5.3L engine block heater

[MS3DALE]

Heres the bulletin your talking about..........

 

 

Subject: LBZ, LB7, LLY, Service Engine Soon (SES) Light Illuminated, DTC P0116, P0181 Set with Engine Coolant Heater Usage in Ambient Temps Above -18 Degrees C (0 Degrees F) (Replace Engine Coolant Heater Cord #06-06-04-027 - (04/27/2006)

 

 

 

Models:

 

2001-2006 Chevrolet Silverado

 

2006 Chevrolet Express Vans

 

2001-2006 GMC Sierra

 

2006 GMC Savana Vans

 

with 6.6L Duramax™ Diesel V8 Engine (VINs D, 1, 2 -- RPOs LBZ, LB7, LLY)

 

 

Condition

Some customers may comment on a Duramax™ Diesel vehicle with a Service Engine Soon (SES) light illuminated on the instrument cluster. Some vehicles may have been previously serviced for this same condition. Technicians may also find the following DTCs set with no concern found.

 

• DTC P0116: Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Performance

 

• DTC P0181: Fuel Temperature Sensor Performance

 

Cause

The Fuel Temperature Sensor, Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT), and Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensors are compared to each other during a cold start to identify a concern with any one of the sensors. Engine coolant heater usage in ambient temperatures above -18°C (0° F) may trigger a false DTC P0116 or P0181.

 

Correction

The diesel supplement to the Owner’s Manual advises that the engine coolant heater may be used below -18°C (0°F) to assist with cold starts. However, a customer may wish to plug in the heater when the overnight temperatures are unknown. A thermostatically controlled engine coolant heater cord is available for the prevention of false DTCs. This cord incorporates a thermostatic switch that only conducts below -18°C (0°F).

 

Follow the steps below for the particular model year vehicle you are working on to ensure that the correct diagnostics are performed before replacing the engine coolant heater cord.

 

2001-2002 Vehicles

Verify that the updated calibration per Corporate Bulletin Number 02-06-04-058 has been installed.

Follow the published diagnostics in SI.

If no concern is found, determine if the customer is using the engine coolant heater above -18°C (0°F).

If the customer is using the engine coolant heater in ambient temperatures above -18°C (0°F), then replace the original coolant heater cord with the thermostatically controlled engine coolant heater cord, GM P/N 10369173.

2003-2006 Vehicles

Verify that the latest calibration has been installed.

Follow the published diagnostics in SI.

If no concern is found, determine if the customer is using the engine coolant heater above -18°C (0°F).

If the customer is using the engine coolant heater in ambient temperatures above -18°C (0°F), then replace the original coolant heater cord with the thermostatically controlled engine coolant heater cord, P/N 10369173.

Parts Information

Part Number

Description

 

10369173

Cord, Engine Coolant Heater

 

 

Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

 

Labor Operation

Description

Labor Time

 

J3523

Cord, Engine Coolant Heater - Replace

0.5 hr

 

 

 

 

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

 

 

© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

[ArcticJ]

WOW that was fast...thats it...

 

now I know it does us no good...if im reading it right, the recommendation to eliminate the codes is to swap the cord for a thermostat cord, disallowing the use above 0....

 

Im not looking forward to the upcoming 2-10 degree day and nights

[GMCStepSide]

I'm telling ya, cut that tumor plug off and let the CEL do it's job. Every now and then I get a CEL light but with enough start/stop cycles, it would go out unless we were having a long stretch of 5 or 10 degree weather. When I asked one of the GM Service Managers about the CEL light, he checked and said doing so will not hurt the engine, tranny, or anything...it will just be a minor annoyance for the driver. Heck, that's what they make black electrical tape for - to cover that minor annoyance.

 

Plus, I'm protecting my engine versus cold startups at 5 degrees day in and day out.

[dewfpo]

I modified my plug 3 years ago so that the thermostat is inoperative (heater comes on when plugged in) and I have never set a code. The only other thing to be aware of is the '05 and up block heaters are only 400 watts.

 

DEWFPO

[norsemanberg]

where is this tumor? I looked at the plug an i dont see it. Is it at the block heater connection?

[GMCStepSide]

Yes, it's a round black cap that is located on the plug in end of the block heater cord. When you go to plug it into an extension cord, you'll see it has a black cap on the top of the plug. That is the thermostat - assuming you have a 2006 model year and beyond. Your sig shows a 2003 1500...if you have a 2003, you don't have ther thermostat plug. Yours will operate any any temp...

