Dealer won't fix problem

bdan68 · March 16, 2002

My 2002 Silverado has had a problem with the steering from almost the beginning. I believe it was only the third day after I bought it that I went deer hunting. I took my uncle out who is handicapped, so we were driving around in the hills on some rough gravel and dirt roads looking for a deer. Well after a while I started getting a terrible clunking/rattling sound and a vibration out of the steering column. Even my uncle sitting in the passenger seat could hear it. I was sure I knew what it was as my previous truck (2000 Silverado) had the same problem, and it turned out to be a bad intermediate steering shaft, which the dealer replaced. Well after a few hours the vibration and rattle stopped. I now have over 10,000 miles on the truck, and it the problem still hasn't come back like it was that day. There is a slight vibration in the steering wheel that I can feel mostly when going around a curve on a rough road. If I hadn't had the more serious rattle/vibration previously I probably wouldn't think anything of it, but I'm thinking that eventually it will get worse. Anyway, I took it in to the dealer the other day and told them the story. I left it there all day and when I picked it up they had done nothing. They had driven it a couple of miles and told me the vibration is coming from my front tires (they're not stock.) Don't you guys think they should have at least lubed it (like I've read on here is what they are doing to correct the problem)? Should I complain to Chevy or just take it back to the dealer and ask them to look at it again? I just want it fixed before the warranty is up, which with as many miles as a drive will be up in one more year. I just don't understand how it could have been as bad as it was that first time, and then just magically fixed itself? What do you guys think I should do?

MountaineerTom · March 16, 2002

I'd take it back and ask them do do something. Talk with the Service Manager and tell them you know there used to be a TSB that called for replacing the intermediate shaft, and have heard there is now one to at least lube it. If they refuse to do that, ask them right then for the phone number to GM customer service. Sometimes it gets the ball rolling in your favor. At least it did for me once.

Good luck

obyone · March 17, 2002

The latest TSB out for the intermediate shaft calls for greasing of the shaft and not replacing.

IF you're up against a stone wall, perhaps you should try another dealer.

Roofer · March 17, 2002

bdan68~ what size/brand tires do you have? Mine has done it since I put the tires on and my dealer won't fix it either, but I did have the steering shaft replaced. They said it is because the tires are out of balance. I had the tires balanced three times and they don't seem to balance out right. The dealer says it is because there are no weights on the outside of the rim, and nobody will put the weights out there. I personally think it is the tires. I have heard of lots of BFG's being out of round, especially 285's. They just don't balance out. I am still deciding if I wanna keep this truck, so I haven't invested any money in new tires yet.

BTW, when I get above 70 mph, they smooth out.

Also, it's not the rims because this is my second set of rims with these same tires.

tsbrewers · March 17, 2002

Bulletin No.: 00-02-35-004

Date: June, 2000

TECHNICAL

Subject:

Steering or Front End Road Induced Vibration

(Install and Reinforce Revised Steering and Suspension Components)

Models:

1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C1500 Pickup Trucks (Silverado and Sierra)

Built Prior to the VINs

Important: Canadian dealers require PRIOR District Service Manager approval to apply this bulletin.

Condition

Some customers may comment on a steering wheel or front end vibration.

Cause

Several components in the front end steering and suspension work in unison to isolate the driver from road irregularities and from road/tire induced vibration. If any of these components are not working effectively, it will affect the other components of the suspension and steering system. Tire and road vibrations may be transmitted to the passenger compartment and steering through the rack and pinion unit. Additionally, the mounting points of the steering rack on the front frame crossmember may be amplifying any road vibrations.

Correction

In order to dampen unwanted vibration from the steering wheel, the following revisions must be preformed:

^ The tires must be in accordance with Corporate Bulletin Number 99-03-09-002 published August, 1999.

^ The steering rack must be replaced with a revised rack.

^ The left front steering rack mounting point must be reinforced.

^ The lower control arms must be replaced with units incorporating a revised bushing.

