Jump to content

More questions... Supercharger, accessories, etc.


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok, I have an 84 sierra with some sick engine out of a sprint car. Holley 650 carb, LT1 heads, rebuilt chevy 350 4 bolt motor (s this 5.7 liter?) from a sprint car aluminum pulleys, double pumper, 400 turbo trans, flowmaster manifold back, and god knows what else.

 

Q1. Can a supercharger go on a carburated motor? If so, what the most cost effective one and easiest to install? (I am short on money)

 

Q2. Is JC Whitney still the king of cheap? Is there any other companies out there selling aftermarket interior/dress up and novelty parts just as cheap? I need tons of interior parts.

 

Q3. What diference does a cam make, how hard are they to install, and how much are they to purchase?

 

Thanks all. If you have any input please feel free. I want this thing to be stupid fast but I am not that knowledgable on engines other than having the mechanical inclination to do anything so long as I know I am installing the right part. Its FAST when rpms are up and its dropped into second, but a dog through first.

 

Any tips or ideas are greatly appreciated from the gurus.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • That dog don't hunt. 😏   First, a 2025 with 12K on the clock AND idled for a year nonstop is false on it's face; this is 2026. You can do one or the other but not both.    Second, ENGINE HOURS are absolutely available. The rest is third grade math. Micky Mouse scanner he got out of a box of Cracker Jacks OR an ID10T error.    Third, if they ran it out of oil "Several times" that motor is boned on the first hit.    Does this guy think piling higher makes it stink less? 
    • That's interesting, I assume that would add to the cost of the oil but also I was forgetting to bring up the issue of the low tension rings allowing more oil past which in turn forces the cats to have more oil additives pass through them that wouldn't otherwise so they are creating that problem and of course its all in the name of fuel economy. Mind you the other issue would be the lack of additives that fight the formation of carbon within the piston ring grooves which turn the engine into an oil burner and with in this GM forums case is your average off the shelf Dexos licensed oil, meanwhile the other off the shelf oil being Valvoline's R&P isn't licensed and the only one that is which is that certain Mobil oil that came out recently ( its not even being marketed in Canada ) and only a fraction of vehicle owners are going to be using it out of all the other oils on the shelf or the quickie lube bay that meet the Dexos spec by way of actual licensing.    Also I suspect that its an easy excuse to pool the non turbo DI engines in with the turbo DI engines and design the oil to not have LSPI issues in the most demanding engines and short change the naturally aspirated DI by not offering a higher concentration of additive package they could handle and still not be at risk of LSPI.    I wonder if Amsoil flipped the switch just lately and did whatever packaging designation at the same time as I wonder what oil formulation I would have bought in May, of course I don't know when it was packaged at the factory vs how long it was in storage at the Edmonton warehouse. I know its been said at least in the past that the big players switch over to a reformulated oil but the packaging has not changed until they make that move as well so there is that cross over time where its a new formulation in a predated formula marked package. 
    • Hmm. A real reason to not just use the odometer to determine OCI?    
    • Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...