Edited January 31, 2008 by GMCStepSide

[norsemanberg]

Yes, it's a round black cap that is located on the plug in end of the block heater cord. When you go to plug it into an extension cord, you'll see it has a black cap on the top of the plug. That is the thermostat - assuming you have a 2006 model year and beyond. Your sig shows a 2003 1500...if you have a 2003, you don't have ther thermostat plug. Yours will operate any any temp...

 

 

Thanks for the info I guess the heater is just burnt out.

[9r9r9r]

I just spent about $450 to have my local GM dealer install a "genuine GM part" K05 block heater in my 6.0L Sierra. It didn't come with one new. Checked it this morning when it was +2F and couldn't tell if it was working. Thanks for all your posts---now I know it probably wasn't. Nice heater. Anyway, I think the dealers up here do know about all the idiosyncracies with them as my guy warned me not to buy a cheap aftermarket one or the computer would get upset. So I have instead an expensive block ornament. Do all the manufacturers do this or just GM? Seems nuts.

[dewfpo]

I just spent about $450 to have my local GM dealer install a "genuine GM part" K05 block heater in my 6.0L Sierra. It didn't come with one new. Checked it this morning when it was +2F and couldn't tell if it was working. Thanks for all your posts---now I know it probably wasn't. Nice heater. Anyway, I think the dealers up here do know about all the idiosyncracies with them as my guy warned me not to buy a cheap aftermarket one or the computer would get upset. So I have instead an expensive block ornament. Do all the manufacturers do this or just GM? Seems nuts.

 

I bought a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser and installed a factory block heater. No thermostat on it, and no warnings for its use. I use it all the time, have had it plugged in for 48 hours straight and it and it never sets a code. It's only a 400 watt heater like the on on my 05 2500HD 8.1L. So I can't say if Ford or Chrysler's block heaters are set up like the GM's, but the Toyota's are certainly not.

 

DEWFPO

[9r9r9r]

It's -14 degrees F here right now and I got up early to see if the digital power meter I placed on the heater cord would show it's working. It's not, and the KW/hr meter shows it hasn't worked all night. The heater P/N that the dealer put in is 12586687 ($37.25) and the cord is P/N 15801284. The end of this cord doesn't have a "tumor" like the pictures posted earlier, but it costs $129.27 so it must have some type of control in it. These aren't the part numbers mentioned earlier in the discussion so maybe these parts are wrong, or it's faulty or it's not supposed to kick in till -50! Anyone know? It's hard to believe GM would make a block heater like this. Also, the owner's manual does state that the block heater will work below 0 degrees F, and you shouldn't need one above 32F but doesn't address what to do in between 0 and 32F. It would be considered negligent to start an airplane engine at +5F without preheating, synthetic oil or not.

Edited February 3, 2008 by Alaska06GMCSierra1500

[dewfpo]

It's -14 degrees F here right now and I got up early to see if the digital power meter I placed on the heater cord would show it's working. It's not, and the KW/hr meter shows it hasn't worked all night. The heater P/N that the dealer put in is 12586687 ($37.25) and the cord is P/N 15801284. The end of this cord doesn't have a "tumor" like the pictures posted earlier, but it costs $129.27 so it must have some type of control in it. These aren't the part numbers mentioned earlier in the discussion so maybe these parts are wrong, or it's faulty or it's not supposed to kick in till -50! Anyone know? It's hard to believe GM would make a block heater like this. Also, the owner's manual does state that the block heater will work below 0 degrees F, and you shouldn't need one above 32F but doesn't address what to do in between 0 and 32F. It would be considered negligent to start an airplane engine at +5F without preheating, synthetic oil or not.

 

It's hard to imagine the heating element itself being bad, there are no moving parts and it's a simple design. So, I would check to make sure the plug connector is firmly seated on the block heater itself. A PITA because of it's location, but if it's on, then you may have a plug with a bad thermostat in it.

 

If it is the blister kind of plug, then cut off the round part of the blister, pull out the little round, thin metallic thermostat and stick a small metal washer or a dime in there, make sure it is tight, put the rubber blister back on and tape it back together tight. Make sure the washer is making contact all the time. That will eliminate the thermostat in the plug and you should get current to the block heater regardless of temp.