^ The power steering (PS) pump metering valve must be replaced with a revised fitting.

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Parts Information

Use the following procedure to replace the required components. Use the part numbers listed:

Notice: All components listed above must be replaced in order to correct the customer concern. Incremental replacements will adversely affect the handling and ride qualities of the vehicle. All components of the repair must be in place before the vehicle is returned to the customer.

1. Raise the vehicle. Refer to the General Information subsection of the Service Manual for information on lifting and jacking the vehicle.

2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies.

3. Remove the front skid plate.

4. Remove the rear skid plate.

5. Remove the high and low pressure power steering lines from the rack and pinion unit.

6. Remove the steering intermediate shaft pinch bolt.

7. Remove the right and left outer tie rod end nuts.

8. Remove the tie rod ends nuts from the steering knuckles.

9. Remove the two nuts retaining the rack and pinion unit. Remove rack and pinion unit from the vehicle.

10. Remove and transfer the outer tie rod ends to the revised steering gear.

Tighten

Tighten the tie rod end jam nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb ft).

11. Remove the two long bolts that retain the rack using a pry bar to slightly move the position of the anti-sway bar. This will allow removal of the steering rack retaining bolts through the crossmember.

12. Remove the undercoating from around the left side rack and pinion mount with solvent.

13. Lightly grind the area around the left mount.

^ Extend the grinding area to at least a 101 mm (4 in) area around the left side rack mounting point.

^ Remove all underbody coating around the reinforcement plate in order to obtain the strongest weld possible. In addition, some area around the reinforcement must be cleared of undercoating in order to prevent the possibility of the coating "flashing".

Caution: The underbody coating on the frame will burn if exposed to the extreme heat of welding. The coating may ignite and/or flash suddenly. Avoid direct contact of the welding torch to the underbody coating. Always remove the coating so that sufficient area is free of coating for the welding operation to be preformed without risk of igniting the coating. Avoid inhalation of fumes from any over-heated or burning underbody coating

14. In order to obtain an effective weld for this repair, you must follow the welding pattern diagram. The most effective way of welding this reinforcement is to quickly tack the three sides of the reinforcement first. This method will keep all sides of the reinforcement in contact with the frame crossmember throughout the welding operation. If one whole side of the reinforcement is welded without first tacking the edges, the patch may warp. If the reinforcement plate warps, it will be difficult to obtain as accurate a weld. A warned reinforcement plate will also increase the size of the gap that must be sealed later in this procedure.

15. The finished weld must consist of four welded beads. Two beads along the side of the reinforcement (1) must be 80 mm (3.20 in). The bead along the lower edge (3) must be at least 90 mm (3.60 in). The final weld (2) should be a continuous bead around the center of the reinforcement to the mounting post on the crossmember. A correct weld bead should measure 120 mm (4.80 in) around the post. Let the weld area cool.

16. Coat the reinforcement plate and the bare portion of the frame crossmember with a self-etching primer. Allow the primer to flash off its solvent.

Important: It is essential that a primer coating and effective seal be created around the reinforcement. This creates a corrosion barrier for the mating surface of the plate and frame crossmember.

17. Apply a heavy-bodied seam sealer, such as 3M Ultrapro Autobody Sealant (P/N 08302) or equivalent, to all edges of the reinforcement. The P/N for the 3M Sealer is for a clear style. Any color is acceptable for this repair. Create a seal along the edges and around the center mount coming through the plate. A good seal will prevent moisture from accumulating between the frame crossmember and the back side of the welded reinforcement.

18. As soon as the sealer skins-over, you can apply an undercoating. Apply a spray-on black, rubberized undercoating to the reinforcement and the crossmember. Overlap the original coating in order to provide an effective corrosion protection.

19. Remove the high-pressure PS fluid line from the rear of the PS pump.

20. Remove the brass PS pump-metering valve.

21. Install the revised metering valve to the PS pump.

Tighten

Tighten the valve to 33 N.m (24 lb ft).

