Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

You forget, we all move down there to whatever hot spot you're living in and there's no one up here to keep the oil flowing. Once that happens, you'll see $8 a gallon gas, then you'll be begging us to move back up north.

 

As for shivering in my boots, no, I just want my fellow taxpaying citizens to know about this so they can make an informed decision before purchasing a GM truck. In the wintertime, the air used to get an unhealthful to breath rating that led to EPA fines that were paid by the taxpayers. Most of us don't want to have to fund those fines and I might have thought twice before picking up a truck with a block heater that is inoperable above zero degrees. Would have looked harder for a good used 2003 - 2004 model.

 

As for GM, they've got their own problems and mine may be minor but at least folks should know about this so they can make an informed decision before purchasing. Who knows, the next thing the Municipality of Anchorage will do is implement a tax on those of us with this screwed up plug as we're "big polluters".

Edited by GMCStepSide
  • Replies 117
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted (edited)
You forget, we all move down there to whatever hot spot you're living in and there's no one up here to keep the oil flowing.  Once that happens, you'll see $8 a gallon gas, then you'll be begging us to move back up north.

 

Actually, we're already beggin' the newcomers to go back. The place is overflowing with people, growth is out of hand, my $135,000 house purchased 10 years ago would now cost me a half-million, and trust me, it's not what I would think of as a half-million dollar home. Roads are crammed like never before. Thank goodness I'm only a few miles from work and the opposite way traffic flows in the morning and night.

Edited by GM-Tech
Posted

You would think there would be a way for the ECM to determine that the block heater was energized and therfore temporarily ignore the Engine Coolant Temp reading for that particular driving segment and not cause any problems.

 

DEWFPO

Posted
Guys give me a day or two,When I get a free minute (Been out all morning plowing the lot here at the dealership!) I'm going to call GM-Partech on this and see if they can tell me something (I'm not holding my breath though!)

 

Arctic,Your right it wasn't always like this,As I said in an earlier post before all my other trucks worked no matter what the temp.

 

 

 

Definately has not always been like this....................my 2000 Z71 5.3 has a factory block heater and the cord end is just a black 3 prong plug.....the thermastat B.S in there.....it works no matter what the temp is outside....... :D

Posted

On the way home I stopped at the dealership and was informed by the Service Manager that they were still attempting to get information about the block heater "thermostat". He said they had called the Fairbanks dealership and they were just as baffled as they hadn't heard of it.

 

I gave him this scenario. If I was living in Fairbanks, and it was -5 degrees outside, and I had the truck plugged in for four days, wouldn't it throw a code. He apologized as he said he couldn't answer it because he still didn't understand why there was a thermostat on it and the entire code issue.

 

I asked him about the wear and tear on an engine being started at 5 degrees above without being plugged in (or the screwey thermostat not letting it come on until it was below zero) and he stated there was significantly more wear and tear on an engine when if it wasn't plugged in. I then asked if GM was going to warranty the engines for those of us living in colder climate (I already knew the answer) and he simply stated he was waiting to hear back from GM. It's supposed to be -5 here tonight so you can bet I'll be out there freezing my a## off making sure that thing has kick on. I'm going to plug it in all night long and pour the AC to it...try to get a code tomorrow...assuming the darn thing actually kicks on tonight.

Posted

Instead of all this darn moanin' and groanin', just cut the d**n plug off and put a standard three prong plug on it and be done with it. If the SES light comes on, deal with it by leaving it on or have it checked and cleared every time.

Posted

Hi GM Tech and y'all...(I'm from the south),

 

I did cut my "tumored" plug off and spliced in a new one. Me thinks the GM guys at Fixit Center sometimes talk with forked tongue.

My question...When the light comes on, does my engine run in a different mode...or less efficiently like they said?

 

Otherwise, I can live with the engine light on...black electrical tape over the light should do it, ha ha. But my temperature guage also quit working because of the code issue. I WANT THE TEMP GUAGE TO WORK! Maybe plugging in a scan tool and deleting the codes every time you use the truck and an aftermarket temp guage...just run the wires over the hood to the engine. Sounds like a good aftermarket gimmick...err...tool....lotsa money....

 

Awww, quit whining you whiners. In my grandad's day, they used reindeer and a pack of dogs to get to work. Do you know what it costs to feed a pack of dogs? Next thing, someone will ask if they can have have a heater on their sled for only a 5 hour trip to work....sorry for the sarcasm....

GM goofed on this one!

Posted

Well, GM-Tech, I took your advice and late last night decided to cut the d**n factory plug off and install a quality grounded plug. At 2 degrees, the fingers got a little cold but I was able to get it accomplished in a few minutes. When I got up this morning, the truck started like it was 75 degrees outside (the temp was actually -9 degrees). I had it plugged into my timer so that it was only on for 4 hours. The truck started up nicely and you could see on the windshield where the warm air had convected out the defrost vents onto the winshield.

 

I drove it 90 miles, ran a bunch of errands and was back home with no problems at all. No codes or lights, and the temp guage worked fine the whole time.

 

IMHO, if you live in cold climates where it gets below 20 degrees on a regular basis, you need to cut the plug and replace it with a quality grounded plug. Then be sure to use a timer to help it get warm, plus the timer will help save on the electricity bill.

Posted

On my old Ford (no d**n thermostat) I use a HD timer and a TC-2 (+20F) Thermocube in series so that it ONLY comes on if it's below +20F and then only for a few hours. Works great.

 

Now, I just have to remove that d**n plug on my 05 Silverado.

 

DEWFPO

Posted
I drove it 90 miles, ran a bunch of errands and was back home with no problems at all.  No codes or lights, and the temp guage worked fine the whole time. 