 

Just use caution when cutting the blister, at those temperatures, that rubber is like hard plastic and difficult to cut. I first tried using a utility knife but that was useless, I wound up using a Dremel tool and that worked sweet. Good luck. BTDT.

 

DEWFPO

Edited February 3, 2008 by dewfpo

[GMCStepSide]

Welcome to the club Alaska 06! That's why the 06 Silverado gets parked in the garage at night and the 04 Malibu Maxx stays outside - I can plug the Maxx in at any temp and the block heater will work. The 06 with the tumor plug is a joke. You are right about starting a cold Cessna at 5 degrees but GM and the EPA must believe it's no big deal for our trucks. I too have an 06 Silverado, left it out for one night two nights ago and when I went out to start it up thought I was going to have heart failure as the truck sounded like it hadn't been plugged in at all. Granted, it only got down to 2 degrees that night so the block heater never even got a chance to do it's job. I've got it in the garage this morning and will be removing the tumor plug shortly after the Super Bowl or during if it becomes a blow out. You might check to ensure the other end of the cord is actually attached to the block heater...they may have forgotten to do it.

 

P.S. I had another 06 with the tumor plug, cut it off and other than a very rare CEL, everything was fine - and the truck ran much better on 2 degree or 15 degree mornings! Take that GM and EPA!

Edited February 3, 2008 by GMCStepSide

[9r9r9r]

Thanks for the info. I checked all the connections and now my ammeter says it's working. Good, as it's -10. Looks like when the ambient air gets to zero it will shut off. I guess if you use that block heater stock, you'd better have a garage. That plug is coming off.

[9r9r9r]

The power meter I've had attached to the block heater indicates that it ran exactly 21min 28sec over the past 24 hours. We've been below zero for most of that time and it was -18 at 6a.m. today. The thermostat in mine is pretty close to the engine (not on the exposed male part of the cord), and must turn the unit off after it senses something nearby getting above zero. That heater is a fraud and GM deserves criticism for sacrificing the engine to please the computer. I don't buy the EPA stuff--- nobody else does it. My guess is that it would have cost them a fortune to fix the computer software, so they opted to just jury-rig the heater cord to make it useless. Doesn't say much for Yankee ingenuity.

Then again, I guess they'll sell more engines.

Edited February 10, 2008 by Alaska06GMCSierra1500

[dewfpo]

The power meter I've had attached to the block heater indicates that it ran exactly 21min 28sec over the past 24 hours. We've been below zero for most of that time and it was -18 at 6a.m. today. The thermostat in mine is pretty close to the engine (not on the exposed male part of the cord), and must turn the unit off after it senses something nearby getting above zero. That heater is a fraud and GM deserves criticism for sacrificing the engine to please the computer. I don't buy the EPA stuff--- nobody else does it. My guess is that it would have cost them a fortune to fix the computer software, so they opted to just jury-rig the heater cord to make it useless. Doesn't say much for Yankee ingenuity.

Then again, I guess they'll sell more engines.

 

My understanding is that....... the OBDII systems on our vehicles need to be able to determine if the sensors are working properly. GM took the cheap route in determining if the temp sensors are within spec. The ECM checks the ECT (engine coolant temp) and compares it to the AIT (Air Intake Temp) and compares it to the ATT (Automatic Transmission Temp) and/or any other temp sensor on the vehicle and if one is not reading a comparable temp for a certain number of starts, then the OBDII systems sets a code for a bad sensor (whichever one it thinks is off).

 

When we plug in the block heater, the ECT will be higher than any other temp sensor, and after so many starts, it will set a code. I have removed my block heater thermostat a couple of years ago and plug my truck in whenever I want to and have never set a code. But I think that is because all my starts are not cold starts. So if the ECT is reading warm on my first start that morning, the sensors are in sync the rest of the day on all my other restarts. So I never have a series of starts where the ECT is off. At least that is my theory why I haven't set a code yet.

 

The reason I say I think GM cheaped out, is because the programming for what I stated above is super easy and virtually no cost to them. So few owners have or need a block heater, that GM basically left us out in the cold wind. Whereas I use a block heater on a newer vehicle and never have to worry about it causing a problem, so other manufacturers have taken a different approach that does'nt negatively affect the customer.

 

Just my 2 cents.

 

DEWFPO