22. Install the PS fluid high-pressure line to the pump.

Tighten

Tighten the line fitting to 28 N.m (20 lb ft).

23. Remove the front upper shock mounts.

24. Remove the lower shock absorber nuts and bolts.

25. Remove the stabilizer link bolts.

26. Remove the right and left lower control arms.

27. Install the right and left revised lower control arms and nuts.

Tighten

Tighten the nuts to 145 N.m (107 lb ft).

28. Install the long steering rack attachment bolts through the crossmember. Reposition the stabilizer bar in order to allow insertion of the bolts.

29. Install the right and left stabilizer links and bolts.

Tighten

Tighten the stabilizer link nuts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).

30. Install the right and left lower shock absorber nuts and bolts.

Tighten

Tighten the nuts to 80 N.m (59 lb ft).

31. Install the right and left upper shock absorber nuts and bolts.

Tighten

Tighten the nuts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

32. Install the revised steering rack to the vehicle.

Tighten

Tighten the steering rack attachment bolts to 185 Nm (135 lb ft).

33. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles.

Tighten

Tighten the tie rod end nuts to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).

34. Install the steering intermediate shaft pinch bolt.

Tighten

Tighten the pinch bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb ft).

35. Install the high and low pressure lines to the steering gear.

Tighten

Tighten the line fittings to 33 N.m (24 lb ft).

38. Install the tire and wheel assemblies to the vehicle.

37. Lower the vehicle.

38. Bleed the PS system. Refer to the Power Steering System subsection of the Service Manual for PS system bleeding procedures.

39. Align the front suspension. Refer to the Front Suspension subsection of the Service Manual for alignment specifications.

Warranty Information

bluelab · March 18, 2002

If your dealer is not being helpful give GM a call. They have been very helpful to me in the past. Every time I get my truck serviced at the dealer, GM is sending me a quality service survey.. and if I do not respond they are following that up with a letter saying how important it is to receive dealer feedback. Hope you get things worked out.

bdan68 · March 21, 2002

Thanks guys. I filled out the survey and told them I wasn't satisfied. Just mailed it today. I will have my tires rotated and the balance checked, although I'm sure the tires aren't the problem. In a couple more weeks I'll drop by the dealer on a Friday (don't work on Fridays) and I'll stay there until they do something about the problem and if they don't I'll try calling GM as one of you suggested. I didn't spend $32,000 for a truck with a vibration in the steering wheel!

Roofer · March 25, 2002

I am taking my truck in today. I am over my warranty (54K miles) , but I am bringing this bulletin with me. I hope something can be done. Normally all I have to do is say "I think there is a bulletin on that" and they normally find it. I just wanna make sure they have the info this time. I'll post back.

Thanks for the info guys!

bdan68> how did it turn out for you?

obyone · March 27, 2002

Roofer

You may want to check that TSB out again. It is designated for 2WD trucks...C1500. They replace the rack and pinion...something that your Z71 doesn't have. Just thought I'd mention it before you took it to the dealer.

Roofer · March 28, 2002

Roofer

You may want to check that TSB out again. It is designated for 2WD trucks...C1500. They replace the rack and pinion...something that your Z71 doesn't have. Just thought I'd mention it before you took it to the dealer.

hehe, too late. Thats what the dealer said too. I read down and it said remove skid plates, so I figured it was for 4x4. I guess I didn't pay attention to what it replaced. Anyhow, the dealer didn't help me a bit. I told him just to leave it then and I'll come pick it up. I told him he may as well try to fix it though, because I am probably gonna trade it in to them and then they'll have to fix it anyhow.

Today I increased the tire pressure to 50 psi, and it helped a little. I'm gonna try 55 or 60 tomorrow to see how that turns out. If nothing works, I'll have to look for a new pickup or maybe just some different tires. I think my problem may be the tires.