Another P Brake

[6.slow]

Yeah, I'm full of questions....

2003 2500HD 6.0 4x4 crew Parking brake which I've always (in all my trucks) used everytime I put it in park, just don't wanna hold. I have been known to two-foot a time or two, but It was just for a second or two. Problem is, with a trailer on a hill, I don't want the weight of the trailer+truck pushing on my parking gear. So the Parking brake is always applied before shifting into park. Well the parking brake don't do much of anything. I think a cat would do a better job! I've heard this isn't the rear pads, but something that''s more of a pain in the butt. I need to have a good working Parking brake. Is this something a guy could do in his driveway or do I need to buy some beer and go to the local shop?

 

Thanks

[chuck16]

Yeah, I'm full of questions....

2003 2500HD 6.0 4x4 crew  Parking brake which I've always (in all my trucks) used everytime I put it in park, just don't wanna hold.  I have been known to two-foot a time or two, but It was just for a second or two.  Problem is, with a trailer on a hill, I don't want the weight of the trailer+truck pushing on my parking gear.  So the Parking brake is always applied before shifting into park.  Well the parking brake don't do much of anything.  I think a cat would do a better job!  I've heard this isn't the rear pads, but something that''s more of a pain in the butt.  I need to have a good working Parking brake.  Is this something a guy could do in his driveway or do I need to buy some beer and go to the local shop?

 

Thanks

 

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After doing all 6 brakes on my Truck I noticed that the E-Brake Shoe assembly inside of the Rear Disc was pretty much worn and it would let my truck slide on any little incline. I replaced it with new Shoes and adjusted the tightener all the way back and it holds rock solid now. I don't have a trailer to test it but, I am confident that it will hold. It's a pretty easy job to do. Just take the rear wheel off, undo the rear caliper and Caliper bracing then pull the disc off. Inside you'll find your e-brake...

 

Hope this helps...

[NONSTOP SPEED]

I had this problem on my 02 Z71 and it wasn't an issue with the pads they were well over 1/2 remaining. Responces from the dealer was its normal personally I think my problem was cable stretch but never did figure it out.

[asepgrad98]

Responces from the dealer was its normal

 

How could something be "normal" that causes your truck to fail state safety inspection

[chris_kucia]

Mine holds very well now.

 

I previously replaced the parking brake shoes. Then, a few weeks ago, I put new rotors in back.

 

To adjust them, I backed off the nut on the splitter assembly all the way towards the end, then I adjusted the parking brake adjuster to where there was just a slight drag on the inside drum of the rotors.

 

I then tightened the nut on the splitter until the cable was taught and verified that the parking brake wasn't any tighter than I adjusted.

 

Now the parking brake will hold it from moving if I forget to release it and put it in gear.

 

 

Mine's a 2000 Sierra 1500. The rear rotors have drums built into the hub for the parking brake shoes (actually, shoe). There isn't any access for external adjustement, so adjusting them requires pulling the rotor, which necessitates removing the caliper mounting bracket (those bolts are something like 140 ft/lbs and require locktite on reassembly).

 

The parking brake shoe is a C-shaped assembly. Unfortunately, the gap in the "C" isn't large enough to slip over the axle, so replacing them requires getting into the rear differential, removing the c-clips, and pulling the axles (although I've heard you can stretch them enough to get them over the axle without pulling the axles - I don't know about that though).

 

 

An interesting "feature" I discovered is that, when the parking brake is set, the automatic headlights don't come on until you release the brake. Makes remembering to release the brake really easy at night.

[Bish]

The parking brake shoe is a C-shaped assembly.  Unfortunately, the gap in the "C" isn't large enough to slip over the axle, so replacing them requires getting into the rear differential, removing the c-clips, and pulling the axles (although I've heard you can stretch them enough to get them over the axle without pulling the axles - I don't know about that though).

 

 

 

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Shouldn't have to mess with the diff to remove/install the parking shoe. It does, however, take a little finesse. If you start with one end behind the wheel mounting plate, you should be able to work it around the shoe to get it on. I've done it twice now on my Tahoe and haven't had to pull the axle. You should NOT have to bend the shoe at all either.

[chris_kucia]

Shouldn't have to mess with the diff to remove/install the parking shoe.  It does, however, take a little finesse.  If you start with one end behind the wheel mounting plate, you should be able to work it around the shoe to get it on.  I've done it twice now on my Tahoe and haven't had to pull the axle.  You should NOT have to bend the shoe at all either.

 

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Thanks for the advice - I'll give it a try next time.

[Bish]

Shouldn't have to mess with the diff to remove/install the parking shoe.  It does, however, take a little finesse.  If you start with one end behind the wheel mounting plate, you should be able to work it around the shoe to get it on.  I've done it twice now on my Tahoe and haven't had to pull the axle.  You should NOT have to bend the shoe at all either.

 

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Thanks for the advice - I'll give it a try next time.

 

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Hopefully, you won't have a next time with this If it weren't for the faulty clip design, I don't thing they would have worn out at all. Or should I say they SHOUDN'T wear our unless you drive around with your parking brake on.