and they pull heavy equipment (like bulldozers and tractors) on a nearly daily basis and their trucks are still running good. Personally I like autos because I do mostly city driving and it's a pain in the ass to have to upshift and downshift every 10 seconds.

rcpd34 Enthusiast

rcpd34

Posted
Posted
Yea standard is no problem...  Primarily everything ive owned to this point was standard.  But by the sounds of it the Ally is a very rugged tranny.

 

 

 

I was also told the the 6.0 doesn't need the Ally. I love mine w/the 8.1 and would have bought it w/the 6.0 too for snow plowing.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 394 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...