 

There's actually some logic in the P0116 DTC test that tries to determine if a block heater has been used.

 

On the other hand, this is a type B code, which means the DTC test has to fail on two consecutive ignition cycles (in which the test runs) for it to turn the light on. So you're not in the clear yet on the light not coming on. :cheers:

Posted

No sweat...I cut the plug off so it had a 12" tail on it thus I'll be able to replace it should I end up with the dreaded code. I figured rather than complaining about it, I'd work on a solution. We'll see if it works. Heck, if that's the only issue I ever have with this truck, I've got it made. :cheers:

Posted
I drove it 90 miles, ran a bunch of errands and was back home with no problems at all.  No codes or lights, and the temp guage worked fine the whole time. 

 

There's actually some logic in the P0116 DTC test that tries to determine if a block heater has been used.

 

On the other hand, this is a type B code, which means the DTC test has to fail on two consecutive ignition cycles (in which the test runs) for it to turn the light on. So you're not in the clear yet on the light not coming on. :crackup:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hey GMCStepSide...any problems yet...have you had the opportunity to use the heater a second time?

Posted (edited)

Not a problem in the world. Everything seems to be functioning as usual except I can hear that block heater run when I plug it in...however, I'm running the timer so the only time I hear it is when I go out to start it in the morning. And I've been using the block heater nightly - with the timer - since I cut the thermo plug off and replaced it.

 

Would I do this again - you bet as it hasn't seemed to affect anything. I've gone through roughly 15 start/shut down cycles and no light, nothing. And the temp gauge has worked consistently.

 

By the way, I did get a message back from the Municipality of Anchorage I/M Program Administrator...it read -

 

Thank you for sharing this information. I will have our office research this issue and we will pass our findings on to all of our I/M licensed mechanics and facilities.

 

Who knows, perhaps the Muni will be recommended everyone in Anchorage driving an 05 or new GM truck cut the plug off and use a timer....we'll see. But it worked fine for me! :crackup:

Edited by GMCStepSide
Posted
You forget, we all move down there to whatever hot spot you're living in and there's no one up here to keep the oil flowing.  Once that happens, you'll see $8 a gallon gas, then you'll be begging us to move back up north.

 

Actually, we're already beggin' the newcomers to go back. The place is overflowing with people, growth is out of hand, my $135,000 house purchased 10 years ago would now cost me a half-million, and trust me, it's not what I would think of as a half-million dollar home. Roads are crammed like never before. Thank goodness I'm only a few miles from work and the opposite way traffic flows in the morning and night.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

That's so true - I just came back from 4 days in Bonita Springs. S.Tamiami Trail s. of Coconut Road is contruction hell - I saw it back in September and they're still at it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,937
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Reyben
    Newest Member
    Reyben
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 581 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can you sample the pooled liquid, enough to confirm it is oil?   ...That its not fuel or coolant.   Also, make sure combustion gases aren't entering the cooling system.   Simply put, either oil being pushed up past the rings (this really isn't possible), oil leaking past the head gasket, oil leaking past the valve, oil entering through the intake air path. If none of this is likely - it may not be oil.   What could be likely is the fuel injector leaking down. A puddle of gas would still smoke and rough idle. (Same cylinder has the same problem after injector replacement?)   What is the crank time first thing in the morning, when the puddle would be present? Does it seem like the high pressure fuel pump needs an extra second or two to rebuild the pressure that injector 8 may have let bleed off? Check the fuel pressure via a scanner prior to starting the engine.    
    • Good information!  I didn't know about the dementia aspect and asked for a general for my second knee. I'd heard that recovery room time is usually shorter with a general.   The anesthesiologist talked me out of it and I had the spinal.  Inconvenience and/or discomfort is a small price to pay for reduced risk!
    • This is for those over 70 years of age contemplating joint replacement surgery involving general anesthesia. Even some 55 yrs. ago when I took my pharmacology class the dangers of developing dementia in the elderly that had general anesthesia were beginning to be recognized. Over the years there has been some refinement in the cautionary warnings, avoid general anesthesia if possible if you've had close to 10 priors, especially over the age of 70 and/or a family history of dementia. I'm not including the twilight anesthesia induced by propofol often used in cytoscopies or colonscopies. Seriously think about seeing a neurologist and undergo cognitive testing before proceeding if any of those criteria apply to you. Spinal anesthesia may be an option in some cases. I'm in the above camp and although I could use a new right knee, I get fidgety according to a prior orthopedic surgeon when the bone saw spools up or maybe it was the smell of saw blade meeting bone, anyhow I may have one general anesthesia left in me which I will pocket for now and I'm choosing mind over mobility, anyway where did I leave my damn cane!
    • We understand your frustrations with your auto start/stop, fuel gauge and cruise control concerns since your latest update, @LarT-26. You mentioned getting repairs completed, however, have your concerns been resolved? If not, we would like to learn more so we may explore the best path of assistance moving forward alongside your local dealership. When you have a moment, please visit: https://s.gmc.com/support-request and complete the request form with all pertinent details. This will help us to better understand your concern and ensure that it is routed correctly. We will keep an eye out for your outreach.
    • We understand your frustrations with being unable to open your Sierra’s top inner tailgate, @smitty81503. Your concerns are frustrating, and we would like the opportunity to explore the best path of assistance to pursue their resolutions. There are many different factors that could be the root cause of vehicle concerns, and we handle each one on a case-by-case basis. When you have a moment, please visit: https://s.gmc.com/support-request and complete the request form with all pertinent details. This will help us to better understand your concern and ensure that it is routed correctly. We will keep an eye out for your outreach.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...