Jump to content

Changed my oil today


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have to say... that is the most ridiculous oil change I have ever done! This is the first change on my truck. Got about 2700 miles.

 

Problems? Drain plug on the side of the pan? Filter placed vertically and WAY too close to everything around it? :D I could not believe it. The plug wasn't a big problem. It came off REAL nice but I don't like ths dieways thing. The filter though? I couldn't even get it off to change it. I REALLY want to change the filter but I can't get my hand on enough of it to actually TURN the d**n thing. I don't have a filter wrench so it looks like I'm going to need to pick one up... :rolleyes:

 

Any tips? This is sad... I'm asking for tips for changing my oil filter. My Z34 was never this difficult.

 

At least all I had to do was drive my front-right tire up on the curb to get under the truck. :cheers:

Posted
I have to say... that is the most ridiculous oil change I have ever done! This is the first change on my truck. Got about 2700 miles.

 

Problems? Drain plug on the side of the pan? Filter placed vertically and WAY too close to everything around it? :D I could not believe it. The plug wasn't a big problem. It came off REAL nice but I don't like ths dieways thing. The filter though? I couldn't even get it off to change it. I REALLY want to change the filter but I can't get my hand on enough of it to actually TURN the d**n thing. I don't have a filter wrench so it looks like I'm going to need to pick one up... :rolleyes:

 

Any tips? This is sad... I'm asking for tips for changing my oil filter. My Z34 was never this difficult.

 

At least all I had to do was drive my front-right tire up on the curb to get under the truck. :cheers:

 

 

 

 

 

Settle down Kalgorn. Go to your favorite auto-parts store, Autozone, Carquest, whatever, and buy you, what I call, for a lack of better words, an "oil filter socket" . It connects to your rachet wrench just like a large socket, and it will take that filter right off. You can also pour a little bit of oil in the filter since it is mounted upside down to help reduce cavitation. Also put a little oil on the seal to lubricate. MMM

Posted

I guess I got used to the 4.3L and how it is a little more of a pain in the ass to change the oil compared to other engines. I had the 4.3 in my 99 S10, and my Silverado has the same engine. I got enough clearance to get under the Silverado to change the oil filter though. ;-) For me it is much easier to take it to the dealer or to Quik Kar and let them change the oil and filter, and it costs about the same if I bought the items to do it myself. I always do the first couple of oil changes myself just to be familiar with the vehicle's layout, after that I get it done by somebody else. Just my .02. -Shoot2Thrill

Posted

I had a 99 S-10 Extreme for a couple years and always changed my own oil. I never had much problem with changing the oil in it, and it had the 4.3L. All I did was roll the front end up on ramps (the truck sat too low to wiggle under at all, and I'm a skinny guy), put the filter wrench on and plug a 12" extender into it, voila! no problem at all...sometimes all it takes to make the worst job easy is the right tool(s).

Posted

Actually, I like vertical oil filters which are easily removed with a cap type oil wrench. My Mazda 626 has one of those. I can remove it in a few seconds.

 

The worst vehicle I ever had as far as changing oil is concerned, was the 1992 Mazda Protege LX with a 1.8 liter DOHC engine. The oil filter was mounted on the back of the transverse engine and the only way to get to it was to use a commercial high lift, stand under the car, and then you had to stick your whole arm between an exhaust pipe and axle to get to the oil filter. The only kind of oil filter wrench that worked was the plier type with open jaws. And I always burnt my forearm on the hot exhaust pipe when I changed the filter because everything was so tight. Only a few inches of space to work in. There was no way to get to the filter from above.

 

On the other hand, changing oil on my '83 Mercedes 300SD is pure joy (except for the fact that the diesel engine oil is pitch black and that it takes 7 quarts of oil)). The oil filter is accessible from above and it sits in a metal canister. It is a cartridge type filter. You remove the canister lid secured with two nuts. Then you pull out the cartridge filter and all old oil remains in the canister, so no oil spill at all. This is about the best design I have ever seen.

Posted

HUH :rolleyes: Changing the oil in my 2006 4.3L Sierra is a piece of cake. You want a hard oil change, try my G35 Infiniti Coupe. It truly is a PITA to change the oil in that car.

 

On the truck, the only problem I had was trying to get the grease fittings off, so I could change them to right angles. I only was able to remove and change two. I'm not sure yet, what I'll do about the others. I'll look again on the second oil change.

 

Lou

Posted

If you cant get it off, you can always pound a screwdriver through it to turn it. As far as being a mess, try taking a 1 quart sandwich baggie and putting that on the filter befroe you take it off, most of the oil will fall into the baggie. Needless to say, after you coat the new filter's o-ring with new oil, just tighten it firmly about 1/4 turn after it starts to tighten up.

Posted
If you cant get it off, you can always pound a screwdriver through it to turn it. As far as being a mess, try taking a 1 quart sandwich baggie and putting that on the filter befroe you take it off, most of the oil will fall into the baggie. Needless to say, after you coat the new filter's o-ring with new oil, just tighten it firmly about 1/4 turn after it starts to tighten up.

 

 

 

 

Using a cap type oil filter wrench will get the filter off much easier than pounding a screw driver through the filter. If you cannot get if off with a cap wrench, you will not get it off by pounding a screw driver through it. I would resort to the screw driver trick only on oil filters that do not have hexagonal shape on the end to accomodate a cap type filter, if everything else fails.

Posted

Way back when I changed the oil and filter on my new truck and the filter can spun around the seam where its joined. Anyway I had to hack saw and chisel the thing apart and then make a tool to screw what was left out. That was a day long job. That was gorrilla on steroids must have screwed that one one.

Posted

I had a '98 S-10 with that motor. The first one was the hardest until I got a system. First, put the truck on ramps. I don't care how skinny someone is (I'm not), it just gives more access. Then, hold the catch pan up next to the drain once the plug is loose and just let the plug drop into the pan. Follow the stream down until finally the pan is resting on the ground. Then move the pan as needed. Once the oil is drained, replace the plug and then work on the filter. That way you don't have both dripping at the same time. Any oil filter wrench will work to remove this. Once off, wipe the area around the oil filter until clean. Coat the seal with a little new oil and replace. Refill.

Oh, for future reference, as long as you coat the new seal with oil and don't put the filter on too tight, you should be able to get it with your bare hands from here on out.

Posted

Try changing the oil filter on the 8.1 with 4x4. It's ridiculous. Who designs these things anyway.

 

DEWFPO

Posted

Well I guess I'm most agrivated that I need to use an oil filter wrench to get it off. I never needed one with my Z34 so I'm partial to not needing a tool for it. My dad has one that you just put a 3/8 socket on to turn so I'm going to use that next time.

 

I do know to put old oil on the filter seal though. My dad taught me that when I first changed my oil when I was 16. Never forgot it. :dupe:

Posted

I was taught, years ago, rather than old oil, new oil or whatever, to put Vaseline on the rubber seal of the new oil filter. I do it to this day.

 

Lou

Posted
Try changing the oil filter on the 8.1 with 4x4.  It's ridiculous.  Who designs these things anyway.

 

DEWFPO

 

 

 

 

Boy, no kidding!!!! I never thought a big 1 ton crew cab would have an oil filter so buried that it would take both of my longest extensions on a filter "socket" to reach it, and then to top it off you can't drop it straight down! You have to slide it sideways over the top of the front driveline. I'm still thinking of putting on of those relocation kits on but I just don't know where I'd relocate it to. Only safe place I can find is in the engine compartment where the second battery would go.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I wonder what the price is out at the coast, Big Sur or other out of the way locations as I bet they are charging quite a premium over the in land pumps. 
    • Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...